It Lives!!!!! Well kinda.

The new oil feed parts arrived on friday but I was in school until today. We ran all the lines installed the Int-X, re-attached the battery and started to test the Int-X and noticed there was no power... After about 30 min of searching we found the ECU fuse was blown. After replacing that it looked good. So we topped off all the liquids and got ready to start er up. While my friend looked checked the injectors I started the car.... OMFG it actually started! We looked around and started checking all the connections. After letting it run for about 30 we started to see the pool that was starting to form at our feet. Either I had become Jeb Clampet or my car was spewing oil. So we took it back up on the lift and noticed the oil feed line was leaking. We took it off and looked it over and agreed the fitting wasnt in the best shape but we decided to give it another try and to make sure it was secure. After tighting it down and restarting the engine. Bingo! she was good to go. We let it warm up and run for about 15-20 min. The idle wasnt bad AFR's started at about 11-11.3 and moved to about 12.5 when warm. We had no leaks with the injectors everything seemed good. We re-attached all the other peices we needed and zip-tied everything down, went to pull it out and go for a test drive when we noticed our oil leak was back . It looks like the fitting on the hose is shot and we need to replace it. I have a friend making a new hose tonight and we will give it another shot tomorrow.

 

As a update, I moved the car to a shop about 1 mile away who are ordering the fitting for the line luckally I was able to get the leak down to a random drip for the move.

My question to you is what is the likelyhood of having detonation at low rpm's not in boost and does it allways sound like a whole bunch of marbles or can it be a single sputter/ping or somethig. The int-x was tuned for the kit at PFSupercars so I figured the tune included with the int-x would be good enough to get me back to them. The only difference is my car doesnt have a cat, his was running the stock one.

When running the car to the shop I heard something comming from the front it seemd like a faint click a few times. Each click was seperate at probally about 1 second apart. I was not in boost and my AFR's were in the mid 11's to mid 12's. Let me know if you need any more information. Thanks in advance.

 

Ohh, I forgot to mention I never drove the car above 3k rpms

 

it's hard to damage it when not in boost.

 

That "click" probably happened at about 2000rpm and it was probably the ssv opening and closing. Its normal.

 

Good luck James, glad you got it up and running....
Now you need it boostin,,,

 

the "click" thing, is it the solenoid for the boost controller? does greddy make a noise? it's ussually around 1k - 2k rpm. i have AEM truboost, it makes that noise, but i don't know about greddy...
steven

 

I dont have the greddy installed yet. Im running on wastegate pressute. I also was hearing something that almost sounded like a ping at idle the engine would sputter then come back to a idle. It was only on cold idle and went away once It warmed up. I wonder if that is just because its so rich at cold idle?

 

the click could be the wastegate slamming shut . Mine does that at times you would not expect ...

 

greddy turbo wastegate = russian roulette

more than a few people (who pay attention) have found it to randomly spike up. My fix was to turn up the boost so the spikes matched my normal boost levels.

others, like danomite, found 15+ psi = engine death when it randomly hit. Everything is of course plugged in properly.

 

I think i found a way around that problem

 

so what is the solution that you came up with?

 

/\ what mysql said +

*Have the wastegate spring at the stock (5 psi) setting
*Running an rpm based boost controller which enables me to dial in various duty cycles at different revs . So i'm at over 80% duty cycle to get 9.4 psi . This means that i don't have the actuator spring wound up tight , so max boost should be 11-12psi if controller should lock closed or a hose flys off etc.
*Only other danger is if watsgate jams closed somehow (which i doubt will happen if the spring on the actuators is not wound up tight) If it did happen my piggyback will dramatically cut timing if boost goes over 11.6 psi .

 

if your wg is hosed, you're toast. Your piggyback won't save you. The 3071R from Jeff didn't show the random spiking issues we see on the greddy, even though the setup is similar.

I'm looking forward to trying an external wastegate.

 

cant see why it would jam closed unless something was broken or seized - which you would notice upon inspection .....

I think leaving the spring pressure stock will help prevent a lot of mechanical calamities .....

 

It really lives!!!!

I finally got word from the shop today that they had the new oil feed line installed. I was amazed while the battery seemed weak and the cranking was slow the car started. I had about a 5 mile trip from the garage to my mothers house where I'm going to keep it until the car is tuned. I noticed under light load around 3k rpms my AFR's are going really lean like 15-16. I was going up a hill and had to give it a good amount of gas and during the climb the AFR's were holding in the 13's. I never got the car into boost but on the hill I got to the point where manifold pressure was 0, soo close :-P.

I have almost a 1.5 hour drive to PFS so I have to make a decision on either trying to baby the car to keep it out of the lean zones or try to edit the maps to add fuel at the problem rpms. I imagine this is because the guy who had the kit before me was running the stock cat and I have a midpipe on the car. If one of the injectors was failing or not wired correctally I would really notice it correct?

 

I would not take the risk of doing either - get it towed bud

 

might wanna richen that up a bit..

 

Final Parts:

I ordered and received the final parts for my kit that I was missing. The turbo heat shield and the SS Coolant Pipe. I currently have the coolant pipe heat wrapped but I figured for longevity I would get the replacement one that came with the kit.

 

With the impending white doom that was to befall us today I decided to skip out on work early yesterday and haul the car to PFS. When we lined the car up with the trailer we didnt think it was going to fit. After carful measurement we noticed we had 1" clearence on either side. Amazingly getting the car on wasnt too bad. I wish I had taken a picture of how tight the fit was. I had to crawl out the window of the car and drive it down with the window open.

And the point of my endless ramble is... save any major issues we should have a dyno today!

 

Yesterday was a mixed bag of news. I found out my car has low compression, both rotors were within 10psi of each other but both were low. On the good side the tune was complete. I didnt get anywhere near the numbers I wanted but there are some issues I have to address. Firstly I need new coils... BHR your getting my income tax money. Secondly Ray thinks the wastegate is seeping. He has a manual boost controler on the car while tuneing and it would hit 9lbs of boost at 4k rpm's and slowly diminish down to 5 or 6 at redline. Running on the spring alone I would fall down to 4psi. As it is right now I hit 244 at the wheeles at 4k rpm and then hold that power all the way to redline. I guess I need to do a little more to get it where I want.

 

out of curiosity, what are your vacuum readings and the actual compression numbers?

 

wastegate spring sounds about right . With adjustment you should be able to hold 7psi to just over 6000 without a boost controller .

would not be worried about compression nos - just get a rebuild down the road when it dies completely

 

I dont have the report from PFS yet but I believe he said I was high 80's in the front rotor and mid 90's in the rear. I had 16-17 vac at idle. Brettus I will get a rebuild when it dies compleatly. I think this gives me a chance to mess around with little to lose. Ray gave me an extremly conservitive tune until I upgrade the ignition and get a good boost controller. Ill try to get the dyno and show you guys tomorrow. Ill try to get the compression results and post them to you aswell. I believe with the little battery I have it cranks slow.

 

the vacuum at idle seems pretty good...I thought there was a direct connection with vacuum readings and compression readings...? if you have good vac, then should have good compression...no?