Been bringing my new 'built for boost' engine up to speed. This is as far as I've gone with it so far. Have an event this weekend - not wanting to go too hard too soon.
Has better response than anything I've tried previously though.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...06f8149107.png
This was with E20, APV restrictor , 14psi in midrange tapering down to 12.5 at 8000 . Boost cut set at 7700
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...53157ab876.png

Damn, that's some good power. I'm assuming that's shaft HP?

wash your mouth out ..... that's whp baby!

I stand corrected! That's fantastic. I cannot get E20 around here, though. It's just a range of E10-E15.

I make up the % myself . Just mix some premix in ethanol and tip it in when I fill up at the pump.

Did a run last night in cool air (18C), at just over 14psi accelerating in 2nd through 3rd. What a monster.
The small changes made to the engine have worked great, this is particularly noticeable 2nd gear. Turbo is fully spooled in 2nd before 4000rpm which makes it feel like the car just leaps into action out of corners. I overlayed 2nd and 3rd gear logs to try and show what I mean . The engine now makes as much power as in 2nd gear at 4000rpm as it does in 3rd. Never been able to do this before!

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...9b5a5451a3.png
blue/red is second
yellow/green is third

300 lb feet of torque is something else at 5k RPM.... I'd imagine that would feel like a whole new car.

Brett, now that your setup is developing well, how much boost do you think you can use on pump gas? How much power do you estimate on ordinary fuel?

When on pump gas (98 octane E10 -93US) I'm running under 10psi. From past experiences this is where I'm comfortable. I know it can take more but it's one of those situations where................. one day it wont. So that's my pump gas limit.
At 10 psi peak power is up around 320-330whp

Had another good day at Mad Mikes summerbash today. Gave me a chance to test the new engine ... it did not disappoint.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...f9ed5de591.jpg
Mad Mikes new car/engine

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...f87eb69ef9.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d2892396dc.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...4bdbec3dca.jpg

Thanks to Kylie from Kybosh for the pics

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...3d48201d89.jpg
Our crew ....

Seems I'm stuck on 14psi for the meantime. Can't get enough traction in 2nd on the current 265s to go any higher for the roll racing coming up this weekend.

Any option for boost by gear?

Its crazy you spin them up, as I supppse you're running some very low TWR tires.

Boost by gear/rpm would be the way to go for sure. Will look at that for the future if I get serious about doing well in these roll racing events.

Lack of traction isn't something I hear RX8 owners complain about too much, congratulations.

you must not know anyone with an REW RX8 then

and immajust just a talkin’ to teh wall as usual as well

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-maj...4/#post4987902


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...9e9028fa7.jpeg
miss you 9k 😭
.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...db55d1cc3b.jpg

Another event today: 'Superfest' at Hampton downs'. Was an up and down kinda day for me, the 8 was running great but started having fuel trim issues midway through the day which meant it was running lean so the failsafe gauge did it's job and dumped boost. Didn't take my laptop so ended up disconnecting the battery every 10 mins or so so I could get a decent roll race result. Wont let that happen again, if I can't find a culprit I'll just disable closed loop for these events from now on.
When on song I was still getting beaten a lot, but I suspect most of the cars were roll race specialists running boost by gear etc. Despite that the 8 was staying in touch with some very quick/very expensive builds.
I really must get boost by gear if I'm going to keep doing this.

The purple 8 in the background is running the legendary inline 6 'Bara' engine and was ripping it up all day on the skid pad. Have to say it sounded great and attracted a lot of attention!

I’d rather gift you one than keep beating my head on the wall, it’s really starting to hurt :suspect:

https://sirhclabs.com

otherwise, what are the tire class/ruled limitations, assuming there are any? Because there are streetable tire options that, while you wouldn’t want to use them daily, will take that output level without spinning.

Inline 6s are the ticket imo, but the 13B exhaust pulsing is a close match.
.

I'm only just starting to get into this and I'm not in an actual competition, so it's not that I really 'need' to do anything. Just because I haven't done it yet after you mentioning it once or twice doesn't mean I'm not listening..........calm down ;)

Oh I so wish there was an affordable standalone boost controller on the market, too bad no one has suggested one. Truly, I am in dire straits, if only there was a solution to be had. Alas, this dearth of boost controllers is a blight on my existence.

Am I doing it right?

