Ciprian is a nut on DIY electronics, and he does make great designs as we seen in his thread. My idea was for him to offer the full boost by gear controller :) as an alternative for what you have linked and as an answer to this part:

obviously, the affordable part being a relative term. - (and obviously at the time I missed the sarcasm in the rest of the message, I'm little like Sheldon from BingBangTheory)

it seemed fairly affordable compared to an aftermarket ecu that then isn’t emissions legal for those here in the USA

also compared to all the Renesis engines that went boom, if that’s not affordable then such a person has no business boosting their Renesis in the first place.

but yeah if you can get it done in an alternate fashion that works, more power to you. I just had that in my back pocket for many years, but have other alternatives now.
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This is sadly also the whole Europe, and most of Africa, dont know for others

I agree with you. for me it would be just because I would like to integrate everything in a "side box" which could log all the necessary data ect ect, having multiple devices connected to the OBD slows down the communication a lot. ie, having the rpm interface for example, would corrupt the logged data using an OBD reader (make it unusable, or at least much slower, as the ecu needs to respond to each obd request sequentially) @ciprianrx8 could probably explain much better than I could.

This is only true when polling for data and thru a noisy connection or improperly terminated links. Theres a set of pids that's always being spammed on the line. Rpm and other basic pids are sent in broadcast form so anything can listen and pick it up. CAN is pretty robust.

Before I spend anything on BBG controller I've decided to try something a little more DIY. I can build on the throttle map tuning I've already done.
I can use first gear at half throttle and it makes 8psi ... this avoids wheelspin in first. Second gear I can just adjust the throttle map and set max pedal position so that throttle is less than 100% to avoid wheelspin. Third is fine and I've only got another 1psi (15psi total) I can add safely with the 660 anyway.
So I should be able to get pretty close to the max. (safely) possible with this setup.

Turning off the DSC will help as well I think. I've seen this closing the throttle quite a lot in 2nd

Update ........... I've been trying a few things and chasing some red herrings in the course of which I've learned a few things.

1/ It's beneficial to turn the slow speed fans on at a temp 1-2 deg C above what the engine runs at normally on warm/hot days. This helps keep inlet air temp down while sitting stationary at idle as it moves hot stagnant air from the radiator, through into the engine bay, rather than it lingering around the air intake filter. This is important when sitting at idle on a hot day waiting for a race etc. I'd rather not have them come on at normal operating temps as it serves no useful purpose other than wearing out the fan motors.

2/ I have been chasing my tail for the reason AFRs went lean at the track recently - was convinced it was IAT related and possibly to do with sensor being separated from the maf. So did all sorts of heat shielding and testing. Was about to return sensor to stock setup but cleaned the maf sensor first and voila ! Problem solved. I'm sure I knew this could happen but for some reason didn't think to do it- possibly got fixated on the wrong thing and couldn't see the wood for the trees!

3/Managed to fine tune my throttle maps such that I now have a midway position that gives me around 10psi at 3500 and 8 psi from then on. Was quite difficult to achieve but now it's done (for all gears) i'm loving it. Just makes the car feel so alive out of corners etc without going hard out into wheelspin or worse. More boost at 3500 flattens the torque curve ....so same torque from 3500 all the way to 8000.

4/Still trying to achieve a setting that will avoid 2nd gear wheelspin so I can turn up boost in 3rd .... proving more difficult than I anticipated. Throttle needs to be around 50% or lower to make much difference.

5/Engine mods done for this setup are working great - spoolup is better and I'm sure power is up over anything previous at same boost. Took an Aussie for spin at latest event .... he must have been pretty impressed seeing a renesis matching modded Rx7s and GTRs ....as he bought a manifold on the spot!

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...81e39fdea8.png
14psi log ............. 300 torque over most of rev range

Actually ........ just decided to can this idea as it's going to put too much boost before the throttle plate. My part throttle 8 psi setting already showing 12psi pre throttle so 13ish psi is going to be higher than that again - which just isn't an efficient way to do it.
Later in the year I could be going Haltec stand alone which will have everything I need to achieve this so will wait till then I think.

1. I have set my fans at 85°C and up to 40kph or somethink like that. As you say, keeps the air moving.
There is no point in letting the engine warm up above that.

2. Yea, obvious in haisight :) running maf post turbo is just a a question of time untill it gets dirty :)

Did you know that setting is for the high speed fans? I set mine at 100km/hr ...just in case I want to do a burnout.

my heart jumpz with joyz every time teh blind squirrel finally trips over a sustaining nut. :)

and just like I tried to tell the people on here who always poopoo the idea of running the electric radiator fans at speed; they don’t fully understand how compounding works … the same who then profess that blocking the radiator in fully with foam is teh bomb too …
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I don't have such power to burnout at 100kph :D ( I know, wheel speed, not car speed)
with these setting my high speed never kicks on actually but I'm still NA in fairly mild climate. my engine temps hover between 82 and 85. thought I have a 40row oil cooler center mounted adding a little more heat to dissipate.

the standalone ecu are so great for turbos...I have a microsquirt on my turbo efi kawasaki zx11 with gt3582,38mm wg on manifold,water-to-air intercooler welded to intake plenum.
blow off valve on intake plenum...with secondaries in plenum.
great control on timing,afr,and boost control.
the megasquirt micro fits on bikes well,and is only $340
I might upgrade to a ms3x or maxxecu later for more outputs
-----'
I've thought about using the microsquirt on rx8...i see in tunerstudio settings,drop down window for rotary engines,for things like ignition, dwell, ect....but atleast do for boost control only?
---- I'm planning on turboing my 2005 auto RX-8 with your manifold....mostly up torque in low to mid boost...not going for high hp

Well, good luck with such idea. It might have a good boost controll (which a simple arduino can have to the same level) but engine controll... Im not as sure.

yes i agree....i ment just boost control...but i was just saying how other setting are in software.
I edited it to be clear

Would be great to see an auto with a bit more grunt. Very rare thing !

I agree....I'm looking forward too it

Actually, I have an automatic (S1) that I'd love to do this conversion to as well, but I didn't want to be greedy since it has taken time to get to my R3 converted first and I already have a manifold for that one.

I did tune a Supercharged auto S1 (4speed) a while back. I think we found anything over about 6psi was too hard on it and he had to have the trans upgraded to take more.

I was going to point that out, plus the std. 4-port doesn’t have hardened stationary gears and such like the 6-port engines. The engine really needs to be rebuilt specifically for this purpose.
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What about the later auto? I don't have the 4-speed. I think it is a 6-speed. Its in a 2007 car.

Haven't tried with that one ...................

in regards to engine internals its the same

The 2007 renesis Auto is a de-tuned 6-port. The spinning components are the same, but the plates and externals are different.

the stationary gears are not spinning components :) but if its a 6 port than it's clear :) Thanks for correction

can you make me a list of parts to buy,to update the auto for this ...thanks for any help