So who is willing to bridgeport my 4 port?? Don't mind being a guinea pig when it comes to performance, and I am sure it would be ground breaking for us 4 porters...may even shut some of those people up who are whining about owning one!!

 

^pm BDC
I bet he would do it

 

I'm sure he would too.
He's doing my 6 port.

 

Has any N/A bridgeport dyno been posted yet?

 

I'll get one done after mine's in, broke in, and tuned.
I'll be NA for a bit before going turbo due to the cost of a turbo kit.
I'm curious to see what I get out of it myself.

 

Has BDC or anyone else posted prices to bridge a set of irons?

 

Not that I know of.
I'm not sure if he wants me stating what he offered me, but I would assume that it's a semi standard price.
Easiest thing to do is just ask. They'll tell you what they'll do it for.

 

I really hope this works because my child support and car payments will be done in 3 years giving me 2000 more a month to play with...hahahaha

Anyways 2010 I will be test tunning the S/C kit I'm making, 2011 I'll be building the track car, 2012 I'll be entering in time attack full out if the world does not end first.

I am very interested in the longevity of the bridgeport renny. I hope that one of you guys that has it will race the hell out of it to see how long it last.

I really need to keep my engine stock to show fairly what my kit will do.

Sooooooo, this might sound weird, but is it possible.

weld the siamese ports shut, like a complete fill and then re-port them with one being on top of the other with better exhaust angles. The internal opening of the port can be a bit larger.

Or.

Modify a center section from a standard 13b.

Not saying its easy, but since bridge porting is being done, why not experiment with something off the wall.

Please be kind, don't flame, just educate why it can and can't be done for me and whoever else is reading this. We all come here for knowledge and this thread has some very insightful things going on in it.

Ben

 

Here's my problem, I live in Ontario, Canada. No one around here is really capable of doing reliable work from what I hear...

 

I think you're biggest problem is availability of parts. Not to say some people wouldn't still try some new things, but it's not like the older 13b stuff where it's everywhere. I guess you never know though.

 

Shoot me a PM on it. I'll do it.

B

 

How sweet would it be, if the irons where made fatter so that the exhaust ports could be made to flow better. Ofcourse a modified e-shaft would be needed which would add to the un-sprung weight.

I would like to take a the iron sections to my cnc guy and ask him how much it would be to make them. It would also be worth it once the bridgeport port shape is perfected.

 

It wouldn't be cheep, and it would depend on the materials you wanted to make it out of. I've been in contact with several local machinists and forges to look into 3rotor part production (20b, not 3rotor renesis). Anything can be done, but money is usually the issue, and a lot of forges don't like to make only 1, and if the do, it's an upcharge. a 4" thick rod of 4330 will run you $500+ for just the steel. It would still then need to be forged or ground down from the billet. So your e-shaft will be a couple thousand dollars on it's own since you're not mass producing them. A forge will cut you a deal on forgings if you're doing several at once.

I haven't gotten my hands on a 20b center iron yet to start estimating costs on that, but it will require more than CNC work. Some things may have to be done by hand. For the thicker iron in just aluminum (6061) just the 2" x 12" x 24" plate will run you almost $500 plus CNC, hand work, flame spray, and polishing. Then it requires testing to make sure you reinforce heavy wear areas with something other than just the aluminum. It would be pretty extensive to get the irons made. For sure a lot more work involved than the e-shaft.

 

This must be why I don't get involved with the engine stuff "just yet" and make bolt on stuff.

Thanks reddozen.

Ben

 

Somebody post a dyno on this puppy.

/Starting to wonder....

 

There's already dyno numbers for turbo.

Brian's still building mine, so it's going to be a few months till I can get any numbers out there for NA. I'll still have to break it in first.

 

Who has the ported FI dyno?

 

Got the porting done today. I'm half-tempted to get exhaust and intake (with bridge) porting templates made for this. There's a lot that can be done on these motors not just with porting but also on the oil galleys...

B

 

Finally, this engine is doing ok for N/A

 

Where?
Please.

 

Talk to chris...
He's making like 500 HP.
The thing with a turbo though is that every setup will net different results, so I really don't see how looking at a dyno sheet is going to help you. You'd have to have 2 engines with the exact same setup to compare, and bridge ports are still pretty rare, so it'll be a while before you have any good data.

It will be a power increase. By how much, I have no clue. If I had to guess, maybe 250 WHP NA, but that may be a stretch. We'll see..

 

Truth is that we will probably never know how it will perform with a turbo from Chris since he has got the bad habit to do several modifications at a time
Bridgy? new intake plenum? what does what and how much does it net over a stock renny with the same setup? @ Chris!

 

lol yea...

well, once mine's done, we'll know what a base NA rene will put down. that will get a starting comparison. Problem with the dyno is that we're not going to get an accurate read cause the front wheels aren't moving >_< I'll need to read up on all that again. I remember there being some issues with the dyno and the front wheels not moving.

 

Turn the DSC completely off and you should do just fine.

 

will do.
hopefully this will be in the car and running by December... comes down to how quickly I can get Brian the money I owe him.