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I had BC V1 coilovers (reds). I think the BR series (golds) may be an updated revision of the reds, but not too sure. Main motivation for my purchase was for adjustable ride height as I wanted it lower but am pretty fussy about rubbing. I side benefit was improved handling. Handling was definitely improved, even with significantly less travel. I wouldn't describe the ride as harsh, but it was quite firm, particularly with the mid-sized bumps...reducing the damping probably would have sorted that out nicely. I didn't play around too much with the adjustable damping but wish I had in hindsight - might have learned something. In short, my opinion is that BCs are great value for money and I don't think you'd be disappointed with them. If I were considering more track work/competition I'd probably be looking at the more expensive Ohlins, based purely on their reputation.
quality, superior design, balance and comfort yet outstanding handling, lots of satisfied reviews and praises if you research it on here, the best street system for the RX8 by far, yet gets you to within about 80% of a true track setup on performance
Team, Thanks. Yes, I've read positive reviews..., and in fact you're not the first to recommend Ohlins. I don't doubt the superior quality, design, etc.; and will keep them in mind; but believe they m/b more than I need.
I had BC V1 coilovers (reds). I think the BR series (golds) may be an updated revision of the reds, but not too sure. Main motivation for my purchase was for adjustable ride height as I wanted it lower but am pretty fussy about rubbing. I side benefit was improved handling. Handling was definitely improved, even with significantly less travel. I wouldn't describe the ride as harsh, but it was quite firm, particularly with the mid-sized bumps...reducing the damping probably would have sorted that out nicely. I didn't play around too much with the adjustable damping but wish I had in hindsight - might have learned something. In short, my opinion is that BCs are great value for money and I don't think you'd be disappointed with them. If I were considering more track work/competition I'd probably be looking at the more expensive Ohlins, based purely on their reputation.
Jimmy, Thanks for the response, and I learned a lot from your build thread. Appreciate the review of the BCs.
well I obviously have a strong opinion on it more than usual even, but have been doing competition shocks for many years and learned a few things along the way. Most people under-appreciate the differences, but in a way you might understand it best, after what you’ve done and experienced would you be inclined to recommend any to go buy a new Greddy turbo kit compared to what you have now? It’s not just soft vs stiff any more than a turbo kit is just 9 psi vs 16 psi. There’s a lot more too it than that in both cases.
Which btw, you should be proud for what you did and accomplished here. Most of these threads come and go, or rather fade away either never fully completed or half-hazardly if they do finally pull it off. This is a fine example and one of the rare few who saw it through and did it right all they way. Congratulations.
Who are you...and what have you done with Team?
Seriously, thanks I appreciate that. It's been a great journey. I've learned a good deal, h/b helped directly or indirectly by so many on the forum, and yes very pleased w/ the result.
You make a solid point re: the nuanced technical advantages / differences among hardware and kits. Yet, If someone asked me about buying Greddy vs. RX8P kit, I'd ask about their budget and goals. Despite the RX8P kit being "superior"..., based on their b&g's, I may recommend the Greddy. Of course, if b&g's support..., I'd recommend the superior kit. Same reason not many install the $6k Motons, right? Most times it's about finding the right balance and fit...for the person...at that time.
I actually pulled the trigger today on a set of coilovers.
Cool drawing Curtis! ...
1/...
2/...
3/Signal line for ebc shouldn't be post throttle (my personal preference)
Originally Posted by jcbrx8
...
3/Signal line for ebc shouldn't be post throttle (my personal preference) - Curt: Well that's where mine is currently plumbed. I recall reading a discussion arguing for plumbing pre or post throttle body. I took away from it that post TB was better as it conveys the "actual" MAP, i.e. boost AND vacuum, the engine sees. Whereas pre TB only sees boost ...and sometimes elevated d/t delayed BOV &/or WG action. What am I missing?
...
Originally Posted by Brettus
...
3/Yes ...but you are controlling the turbo with your EBC...not the engine. And what is happening to the turbo is only relevant pre throttle, when throttle is closed or partially closed ...
Originally Posted by Brettus
...Where you would notice it most is halfway around a corner (especially an uphill corner) ............ when trying to modulate between full and partial throttle.
I've actually talked to Greddy turbo guys that have gone off the road in this situation because of the violent on/off nature of the throttle...
Captured this beauty on my AEM last night: ..."WOT - partial throttle - WOT again" scenario...~9 to 15 psi spike!
Scenario: Hwy entrance ramp...4th car back..., bounced to the passing lane as soon as on the hwy, and accelerated. 2nd car in line started into the passing lane...(in their defense probably didn't expect my acceleration). Regardless, I slowed... they saw me ...retreated back to the slow lane, and I got back on it.
. .
