Or how about a new thread? This sounds like something we should brainstorm?

I'm not convinced yet that's what happened, but since I'll be adding boost, I'm positive I'll need to address it. I need the biggest hole possible. And I'd love if you could lend a hand when the time comes. I'm looking at renting a garage now.

 

The ducting worked well...as you can see...

 

Yeah...catch can? pfft...

That pic was after it was cleaned up on track as I tried to find the problem. Literally puddles of oil on both sides.

 

Not trying to be an *******... but I'm definitely going to come off as one. So whatever...

Evil, you are clearly having significant issues with your car as-is even in its current N/A state. And your posts here in Brett's thread are just bringing things off topic and crowding/spamming it at this point. You are experiencing SIGNIFICANT engine blow-by currently to be puking out THAT much oil. Not only that, but both Team and Brettus are trying to give constructive advice from years of their own experience and you're kinda just blowing it off. At the end of the day it's Brett's thread so I am stepping in a bit by speaking up, but maybe make your own thread as you navigate these issues you're having instead of hijacking someone elses?

 

I can let them speak for themselves. I literally actually have Brett's manifold and put my money where my mouth is. I'm actually moving forward installing it regardless by September. And I'm getting their help in all the prep work and supporting mods to do it FOR A TRACK ONLY CAR. And unlike most people who just talk, I'm actively doing it and building. I'm definitely not blowing them off...and if you knew any better would know that I talk to both of them off the board as well.

I don't believe this is blow-by and I still need to investigate the issue. Regardless I believe what everyone is saying is true, I should probably address the future blow-by issue in advance (which is good for anyone doing turbo and good info for this thread). The heat I now know is ducting related and solved. That's good for anyone else doing track work.

These guys are both invaluable. One of them lives nearby. Do you come off as an *******? Sure...mostly because you lack context. Should I start my own thread...you have a good point...I probably should. You're still an *******, but you're right, which is the best kind of *******. Hahaha

My new ******* thread: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-maj...equest-274205/

heheheh

 

I got one of the manifolds as well. I'm currently getting my rotors worked on for FD apex seals and such. I'm actively doing it and building as well. I dont keep in contact with Team off of the forums, and Brett is good about maintaining the privacy of his customers and their builds and not sharing information between parties.

Your dipstick popping out and the large amount of oil you're claiming to be dealing with coming out of the system suggest some kind of pressure or something entering your sump and following the path of least resistance (which its doing) and you're coughing stuff up all over the engine bay. I would highly advise getting your motor checked out or even just pulling it entirely and doing a refresh prior to installing Brett's manifold. A bit more work upfront but less headaches and likely less damage/repairs required in the long run.

And yes, I'm building something geared towards road course and autocross use. Not a parking-lot princess. So similar goals and similar concerns/issues we both need to overcome. Example cooling issues, I deal with hot climate as well and I will be needing to review ducting and upgrades as well. (I have the Koyo HH ready to drop in with FaL420 fans, ducting for cooling components, etc etc)

 

I have an entire keg I'm about to send off for rebuilding and studding specifically for the turbo. The current keg is getting pushed as hard as possible intentionally. I need to find the weakness and then fix it. I'll be running E85 and shooting for 350 minimum and then 400...depending on what breaks or starts to fail, I'll address it then.

This isn't a street car. And this isn't being driven by someone that's slow or only in parking lots.

 

Re: Extra keg -- Smart

Re: Current one -- Also smart to hunt for weak links.

Re: Fuel mix -- Has Brett advised going for just an E30 mixture? You could likely hit those power numbers very easily and not need as large of a fuel system to dump the amount of fuel required for that.

Re: Not a street car -- Didnt look like one, nor did I claim you a slow driver. I'm simply stating the concerns about the blow-by on the current engine. Given the fact you arent even using your current engine for the turbo, the blow-by is irrelevant concern for the F/I build.

 

Brett isn't a fan of 93 for sure...I could end up running E30, I'll let him decide once I get there. But I'm overengineering everything, so it will be able to.

Well now that I know I should seriously address blow-by and need "bigger holes" I'm all for finding the best solution. Esp while the keg is getting rebuilt. What can we do to eliminate or solve the blow-by issue?

I'm all for cutting off parts and replacing them with bigger holes...but I don't want to further pollute the thread...

 

Woah ....what just happened?

Evil my .... remark was just to load the next page as the site techs (STILL) haven't fixed that issue yet !

 

Haha yeah I was making fun of my problem. You can see my shitty "catch can". 🤣

 

not sure what that was all about either, but with a filter on the fill tube nipple like that I wouldn’t be surprised if that’s where all the oil mess was all coming from. I could see it blowing from there to both under the intake and also down the front of the engine. I have a similar issue with Strokers REW with it having a remote filter only on the LHD side of the engine bay and no catch tank. It seems to have gotten a bitter better though.