Team send me free stuff thx

:yelrotflm

@ciprianrx8 i think you have been called uppon. It should be easy to get gear information from ekther speed/rpm or other information provided by ECU (you lnow better anyways).

still dishonest to the core I see.

remember back when you had a complete meltdown and said you would never except anything from me, even for free? No different than the one who started this thread, the flocking birds of a feather.

did you even bother to read about the “same ol’ boost controller”?

because it’s not, but laugh and mock as usual, not being capable of much else.

No, it’s essentially an add-on pc-based ecu specifically designed for NA cars converted to FI to provided a multitude of functions for that purpose

high resolution boost control
boost control fail safes
scramble boost control
launch boost control
spool boost control
gear change boost control (DSG transmission only)
water/meth control
nitrous control
true boost by gear control


but that’s just like you, the same as when you cursed God and his whole creation, melting down like a child, not any more advanced or wiser today than you were back then.
.

I have boost by gear myself... in the sense that anything under 3rd gear doesn't use boost past the minimum I get by spring pressure. Given how little or how much a renesis can take, this is perfectly fine... and an arduino + mcp2515 shield +chatgpt + one of those UIM solenoids can handle this.

Buddy you have a melt down on this forum at least once a week. You're having one right now, because of a lighthearted joke. Do you really think I was expecting you to send me anything?

You were having one before because no one was responding to your product suggestion, and Brettus had to coddle you like a child "Yes, yes, it was a good suggestion, I heard you ;)" *pats Team's head*.

No, I would not actually accept anything from you free or otherwise, mostly because I don't give insane people my address.

Unless...you are going to send me this definitely not a boost controller that controls boost...?

brb guys gonna go open a post office box

it’s all in there on that website

https://sirhclabs.com/product/can-bu...rpm-interface/

.

Ciprian is a nut on DIY electronics, and he does make great designs as we seen in his thread. My idea was for him to offer the full boost by gear controller :) as an alternative for what you have linked and as an answer to this part:

obviously, the affordable part being a relative term. - (and obviously at the time I missed the sarcasm in the rest of the message, I'm little like Sheldon from BingBangTheory)

it seemed fairly affordable compared to an aftermarket ecu that then isn’t emissions legal for those here in the USA

also compared to all the Renesis engines that went boom, if that’s not affordable then such a person has no business boosting their Renesis in the first place.

but yeah if you can get it done in an alternate fashion that works, more power to you. I just had that in my back pocket for many years, but have other alternatives now.
.

This is sadly also the whole Europe, and most of Africa, dont know for others

I agree with you. for me it would be just because I would like to integrate everything in a "side box" which could log all the necessary data ect ect, having multiple devices connected to the OBD slows down the communication a lot. ie, having the rpm interface for example, would corrupt the logged data using an OBD reader (make it unusable, or at least much slower, as the ecu needs to respond to each obd request sequentially) @ciprianrx8 could probably explain much better than I could.

This is only true when polling for data and thru a noisy connection or improperly terminated links. Theres a set of pids that's always being spammed on the line. Rpm and other basic pids are sent in broadcast form so anything can listen and pick it up. CAN is pretty robust.

Before I spend anything on BBG controller I've decided to try something a little more DIY. I can build on the throttle map tuning I've already done.
I can use first gear at half throttle and it makes 8psi ... this avoids wheelspin in first. Second gear I can just adjust the throttle map and set max pedal position so that throttle is less than 100% to avoid wheelspin. Third is fine and I've only got another 1psi (15psi total) I can add safely with the 660 anyway.
So I should be able to get pretty close to the max. (safely) possible with this setup.

Turning off the DSC will help as well I think. I've seen this closing the throttle quite a lot in 2nd

Update ........... I've been trying a few things and chasing some red herrings in the course of which I've learned a few things.

1/ It's beneficial to turn the slow speed fans on at a temp 1-2 deg C above what the engine runs at normally on warm/hot days. This helps keep inlet air temp down while sitting stationary at idle as it moves hot stagnant air from the radiator, through into the engine bay, rather than it lingering around the air intake filter. This is important when sitting at idle on a hot day waiting for a race etc. I'd rather not have them come on at normal operating temps as it serves no useful purpose other than wearing out the fan motors.

