She even has more 'glow' now ...lol


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...3645878e7f.jpg

Nice combination: "Beauty and the Boost" :icon_tup:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...fd11ea784c.jpg
Took some effort but got there eventually. Wheel well seems cooler after this extra shielding
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...4f5c618cf4.jpg

Manifold also shielded ... for heat management .
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...359fa03529.jpg
Turbo in wheel well before exit coupler fitted
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...4de79b1ed4.jpg
Underneath showing how tight it is before WG pipe fitted. Intake pipe was a real mission to make as you can see from all the welds.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...94a0664cda.jpg

from front looking rearward

Which brand of shielding is that? Don't recall seeing that type before.

This stuff
HEAT SHIELD 330X240 - MP4116 - Permaseal | Repco New Zealand

seems right in line with the expectation; the 3582 is bigger/heavier/more MOI, less efficient, and the 0.83 housing for it flows more than the G30 0.83 housing.

thanks for posting those pics, very interesting. :)

that heat shielding link didn’t provide much info, here it is from another site:

.

To mitigate heat in the footwell, I:

• added additional shielding, over the entire saddle, under the trans tunnel aluminum protector
• run a turbine cover
• and DP heat wrap

...and have experienced no discernible heat in the footwell.

Btw: the trans tunnel heat shielding also resolved the heating of the cup holders as well.

Yeah , I have similar shielding.
Just came back from a 400km cruise around the Coromandel wearing bare feet the whole way. Left foot still gets a little warm but not too bad.

Have either of you tried ceramic coating the hot side of the turbo, mani, downpipe, etc?

man thats a tight fit!

No, I chose not to ceramic coat anything ...believing that heat shielding w/b sufficient.

I had my old Greddy manifold ceramic coated ..... it worked ok for a while but then started flaking off after a few years. It's very prone to mechanical damage.

Just finished retuning after swapping injectors from:
brown/uncapped yellow/uncapped yellow (650/850/850)
to all series 2
Green/brown/brown (500/650/650)
Was able to drop idle from 1000 down to 900 and get probably the smoothest idle I've ever had . Didn't notice any other improvements but I suspect fuel economy will be even better than it already was and having much better spray patterns now has to offer some small gains in detonation resistance and overall power at same boost settings.

Wouldn’t have any issue at all with Injector Dynamics injectors, at least on the primary. You have to find the old long body style to fit in the primary holes though. The ID1000’s will idle as low as you want.
.

The browns caused surge at 900 , I'm surprised the ID1000s do better.

because they’re superior to OE injectors in every regard. A 13B will low idle just fine on ID1300s even, but they were never offered in the long body version.

Have you actually tried them on a Renesis ? I would imagine the Renesis uses quite a bit less fuel than an older 13B at idle.

yes, people on here have already used them on the Renesis primary

the people at ID are well familiar with the Renesis flow requirement, you’d don’t seem to be aware of the technology for low flow development on them

but at the risk of talking to the hand again, I’ll gladly send you a pair to try and confirm for yourself :dunno:

edit: forgot I actually have some ID725 long bodies to send. You definitely won’t have any issue at all with them.

http://injectordynamics.com/articles/low-pulse-tech/
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Sorry for my ignorance but what is injector surge? just sudden dump of fuel on light throttle?

My remark about surge was relating to the unstable idle at 900rpm I observed when the S2 browns were fitted in P1.

No I wasn't aware of the low flow tech. Will keep that in mind for the future ...thanks.

I didn’t fully get it either early on, but back when I was intending to plug the primaries and idle off the P2s instead they told me the 1350s would be ok for that.

However, ended up getting an S2 intake manifold since then and will use the long bodies for Pri instead with a pair of Sec for a 4-injector system. Of course you can program all that in the Adaptronic Modular ecu too as far as flow balancing the fuel goes for better distribution wrt Pri vs Sec. I wanted the APV position sensor indication on the S2 manifold mostly though.
.

Brett, Have you begun distributing mani's from the first run to purchasers yet?

Curious when we may begin seeing those new build threads.

Have sent out the first one to a guy in Aussie which he should get this week. Don't think he frequents this forum though, so unlikely we will see a build thread from him.
I've been at the mercy of the casters (now using two separate companies) and between covid lockdowns and a huge surge in demand for just about everything, It's taking way longer than I anticipated. The economy here has gone crazy because no-one is traveling overseas so they are all spending their money internally.
There should be at least further five get made this month with most of those guys being on here so hopefully there will be some build threads soon.

