erx8s

I also have gone through one stock cat and one supposedly stainless steel bullet proof Metalcat..........

As MM said nothing out there can whitstand those high temperatures .


Cheers
Michael

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Even if the entire honeycomb is made of ceramic, it will out-gas all of the catalyst binder after sustained 2000° active loads.
The rhodium/palladium/platinum will just go out as dust.

I suppose someone out there could make the entire CAT honeycomb out of palladium.
That would be one really expensive CAT.

slavearm

What makes you think I used any low cost solution? I used literally just about every CAT made for the RX8. From random to bonez to steelcat. I shipped my car to Florida to have it tuned by Scott, and pimped the mazsport Type I. What makes you think I do anything cheap or without quality parts?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

He just means you didn't pay someone for a completely custom made CAT with untenable durability claims.

rotorocks

Jeff, I will do so the first chance I get.

rotorocks

Here it is:

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Wow. That is really conservative timing.
Sufficient, but conservative.
At 6k RPM and 10 PSI of boost, you are running only 3° of leading advance and the trailing at +9° ATDC.

In the same range, I run about 12°.

rotorocks

Yep, and i can't tell what the deal is, because it begins to ping.
Ever since I moved to Coral Springs here... I donno, local gas stations must be getting their petrol from different distributor... So pretty much I run it as aggressive I can get it.

Hmm, just for kick and giggles, next time I am in West Palm on an empty tank, I'll fill up, and try to get it more aggressive. Curious, how much I can get out of it?
I remember, last year sometime, I posted my ignition maps, and you were like "WOW gas must be nice down there..."

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Well, one thing you can do is run less split at the torque peak.
You are gradually closing the split as you go up and you actually want to increase it at the torque peak and gradually reduce it to either side.

Here are the last timing MAPs I had on my Int-X:

rotorocks

Jeff
I changed it to be closer to what you suggested (split wise), and advanced the ignition too by about 3 - 5 degrees overall. No pings! noticeably more responsive, even the sound changed and became more aggressive. Will try a little more tomorrow. +2-3 more maybe..

Thanx for the tip.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Be careful with the split.
You don't need more timing that 5° - 9° at 6000 RPM and full boost. 12° is probably the maximum on shitty gas.
Just keep the split at maximum (15°) there.
You can, up to a point, make more power by reducing the split - even to zero - but you have to be real methodical in getting there.

rotorocks

I am leaving the 6K area alone at the 8 degrees at 10 PSI, but I advanced some more 2000 - 4500 rpm, and everywhere else in boost.
Yes, to be safe, I pushed the split up to 15 at 5.5-6K for now.

Somehow I always looked at the t_gap screen from a different angle. I thought it works the opposite way.
ooh well, I am still learning.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

The wider the gap, the more retarded the trailing timing is.
Remember where the trailing plug is relative to TDC. Having it fire at the same time as the leading is more or less like having the leading firing 15° sooner (15° of advance).

rotorocks

I get the picture now