2/ I have been chasing my tail for the reason AFRs went lean at the track recently - was convinced it was IAT related and possibly to do with sensor being separated from the maf. So did all sorts of heat shielding and testing. Was about to return sensor to stock setup but cleaned the maf sensor first and voila ! Problem solved. I'm sure I knew this could happen but for some reason didn't think to do it- possibly got fixated on the wrong thing and couldn't see the wood for the trees!

3/Managed to fine tune my throttle maps such that I now have a midway position that gives me around 10psi at 3500 and 8 psi from then on. Was quite difficult to achieve but now it's done (for all gears) i'm loving it. Just makes the car feel so alive out of corners etc without going hard out into wheelspin or worse. More boost at 3500 flattens the torque curve ....so same torque from 3500 all the way to 8000.

4/Still trying to achieve a setting that will avoid 2nd gear wheelspin so I can turn up boost in 3rd .... proving more difficult than I anticipated. Throttle needs to be around 50% or lower to make much difference.

5/Engine mods done for this setup are working great - spoolup is better and I'm sure power is up over anything previous at same boost. Took an Aussie for spin at latest event .... he must have been pretty impressed seeing a renesis matching modded Rx7s and GTRs ....as he bought a manifold on the spot!

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...81e39fdea8.png
14psi log ............. 300 torque over most of rev range

Actually ........ just decided to can this idea as it's going to put too much boost before the throttle plate. My part throttle 8 psi setting already showing 12psi pre throttle so 13ish psi is going to be higher than that again - which just isn't an efficient way to do it.
Later in the year I could be going Haltec stand alone which will have everything I need to achieve this so will wait till then I think.

1. I have set my fans at 85°C and up to 40kph or somethink like that. As you say, keeps the air moving.
There is no point in letting the engine warm up above that.

2. Yea, obvious in haisight :) running maf post turbo is just a a question of time untill it gets dirty :)

Did you know that setting is for the high speed fans? I set mine at 100km/hr ...just in case I want to do a burnout.

my heart jumpz with joyz every time teh blind squirrel finally trips over a sustaining nut. :)

and just like I tried to tell the people on here who always poopoo the idea of running the electric radiator fans at speed; they don’t fully understand how compounding works … the same who then profess that blocking the radiator in fully with foam is teh bomb too …
.

I don't have such power to burnout at 100kph :D ( I know, wheel speed, not car speed)
with these setting my high speed never kicks on actually but I'm still NA in fairly mild climate. my engine temps hover between 82 and 85. thought I have a 40row oil cooler center mounted adding a little more heat to dissipate.

the standalone ecu are so great for turbos...I have a microsquirt on my turbo efi kawasaki zx11 with gt3582,38mm wg on manifold,water-to-air intercooler welded to intake plenum.
blow off valve on intake plenum...with secondaries in plenum.
great control on timing,afr,and boost control.
the megasquirt micro fits on bikes well,and is only $340
I might upgrade to a ms3x or maxxecu later for more outputs
-----'
I've thought about using the microsquirt on rx8...i see in tunerstudio settings,drop down window for rotary engines,for things like ignition, dwell, ect....but atleast do for boost control only?
---- I'm planning on turboing my 2005 auto RX-8 with your manifold....mostly up torque in low to mid boost...not going for high hp

Well, good luck with such idea. It might have a good boost controll (which a simple arduino can have to the same level) but engine controll... Im not as sure.

yes i agree....i ment just boost control...but i was just saying how other setting are in software.
I edited it to be clear

Would be great to see an auto with a bit more grunt. Very rare thing !

I agree....I'm looking forward too it

Actually, I have an automatic (S1) that I'd love to do this conversion to as well, but I didn't want to be greedy since it has taken time to get to my R3 converted first and I already have a manifold for that one.

I did tune a Supercharged auto S1 (4speed) a while back. I think we found anything over about 6psi was too hard on it and he had to have the trans upgraded to take more.

I was going to point that out, plus the std. 4-port doesn’t have hardened stationary gears and such like the 6-port engines. The engine really needs to be rebuilt specifically for this purpose.
.

What about the later auto? I don't have the 4-speed. I think it is a 6-speed. Its in a 2007 car.

Haven't tried with that one ...................

in regards to engine internals its the same

The 2007 renesis Auto is a de-tuned 6-port. The spinning components are the same, but the plates and externals are different.

the stationary gears are not spinning components :) but if its a 6 port than it's clear :) Thanks for correction

can you make me a list of parts to buy,to update the auto for this ...thanks for any help