How are your kidneys?
I'm doing some weird experiments right now on a couple of engine cores that i have laying around. Will follow 2 paths and then pick the one i think to be the best one from a turbo point of view.

Increasing the power output in a NA car is pretty different than a turbo one when porting the renesis imho, i will probably focus more on the turbine spool time than peak numbers. NA i would porbably just avoid any kind of porting that is more than a simple "tune-up" for i feel that the stock intake ports can already fullfill the stock engine's needs.
This with a stock ecu on a NA car, then if you start taking in considerations the rpms where the stock engine is choked (9000 or so and up) and a stand-alone ECU that's a whole other story!

 

hey chrisrx8PR, did you do any work to the runners on the irons? i measured the runner ID at barely over 1.1" and the auxilary (with sleeve pulled out) at 1.4" (my motor will not have sleeves, but will be shaped with JB weld for smooth flow)

I wanted to port the runner entrance larger (1.5") and shape the runner a little better after opening it up some. I have spare 4 port irons i was going to make my guinea pigs. but they are in good shape and i dont want to "possibly" ruin them if you already have the answer. or anyone else?

 

Are you referring to the intake ports right?
Something you could do is removing the anti wet ports, the ones that allow for a better combustion at low rpm but become a small restriction at higher rpms.
Have a closer look on how horrible some transitions are, using some JBweld there will surely help flow.
Unfortunately there's not much room to port without hitting water jackets etc, improving the flow in other way will lead to the only "significant" gains imho

 

yes the intake ports...

what are "anti wet ports"? although the trasitions arnt that great in the runners. i think they are greatly imporved when comparing to older 13b's but, they still do need some work for best performance.

the manifold im making is using 1.5" ID runners and i want everything to flow smoothly. this is why i want to open the runner up a little bit also. if no one has tried porting the runner out, i'll try it on my 4 port plates.

 

I filled in the AWP on Ray's motor. They look like a mistake if you don't know what you are seeing. Basically in the intake runner on the primary ports, on the oil control ring side, the runner itself goes past the port opening to form a lip. That was intentional as they wanted turbulence to help fuel mixing. I cleaned it, roughed it up, dimpled it like a golf ball, and then filled it in with epoxy and reshaped it. If you are careful, there is no reason to be scared of epoxy. I use it in my engines too. If Ray's engine has any gain over stock, it's completely due to the primary ports being enlarged and the AWP being filled in.

 

RG, you just reminded me i have to buy a lot of JB weld
Using the epoxy is fine, i was uncertain to what sleeves the OP was referring to!
Anyway, working there is a pity for my fat hands.

 

i just went and check my center iron fo it. its actually pretty big lip. i can see where that would disrupt some pretty good flow.

i been told (but didnt check yet) you can actually work with the primary ports. theres room to actually do some port work and enlargen them. did you do any work to the actual primary port? if so, have any pictures?

and yeah, i also use JB weld (the tube puddy kind that you mash together) for shaping in my motors and manifolds.

 

I ported down and up. Do not try to open them earlier and definitely don't port towards the oil control rings.

 

but what about the actual runner? not the bowl area. the round shaped runner is quite small (1.1")

enlargening this would help im sure. but im not sure how much "meat" can be cleared out. like i said, my manifold runners will be 1.5" and i would like the runner opening to match. so did you port the rest of the runner at all?

 

I take it, the bridgeport did not produce more power?
It's been months, and not a dyno chart to be seen; now we are talking about normal porting in the bridgeport thread.

Sorry to be down, but I would love to be shown I am wrong.
Actually, I am hopeful to be proven wrong in this case.

 

i wasnt really taling about "normal" porting. mainly porting the runners. with would help any style of porting... bridge, street, or no porting at all. cast runners always need work.

 

and no kind of beveling?
I port a tiny bit near the oil control rings, less than 1mm though... just to make the port and the plate even (the plate is smaller than the intake port inside). Don't know if you get me!

 

I was curious so i put my Pineapple Racing Large street port template for the 6 port on the Renesis plate. and its damn near a perfect match! very very close match. i was going to take a few pics, but my camara has no batteries.

I thought that was kinda cool they are such a close match.

wich means theres hope yet for the renesis. they basically come street ported already. so add a bridge and and it should make some good NA power after tuning. theres a few rx7 6 ports running quick times NA here in Orlando.

 

im pretty sure you already know. but for those who dont. a slight bevel should ALWAYS be added where the tip of the side seal crosses. another problem with loss in compression on the Rx8's. side seal wear where it meats the corner seal.

 

That's the main reason
As for the old 6ports... they were running on peripheral exhaust ports, take a look at how our exhaust ports are shaped etc and you will probably understand why a bridgeport in a 13b msp won't give a huge increase in power. An increase? maybe, we have yet to see the dynos. Huge? don't think so.

 

very true about the side exhaust ports. but they do flow OK since theres 2 instead of one. im guessing (no proof to back it up) but with a bridge on both intake and exhaust. these might make some nice power. not huge, but pretty nice power. someones going to try it. i just dont have the bank roll to waste the plates if it dosnt work.

im still waiting on a dyno or time slip before i bridge mine.

oh, i didnt check the center iron with the template though. its probley identical also...

 

the exhaust ports can't be worked much, the all-mighty and dreaded water jacket is there ready to be hit!

 

From what produced mazdatrix peripheral intake renesis and speedsource produced etc... I would say engine will max out around 230-240whp. But mainly I would except nice midrange increase...

 

I only make the runners smoother. There's no point in making them larger as the intake ports can already flow enough air for nearly 300 hp. I wouldn't want to kill velocity and as a result low to midrange power. A 4 port engine would be a little bit of a different story though. That engine could benefit from it being a little larger. Intake runner size really isn't the issue that some make it out to be.

 

i see just about everyone maxing out at around 230-240. but my question is, that pump gas? My motor will be ran on C16... so im hoping to beat out those numbers.

 

good point. i dont want to kill velocity. but my actual manifold runners are 1.5", so im going to try and match that on the motor for smooth transition. this will be mainly a top end motor so low to mid range isnt really a problem. i plan on making my power at the 7-10k range.

i could just enlargen the runner slightly and chamfer the end runner like older 13b's have on the end. i read somewhere to keep the little chamfer on the end as it acts like a velocity stack.

 

I think it isnīt about fuel, but about flow. Side port exhaust in some ways is quite good, but siamese center exhaust port is awful. You canīt benefit from pressure wave tuning with it... I would even say, that with ported outer ports and blocked center, it would be much better, of course to the certain point, where outright flow will be limited... And as I said, donīt be so concerned about max HP, increased midrange torque and area under the curve, that are main benefits...

 

well heres a pic of the Pineapple Racing Large street port remplate against the renesis...

Its almost an exact match in most places. but you can see the 2 spots where the PaRacing is slightly bigger. but the stock reni opens slightly earlier. The hump just about matches the template. but thats it. I would say its safe and a great idea to match the template also.

what is the "hump" actually there for? i havnt seen anyone remove it yet during porting.

 

Any progress on getting some dyno numbers?!

 

Your photo is missing