Bridgeport RX8
#201
Almost boosted
iTrader: (3)
The stock car has two, its actually four small ones but they count as two. I add two more. One goes right in between the spark plugs and the other one goes one over past the stock top dowel pin. In the pic you can see the two I add.
These two dowels will prevent the dowel ring land on the front plate from cracking under detonation or extreme power which is the next thing to go after you have strong apex seals or if by some weird reason your stock ones don't break first. When this cracks it starts leaking oil even though it remains running perfect. There is also a modification that is done to these bores to ensure that the load is not concentrated on the surface of the plates...this is my technique and I don't want to let it out of the bag. With the extra dowels and modifications....you can pretty much boost it past 30psi if you like and have enough fuel without any issues.
Chris
These two dowels will prevent the dowel ring land on the front plate from cracking under detonation or extreme power which is the next thing to go after you have strong apex seals or if by some weird reason your stock ones don't break first. When this cracks it starts leaking oil even though it remains running perfect. There is also a modification that is done to these bores to ensure that the load is not concentrated on the surface of the plates...this is my technique and I don't want to let it out of the bag. With the extra dowels and modifications....you can pretty much boost it past 30psi if you like and have enough fuel without any issues.
Chris
edit: is the water jacket chamber around the two spark plugs modified also ?
Last edited by czar; 06-23-2009 at 09:47 PM.
#209
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
#210
13B-RE
iTrader: (1)
That is the manifold not the downpipe but to answer you question, Perfectly fine That shielding that you see in the pics keeps it from receiving any of the heat from the manifold. Its actually really amazing/impressive stuff. We include enough of that material to wrap the OMP in it...its pretty thick and it works great. My car has had this stuff on it for over 3 years...with no issues....OMP still works great!
Chris
Chris
#212
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
That is the manifold not the downpipe but to answer you question, Perfectly fine That shielding that you see in the pics keeps it from receiving any of the heat from the manifold. Its actually really amazing/impressive stuff. We include enough of that material to wrap the OMP in it...its pretty thick and it works great. My car has had this stuff on it for over 3 years...with no issues....OMP still works great!
Chris
Chris
Duh I knew that.. Good to know and thanks for the anwser.
So what it the magical adhesive heat shield?
#219
Registered
iTrader: (2)
My only concern would be the Apex end wedge as it passes the bridge port. Removing the rotor housing material to accommodate the ported plate has made an area where the only spot holding it in is the actual bridge between the ports.
Unless of course you put the apex in so that the wedge is on the center cast iron plate. Of course this is only relevant with the rear plate due to the assembly process.
Unless of course you put the apex in so that the wedge is on the center cast iron plate. Of course this is only relevant with the rear plate due to the assembly process.
#220
13B-RE
iTrader: (1)
My only concern would be the Apex end wedge as it passes the bridge port. Removing the rotor housing material to accommodate the ported plate has made an area where the only spot holding it in is the actual bridge between the ports.
Unless of course you put the apex in so that the wedge is on the center cast iron plate. Of course this is only relevant with the rear plate due to the assembly process.
Unless of course you put the apex in so that the wedge is on the center cast iron plate. Of course this is only relevant with the rear plate due to the assembly process.
1. I only bridged the front and rear plates which means that the housings are only chamfered where they meet the front and rear plate.
2. I installed the apex seals for the rear rotor with the wedge towards the center plate which has no bridge... (yes it was a PITA but its doable...)
This way I was able to go with substantial bridge and "eyebrow" without worry of the apex seal getting caught or the bridge being to thin because of attempting to keep the housing untouched...
its like the best of both worlds..
Chris...
p.s....she runs....
#224
13B-RE
iTrader: (1)
Holy crap guys!...chill...she runs but I have some bugs to work out...
she has a small fuel leak probably from a pinched injector o ring and the tune I had barely allows it to start up and run....
I have lots of work to do to it before I can record an idle for you guys...
I'll keep you posted...
I did get to hear the "brap brap brap"for a little bit though..before I noticed the leak...
whowhooot!
Chris
p.s. believe me...you don't want to see/hear it more than me :D
she has a small fuel leak probably from a pinched injector o ring and the tune I had barely allows it to start up and run....
I have lots of work to do to it before I can record an idle for you guys...
I'll keep you posted...
I did get to hear the "brap brap brap"for a little bit though..before I noticed the leak...
whowhooot!
Chris
p.s. believe me...you don't want to see/hear it more than me :D
#225
BDC Motorsports
My only concern would be the Apex end wedge as it passes the bridge port. Removing the rotor housing material to accommodate the ported plate has made an area where the only spot holding it in is the actual bridge between the ports.
Unless of course you put the apex in so that the wedge is on the center cast iron plate. Of course this is only relevant with the rear plate due to the assembly process.
Unless of course you put the apex in so that the wedge is on the center cast iron plate. Of course this is only relevant with the rear plate due to the assembly process.
B