mysql

ps: don't PM me the same thing you post here :P

ChattyRX8

Sorry, was excited and wanted to get the new bov installed before I have to go to work. Thanks for answering so quickly though!

Kane

iTrader: (1)

Be sure to use the set screws correctly; ie mark once your BOV is clocked; take the flange off and drill a small indent where the set screw will go.

ChattyRX8

I'm not sure what you mean by this, Kane. I don't think I have to drill any holes. The welded on GReddy flange stays on the pipe. Synapse was thoughtful enough to make adapter mounts for their Synchronic to fit on flanges that have already been welded on. All I have to do is unbolt the RS and bolt on the Synchronic.... right?
I wasn't able to find a filter to go on the recirc fitting today anyway. I went to 4 parts stores and nobody had one. I had to get one off eBay so it will be another few days before it gets here and I get to do the install.
Hey, mysql, what do I do with nipple "c" on the synchronic? I know I tee "a" and "b" together, but what's up with "c?" The instructions don't say anything about it... cap it?... hook it up to boost only source? thanks

Kane

iTrader: (1)

C is boost only.

The set screws are the little allen screws that hold the BOV to the Greddy adapter flange. Those need to "bite" better by having an indent (thus the drilling).

Check the Synapse forums (on their site) for better info as well.

As for filter - for the FD; we used some foam cut from an air-int filter (like the one that comes stock in the greddy kit) and sandwiched it in between the BOV and the recric fitting.

mysql

Boost only C nipple would take a vacuum tube from your compressor side of the turbo (like your wastegate gets, but before any boost controller). Supposedly this is required once you're going over 8-10 psi to make sure there is no compressor surge ... but I would recommend doing this only if you are recirculating, as the end result of this is that the BOV will not clamp shut till -10 inHg instead of the normal -15 inHg. On the reverse side, when you're coming out of boost, the bov will vent sooner than later, so I can see why it works better with this mode in tact. With boost only hooked up and if you vent to atmosphere, until you reach -10 inHg, the air is venting out and you do not get much gains in power even though your turbo is starting to compress air.

You do not NEED to use any nipple. You can go with A, B, OR C, or A + C, B + C, A + B, etc. Mess with it and see what responds best for you.

mysql

easiest is to hook up the A + B, and if you hear compressor surge immediately after getting out of boost, then worry about using C to prevent it.

ChattyRX8

So if I'm starting with A+B, just leave C open, or cap it? thanks.

mysql

uncapped. You don't need to seal any of the nipples on the bov.

ChattyRX8

Today I got my K&N filter for the Synapse BOV. I think the part # is RU0220. Anyway, so I was ready to install the Synapse Engineering Synchronic BOV to replace the GReddy Type RS.
Removing the GReddy was simple... disconnected the vacuum line, and unbolted the BOV from the flange.
Installing the Synchronic was a bit more challenging. I had pre-mounted the bov onto the GReddy flange adapter. When I set this into place I soon found out that the allen-head bolts wouldn't fit with the bov attached to the adapter. So I had to remove the bov from the adapter, and mount the adapter to the flange first. Here's a pic of the adapter installed on the flange.

After the adapter was securely mounted to the flange, I mounted the Synchronic. Last thing to do was make all the new vacuum line connections. The Synchronic has 3 nipples: 2 on the back for vacuum source, and 1 on the side for boost only source. I used the original hose that was attached to the GReddy and t'd it to connect to the vacuum ports on the back of the bov. I used a nipple located on the charge pipe about 18" from the turbo for my boost only source.
I checked everything for kinks and zipties, then took it out for a test drive. WOW, the Synchronic is awesome! Completely eliminated my compressor surge at any PSI. I don't know if it's my imagination or not, but it seems so much easier to hit 9PSI with this bov than with the GReddy. Throttle response is also better.
The Synchronic is a whole lot quieter than the GReddy though. Even with the windows down I could only hear it above 3PSI.
I'll be taking apart the Type RS soon to see why I was getting surge. Maybe it was sticking and needs to be lubed?
Oh well, pic of final install And yes, those are green zipties... it's all I have at the moment so just pretend they're black.

mysql

The synchronic is really great if you value performance above all else.

If you're using MAF, then you really need to recirculate as I couldn't get the anti stall stuff to function properly on my car.

I recently tried out a friend's type-s bov on my car, and while I was initially happy to hear the bov sound again, the drivability went way down. Popping noises on decel could be fixed by clamping down the bov, but then it's not opening up in the lower psi ranges where there would still be surge.

Tonight I'll be reinstalling the synchronic.

ChattyRX8

Int-X = maps = I don't need to recirc. I might try it though just to see if there's any performance difference.

mysql

yeah, no ****. I mentioned it because people read a small snippet of text then base everything on that without further investigating. So I always qualify what I say.

I don't think you'll see any improvement with recirculating on the int-x. You will of course see an improvement going to the accessport, but that's another matter.

ChattyRX8

I know that you know that Int-X is map-based, but maybe others reading don't.
So now my next step is deciding what route to go to get more power. My end goal is over 300whp without replacing the entire drivetrain. Logical options are: 3071 turbo, mazsport midpipe with aftermarket exhaust, mazsport fuel pump upgrade, mazsport intercooler upgrade, or ignition upgrade.
All of these options are fairly expensive, and there's no way the wife will let me get away with doing them all at the same time.
I think I can narrow it down to exhaust and fuel being the most logical to do first. Any suggestions?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

one gets an inkling that you're not a big Mazsport fan .....

05rex8

iTrader: (7)

^elaborate, or point me to the thread that does

Grouch

I have the popping noises on decel, but am using the HKS ssqv. damn, I don't think I can adjust anything on mine. Does that mean poppin noises are here to stay? Mine is recirculated. Thanks.