So the other idea I had for a Renesis was to drill and tap a hole in the top of the oil fill cap to fit a low-profile swivel banjo fitting there for venting. It would allow the fill cap to be turned opened/closed for oil addition. The largest one I found so far is a 12AN (3/4”/18mm). Still looking for a 16AN (1”/25mm) though. Could have sworn I saw one before.

ps: I didn’t understand that it was an NA issue. That engine is toast then.
.

 

Important Update :
As mentioned a couple of weeks ago I've discovered that , under some circumstances, my current setup is prone to boost creep above 7000rpm.
Bear in mind that I have a few things going on that mean mine is a worst case scenario due to the fact that my exhaust system and intercooler in particular are more free flowing than what most people will be using. My manifold and turbine housing are also fully wrapped which exacerbates this.

I have tuned one other street setup with the same manifold/turbo combo and this shows no sign of any creep whatsoever so I know that this wont happen to everyone.
So .... I've been working on this to see what can be done to alleviate the issue and have some recommendations and solutions.

1/ For a street setup using G30-660 0.83 with just an aftermarket exhaust and the recommended intercooler ... unlikely there will be an issue ..... but do set a rev limit of 7500 until you can verify that boost maintains a safe level. Safe for pump gas properly tuned is under 10psi.

2/ For a street setup using G30-660 0.83 with a 3" or larger custom free flow exhaust on pump gas .. there may be an issue . Set rev limit to 7500 until you can verify.
If running an ethanol blend 20% or higher .... you can run higher boost anyway so this wont be an issue for you.
If on pump gas and you find you do have an issue .... I have devised a solution that will ensure the engine is not exposed to dangerous mass flow levels at high rpm. This involves use of a restrictor on the APV port runner. PM me if you require one of these.

3/For a street or race car setup using G30-660 1.01 with a 3" or larger custom free flow exhaust on pump gas or ethanol mix... it's highly unlikely there will be any issue. But do set a rev limit of 7500 until this can be verified.


By the way : I normally recommend any turbo Renesis rev cut is set at 8200 for a gear shift point of 8000rpm. I find this more than satisfactory.

 

Some better news :

Have been doing some testing for this boost creep issue and found out the following :
*Use of a screamer pipe makes it worse.
*Plumbing WG back into main system almost eliminates it completely.

This is with a 3" free flow system. Most setups wont be as free flow as this so should not have an issue at all.

 

The location chosen for plumbing back into the main system can influence the exhaust dynamics, including the angle that the two systems collect back together. Do you have any images of how you did this?

 

The way mine is setup is kinda messed up because it was never intended to work that way so I don't want to post it up. It does enter at 45 degrees but is a long way back. All I was interested in doing was comparing a screamer pipe with what happens when WG gasses are included in the main pipe .... which it did satisfactorily.

 

I'll be doing this on my setup, I'll be making a build thread soon where I will share the way I accomplish this and hopefully I also achieve good results. I plan to have the WG stream enter at a 45 or narrower angle to hopefully make things play nice as you pulled off.

 

I’d like to suggest this Treadstone intercooler core as an alternate:

https://www.treadstoneperformance.co...r-core/p104563

Why?

Because it’s the same length and height, but only 3” wide rather than 3.5” (less volume), yet is much more efficient. Which is why it’s flow rated for 585 rotary whp despite being slightly smaller volume. The only issue is it isn’t offered with end caps and then they have to be welded on. Not any big deal really, but perhaps not as noob friendly.

These cast AL end caps will work with some minor trimming:

https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...gory_Code=IACC

Just thought I’d share. Considering one for the Strokercharged REW RX8.
.

 

Yeah ...that does look good ...more dense internal fin count than the one I'd suggested.

 

Any pictures of a setup utilizing this amazing manifold? I've been thinking about a greddy-like cast manifold for years and now stumble onto this thread!

 

There are a few pics here : https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-maj...5/#post4959080

Is that what you were after ?

 

Hey @Brettus , I'm really interested in going this direction with my Series 2 RX8. I plan on setting it up to still be a street car, but primarily use it for track duty. I was curious if you have noticed any issues from a heat management standpoint with this style manifold keeping heat so close to the block?

 

Good point.
I was aware of that being a possibility, but could see that the water jacket in the housings is close where the manifold sits so didn't think there would be any issues.
So I did look out for that and have noticed nothing. My latest setup has a heat shield between the manifold an the housings but earlier ones did not and I saw no issues with those either. The cast stainless holds the heat really well also so between that, the heat shield and the cooling from the water jacket I don't have any concerns there.

 

Thank you, mind if I shoot you a PM with some further questions? I'm planning out this build and constantly find conflicting info depending on who you talk to and about what.

 

No problem