Thinking it thru...this was definitely causing pre-TB spiking..., placing unnecessary stress on my charge sections..., and likely contributing to my earlier difficulty keeping a proper seal at the throttle body. Smh.
Resolved. Re-plumbed EBC control line today...w/ the swiftness ... between the last charge section and WG solenoid on the firewall.
First impressions after moving the EBC control line pre-TB is... I should have done this earlier. She's driving like a friggin' jet: powerful..., and smooth..., smoother. And I'm not sure why...I expected to resolve the spiking situation, but it "feels" like something more is going on.
But when I first checked peak boost on my Profec... it read ~16 psi. . I thought that can't be right...I'm only running settings which should generate ~12. So, I did another gentle pull ...while watching my AEM, and saw it reliably, and correctly drove to 12 psi...which I trust. So, currently my Profec is reading ~25% high on boost. I'm going to check the size hose I pulled when re-plumbing the Profec ....(previously they were split w/ a "T" off the same line). I'm thinking it has to be an issue w/ it's I.D.
So, of course, I haven't done any spike testing as yet.
Peak boost isn't actual ...because when you close the throttle suddenly the boost pre throttle spikes for an instant.
Yes, that makes sense. I pulled a 3 mm, and was about to swap in a 4mm control line which is the I.D. specified w/the unit. But If it's registering boost properly ...except the spiking on close throttle...it'll save me the trouble. Thanks.
Edit: ...and the AEM isn't catching the spike b/c it's still post-TB.
- My Profec is currently under-reading boost by ~2 psi relative to my trusted AEM...likely d/t to me using too small an I.D. control line. I'll swap the 3mm for a 4mm I.D. hose tomorrow.
- My current Profec settings generate ~0.5 psi higher boost compared to boost levels prior to replumbing the EBC control line pre-TB. I'll need to recalibrate / fine-tune my Profec ...to desired boost levels.
Bro, Tho I'd already pulled the trigger on my coilovers...., thanks anyway for searching out the "deal". But on the concept of "enough"..., we agree.
Originally Posted by jcbrx8
... If someone asked me about buying Greddy vs. RX8P kit, I'd ask about their budget and goals. Despite the RX8P kit being "superior"..., based on their b&g's, I may recommend the Greddy. Of course, if b&g's support..., I'd recommend the superior kit. ...Most times it's about finding the right balance and fit...for the person...at that time....
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
... More is not always better... Enough is just right.
- My Profec is currently under-reading boost by ~2 psi relative to my trusted AEM...likely d/t to me using too small an I.D. control line. I'll swap the 3mm for a 4mm I.D. hose tomorrow.
- My current Profec settings generate ~0.5 psi higher boost compared to boost levels prior to replumbing the EBC control line pre-TB. I'll need to recalibrate / fine-tune my Profec ...to desired boost levels.
So, right off... moving the EBC control line pre-TB was definitely an improvement to the system..., but invalidating the Profec's peak boost function is a significant loss. Now the only way to know boost levels real-time is to actually look at my AEM gauge during boosted runs, ...or wait till I get to the house and download the AEM data. Not ideal.
My brass reducing tee EBC nipple was too small for the 4mm hose. So, I swapped in the 4mm control line w/ a temp mock up using a plastic tee and reducer. The results h/b... bewildering:
The Profec still seems to be under-reporting boost by 1-2 psi
Some runs are defaulting to WG spring pressure.
I'm at a loss atm. The Profec calls for a 4mm line...so it's definitely getting sufficient boost thru the control line. I've dbl checked that all the connections are secure, and nothing is pinched, but boost is still inconsistent atm.
Any thoughts?
Edit: Swapped in my new brass tee for the temp plastic mock-up:
The peak boost function isn't even accurate when line is post throttle,so no great loss. This was how it was on my system anyway.
*My Profec has always shown a variance of approx 1psi to the boost gauge also.
*Defaulting to spring pressure implies solenoid not activating . Try manually (via compressor) applying pressure to controller and listen for solenoid activation to test.
The peak boost function isn't even accurate when line is post throttle,so no great loss. This was how it was on my system anyway.
*My Profec has always shown a variance of approx 1psi to the boost gauge also.
*Defaulting to spring pressure implies solenoid not activating . Try manually (via compressor) applying pressure to controller and listen for solenoid activation to test.
Granted...though my Profec used to read ~ 1 psi low, it was consistent; and w/ no close throttle spiking ... peak boost was still useful for real-time Profec tuning. I'll just need remember glance at the AEM.
Also I realized that I'd not raised my "WARNING" setting to accommodate the spiking...so reset it to 18 psi. Really dislike setting it that high.
Need to do more driving / testing..., but good idea... if intermittent activity continues I'll test the solenoid.
