Dro

haha I was checking that out too

agree with everyone else, it looks great so far

Richard Paul

iTrader: (5)

We did the CF work in concert with a friend of ours. We made the mold and he laid up the CF. He used an innertube to set the fiber sheet. From a bike actually.
We have a plate that fits over the flange area and put the tube in from the other end.

The oil system is tapped into the engine by a oil filter adapter, then drains to the pan. It's not hard to do on this car. The pan is ez to drop and weld or braze in a fitting. A plate will be in the kit to put under the oil filter. From a fitting on the plate you run a hose to the blower.

The machined part of the front volute is for me to keep all the parts and jets in when I'm changing carb tuning.

Aseras

why not just go into the oil pan through the drain plug? You gotta clear the line ayways on a oil change, save a lot of trouble cutting holes in things...

Richard Paul

iTrader: (5)

Because I want to enter above the oil level. It may work the other way but it isn't really right. The line will not drain as fast at high speeds. Water seeks it's own level but it takes time and oil takes a little longer.

Idealy we will cast a new pan with a lower oil level and added capacity. Some fins on the bottom just for kicks and some extra cooling. Throw in some baffling around the pickup and you have good addition for even the NA cars. If you drive hard in the canyons consider yourself lucky when the level is even slightly low.

Just 'cause you don't see the oil pressure gauge drop in the curves doesn't mean it isn't. Why not? 'Cause you don't have an oil pressure gauge. Have you ever seen it read high when cold? Have you ever seen it move? That's because it doesn't, it always stays the same. It's not even hooked to a pressure sender. Have you ever had a car where the oil pressure was the same at idle? It starts out low then builds as RPM go up, right?

Fear not you always have the warning light. That probably comes on when your down to 10psi.

Don't blame the messenger, blame Mazda.

Aseras

Thanks RP, I'm well aware the oil pressure gauge is an idiot gauge...

Now get back to work! I need me some supercharger luvin

deppenma

Thanks for the info RP so it was a plug and vacuum bag process very nice job.


Can you send me your "friend" contact info My current supplier of CF is out of stock and does not truly know when he will get more in.

therm8

Not likely as of 50 pages or so ago. I wouldn't count on it, unfortunately. Oh well...[plug for Hymee here]

rotarygod

Why is that? With a turbo you want the oil to drain above the level of the oil in the pan as it will back up into the turbo and eventually kill the turbo's oil seals. How is your seal different?

Rootski

iTrader: (1)

How's far is the project from completion? and what additional upgrades will be necessary for the engine to be able to handle it?

Richard Paul

iTrader: (5)

Did I write that or did you go in there and change it??
I must be getting feable minded. I think the rest of what I said makes it clear that it is the same as a turbo. I don't think it was up there long enough for anyone to have built anything that way.

I'll go back and change it. Thanks for pointing it out, that means your paying attention. And I'm not proof reading what I write.


We are starting the install on my car in a couple of days from now.

Hymee

iTrader: (1)

Why does it have to drain? Won't it be under pressure anyways? Sorry for my ignorance - LOL!

I don't need to worry about that, as the blower has it's own gear box and oil reserviour.

Cheers,
Hymee.

Richard Paul

iTrader: (5)

You don't want to have oil pressure in the gear case just to force out oil. This overloads the seals and doesn't drain the heat away. Plus it foams the oil. The only oil you want in there is the spray from the nozzle aimed at the gearset. It lubes the gears and takes away the heat.

A luxury that you don't have.

Hymee

iTrader: (1)

OK - I get it now. I was thinking too much in terms of the turbo's bearings.

At least I won't be adding any heat to the engine oil!

Cheers,
Hymee.

zoom44

well our 2 oil coolers can handle the extra little bit of heat much better than your standard single cooler

Hymee

iTrader: (1)

I think the gear set will might get even hotter than normal from all that hot oil from the engine! LOL :D

Cheers,
Hymee.

california style

ah cool... competition now...the regulators threat must have worked!

caribbean_spice_boy_73

go with the flow bro, nothing happens befor it's time..you asked for it,

Wurmfist

While I might flame someone for asking this question on a thread that dosen't have over 200 pages. I can respect someone asking because frankly, it's impossible to read through the size of this thread. My only hope is that when it's released a new thread will be started. heh

caribbean_spice_boy_73

So true.. but in this case and stage the fun is getting there not being there....BTW .R.P. I am takign my car in to mazda tomarow to get a couple things fixed, should I leave it there for the install of the SC.. or have them tow it to your shop

Photic

Hey Richard, I had thought about this earlier but I don't recall if I asked it or not.

It just popped into my head again.

Is the current design about as small as you can get it? Or would you be able to create a version that consists of 2 AFSC that are smaller in diameter that are next to eachother?

Maybe with like 3 blade layers on each SC instead of 5 on one larger one?

rotarygod

The problem with that is that first off all it would be more expensive for him to machine. Since he makes the parts out of solid aluminum blocks, it would take more of them to make the required parts. It also isn't as simple as dividing them into 2 units and then cutting the stages down. Each stage gives a certain compression of the air. He needs those stages to get the desired pressure. Having 2 blowers wouldn't increase the pressure but it would increase the flow capacity. He's still need 4 stage blowers, just 2 smaller ones. From a money and complexity standpoint, 2 just isn't practical. You will also have more than twice the rotating mass even with 2 smaller units so that would be more load on the engine. One unit seems like the best option. It's already pretty small for a supercharger but even mounting 2 smaller units would be pretty hard to do.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I kept on thinking how much should I spend on the upgrades for this year, and after like X nights of lack of sleep. I decided that I will go extreme this time and spend up to 1/2 the price of what I paid for this car ! (Its extreme for me, and Im sure my GF would be ****, but ahh)

So .... WHEN YOU GONNA RELEASE IT ! (Or Hymee, if hes reading it)

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

okay, so it only took me about 2 years of this thread for me to finally post...

Haven't read all 200+ pages (just the last 3) but keep up the great work R.P.

Photic

Yeah I figured it would cost more. I thought about the parasitic draw on the engine and I imagined 2 possibilities. A gear that spins them both that is attached to the belt at 1 point, or a serpentine belt between the 2. I was just thinking of space savings.

Although having seen it in person and holding it, it is pretty small already.

What really got me thinking about it was hearing that VW (I think) developed a Quad turbo design for a 4 banger engine. 4 small turbos, 1 for each cylinder. They said it cut down on waisted heat and turbo lag since they weren't as big to spool up and they were providing just enough cfm and pressure for each cylinder.

Was just a thought

Unfortunately I have a lot of them. Damn process wont stop. Even tried a Kill -9 on it.

AvatarQAZ

A fellow linux man!!! Try using a kill -HUP... you dont want any orphaned thoughts.