Yeah, you aint wrong. It was a fight for every mm of space in every direction. If it's all assembled in a logical order it's not too bad though. Much easier to put together than a Greddy setup.

didn’t want to pollute your turbo thread; I agree with your feeling about not choosing Pulsar/copy-cat turbos over Garrett, but it is worthy to note that according to Pulsar their turbine housings are directly interchangeable with Garrett and for someone considering a less powerful but more responsive street engine they do offer a 0.72 A/R T3 housing that I feel could serve this purpose.
.

Just checked out their page..... daym , they offer so many options for that turbo .....

They do look like reasonable quality and have some good reviews. I know at least one person that will use one so that will be interesting.
What I do know about them
*inferior turbine (cast iron?) housing material .G30 is cast stainless - although a downside to that is they are ridiculously heavy.
*Inferior turbine blade material

I know there's some pictures of the turbo at the beginning of the thread, but I wanted to add one with something that might be familiar to show just how impressively compact it is for the amount of power you get.

Next to it is a standard Starbucks Grande (16oz / 473.17mL) cold cup.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...339d022239.jpg
That's the recommended .83 housing.

well for sure a good stainless housing is better, but not really a huge deal on a street car imo.

.

That really is the crux of it .....for it's physical size.............. it really can't be beat.

Agreed . The big thing for me would be that I wouldn't trust it to fit properly . I've had a few experiences with Chinese knockoff products ..................

Also something I've noticed with the cast stainless manifold vs the old steel ones I made ..... they really do hold the heat in much better. Everything that can be done down there to stop heat getting to the LIM and into the engine bay ...is a good thing.

yeah ok

but regarding your EFR8370 comment on the other forum, your current 0.83 G30 turbine is the same peak turbine flow as the EFR 7670 1.05 housing
.

I put it at same flow as the EFR 7670 0.92 .... 23lbs/min .

maybe my memory is off, was thinking flatline was 24 lb/min (2.5 Pr+)

also, Matchbot is not listing 70mm turbines properly

It's 23ish at the pr range I'm in ..... 24 later in PR range.

I don’t think you’re understanding me clearly, but it’s not really any big deal so ok.

Correct , I didn't get the point you were originally trying to make.
I was just correcting the 7670/1.05 compatible comment.

I have 24.0 for the 0.92 and 25.5 for the 1.05, but ok

So, uhh... where do I send the money? An how much? =)

Hi ,
best to PM me .
Cheers

Brettus,

Kinda relevant, kinda not. You are using a backpressure sensor correct? Can you describe the parts and tubing you used for this? Just curious on what I am piecing together vs what others have used.

Check out the fourth picture down on this post : https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-maj...5/#post4959080 .Fitting is in upper right of photo.

I've used a 90 degree stainless fitting- 1/8"NPT into manifold and 1/8" flared steel tube exit. From there there is approx. 1m of steel tubing leading to a point beside the ECU . It then goes to silicone tube and I have used the VFAD plastic reservoir as a pulse dampener/ moisture barrier . From there it goes to my gauge . I don't dedicate a permanent gauge to EMAP as you really only need to look at it when you are analysing your system performance. Plus, a lot of moisture comes through the line on startup which can damage the gauge sensor.

Updates?
 

Is the other block ready yet? Any updates?

Well ... I had a heart to heart with my engineer and managed to convince him to............ maybe one day, if he's not busy ....do the low comp rotors .

Accidently turned up da bewst ... Still only 11.5ish on stock engine but damn ............ I'd forgotten how quick these things are!
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...183dcdd5c9.png
2nd 2500 to 8000 ................3rd to 7500........................ zero to 11psi in 0.5 seconds in 3rd.

nice 👍

100. Yezzir. :yesnod:

2nd to 3rd was with the turbine blade carrying momentum right?

Still 2500 11+ was only ~1.5 seconds 0.0

Yeah , and remember ............... you don't typically start from 2500rpm ... I just did that because I was tuning. At any rpm over 4000 the spoolup is much quicker.

just for old times sake :suspect:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-maj...5/#post4935511
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