I haven't ever noticed that spike cutting boost for some reason ...
Good to know... thanks. If testing validates that..., I'll reduce WARNING back to my original setting: "desired boost + 2 psi". IMV having WARNING set at 18+ psi defeats it's purpose.
I haven't ever noticed that spike cutting boost for some reason ...
I noticed it slightly on my old setup, but nothing crazy, I was targeting 9PSI and was seeing warnings of about 10.5PSI sometimes under the right circumstances.
I noticed it slightly on my old setup, but nothing crazy, I was targeting 9PSI and was seeing warnings of about 10.5PSI sometimes under the right circumstances.
Jesse, Thanks for the sanity check. I'm just going to slow it down, drive as-is a bit, and gain a better understanding of exactly what's going on.
Sorry to hear of the oil, & idle issues you're having. All the best on getting them sorted out.
Made an initial swag on the height setting based on the OEMs I pulled out, and damping is initially set at 18 of 32 clicks from full soft.
Though late and tired... went for a short spin, and man she feels...different..., good: firmer, more planted, minimumal to no body roll, and very smooth at hwy speed. I definitely feel more of the road, but not in a harsh way. Plan is to let the c/o's settle over the next week, then adjust to final height of ~1/2" fender to wheel all round. Initial swag was not too far off...currently sitting at ~1" gap all around.
While at it I replaced the worm clamps at the compressor outlet just on the comp side w/ a t-bolt type as they had popped, re-snugged the others, and rotated my tires.
. Pre-load set
. Prep
. Prep 2
. C/O's in
.
Done
.
Update: BR Series C/O Installation & Initial Impressions:
Installation:
The BR Series Coilovers were pretty much plug n play out of the box: set pre-load and height, no swapping top hats or springs from the existing units. Setting pre-load took ~ 5 min each, and installation was straight-forward...even installing solo...w/ no power or air tools. Thankfully, I didn't encounter any seized nuts or bolts.
Initial Performance impressions:
I initially set damping at 18 of 32 clicks from full soft, and h/b driving, and feeling out handling and performance. Though I believe damping is pretty close to ideal for my tastes, I was curious how perceptible slight damping adjustments would be. So, I decreased damping four clicks all round, and drove a bit. Well, for any wondering... adjusting 4 of 32 clicks was very noticeable. The driving performance transformed from what I'd characterize as firm-sport to luxury sedan-like. So, I pulled over, increased damping two clicks, and performance perceptibly moved to a good compromise between firm-sport and luxury sedan-like. Atm I have damping set at 17 of 32 clicks up from full soft.
I don't yet know where I'll settle on damping, but can attest that the per click adjustment on the BRs is quite discernible in performance.
Update: Completed some minor tidy work: resolving a leak at the oil pan turbo drain bung.
The first pic below is the original design using a -10AN bung fitting threaded into the pan, which was also unfortunately positioned so as to be in contact with and agitated by the large under brace, which caused recurring oil leaks.
Resolution: Had a -10AN bung welded in, and ground down the under-brace to eliminate contact w/ the bung. The pan is reinstalled...Permatex is curing, and w/b ready for oil tomorrow. no more oil leaks.
. Original -10AN fitting threaded into the pan, and in contact w/ the under brace.
. -10AN bung welded in
. Ready for re-installation...
Project Stop Oil Leak is a success so far. Refilled oil this morning and went for a morning cruise. I've not reinstalled the brace yet ...wanting to ensure there's no add'l leaking from the bung or any other source. But w/ no evidence of leaking at this point... I believe the bung was the only source, and h/b resolved. I'll reinstall the brace later today..., but having created clearance...don't expect any issue there.
As an aside this was my first time using Pineapple's pre-fabricated gasket (shown above). It made installation much easier: thin smear of Permatex Grey on the pan, apply gasket, thin smear of P-Grey on the mating block surface , and bolted her up.
07-13-2020, 08:54 PM
more than usual even, but have been doing competition shocks for many years and learned a few things along the way. Most people under-appreciate the differences, but in a way you might understand it best, after what you’ve done and experienced would you be inclined to recommend any to go buy a new Greddy turbo kit compared to what you have now? It’s not just soft vs stiff any more than a turbo kit is just 9 psi vs 16 psi. There’s a lot more too it than that in both cases.
... between the last charge section and WG solenoid on the firewall. 
She's driving like a friggin' jet: powerful..., and smooth..., smoother. And I'm not sure why...I expected to resolve the spiking situation, but it "feels" like something more is going on.
Setting pre-load took ~ 5 min each, and installation was straight-forward...even installing solo...w/ no power or air tools. Thankfully, I didn't encounter any seized nuts or bolts. 
