Definitive Greddy Turbo Fixes - Here they are
#176
Thanks.
I was searching the web during the afternoon including ebay, but missed this one. I also talked to a rebuilder who listed a unit for the RX8, but when I was talking to him he didn't even have the schematics to rebuild a RX8 ECU. He did give me some info on the numbers on the computer. Mine is N3H6 18881G - he said numbers ending 9 are dealer replacements - for what it's worth.
I was searching the web during the afternoon including ebay, but missed this one. I also talked to a rebuilder who listed a unit for the RX8, but when I was talking to him he didn't even have the schematics to rebuild a RX8 ECU. He did give me some info on the numbers on the computer. Mine is N3H6 18881G - he said numbers ending 9 are dealer replacements - for what it's worth.
#177
Originally Posted by mikefrombarrie
Heres a schematic of the Turbo layout for the 8,
Have a look if I got it right?
Have a look if I got it right?
#178
Ok I´ve been reading this thread over and over trying to get a grip of how to connect the hoses to my Profec B Spec-II boostcontroller.
As far as I see it, there are 3 hoses to connect... com-port, no-port and the hose from the main unit inside the car. Can someone PLEASE explain where to connect these?
Pictures would be great! Thanx alot.
As far as I see it, there are 3 hoses to connect... com-port, no-port and the hose from the main unit inside the car. Can someone PLEASE explain where to connect these?
Pictures would be great! Thanx alot.
#180
Yes they are.... The only "problem" I´m having is to find the point where to connect the hose from the main unit. In the manual it says "connect to the fuel pressure regultator" wich I cannot find. But when looking at the first pic you attached it seems like it connects to the hose where the bov connected. Am I right... The pressure is the one for the e-manage, right? (Just to be 100% clear)
Thanks for your help MM! Highly appreciated!
Thanks for your help MM! Highly appreciated!
#181
Yes. Just split the E-Manage pressure sensor signal hose with a vacuum "T". Sens that to the pressure sensor for the boost controller.
Hook the "NO" connection to a fitting as indicated in the fixes at the top of the thread.
Hook the "NO" connection to a fitting as indicated in the fixes at the top of the thread.
#183
Just for anyone who is interested,my car is now on the road with aGreddy kit,severed P2 injectors,Mad Dogs map #13 and the R flash.It idles well,runs well,transitions well to boost.The only thing I do not like is some backfire in the exhaust on the overrun.I am only boosting to 32kpa(say 5psi) but the acceleration is explosive by comparison.Now for a period of tuning and boost increase.
Ps I should say thanks to Mad Dog and Benny at Greddy who helped wth the Greddy Support Tool.
Ps I should say thanks to Mad Dog and Benny at Greddy who helped wth the Greddy Support Tool.
#184
Wow. You have the R flash?
I thought that severing the P2's might help those with the R flash, but I think you might be the first to try it. Glad to hear initial results are promising. Keep us posted!
-MD
I thought that severing the P2's might help those with the R flash, but I think you might be the first to try it. Glad to hear initial results are promising. Keep us posted!
-MD
#185
NOW this is getting interesting... I have te R flash as well and have had some smaller issues running it. Next visit to the garage I´ll definately cut off those wires! But of all the maps that has been posted, wich one is Mad Dogs #13?
By the way, I replaced the stock cat with the SR Motorsports cat, and it sounds freaking awesome!
By the way, I replaced the stock cat with the SR Motorsports cat, and it sounds freaking awesome!
#186
It is post#97 on this thread.For comparison I am running the factory cat with the new Mazdaspeed cat-back.For those who suffer "drone' with the new Mazdaspeed catback,it can be solved by adding a turbo!
#187
Wow I'm really surprised it works so well with the R flash. I thought Benny had said that required some kind of hardware change. I'm even more surprised that you're able to use the same map that was setup for the M flash. What are your AFR's?
#188
I have not got that far yet.I spent my time trying to set up my home made cold air intake where the K&N filter can be cleaned without removing the front bumper---unfortunately it does not idle worth a damn so I have reverted to Airinx while I think about it somemore.
The weather up here is not suitable for testing yet,when I was out Friday it was about 35F and my Dunlops are dodgy under those conditions.
W hat I can say is it idles absolutely flat at 820rpm,lambda is 0.999+/-0.005,(that Mazda ecu is great!),my cruise control still works,drivability is very good,transition to boost is transparent(you need the gauge),I am developing significant boost at 2200rpm due probably to my recycle valve set up and then it is virtually seamless up to 7500rpm.My LTFT and STFT have not changed and are at 0%.
It is way faster than either of my TIIs were acceleration wise and drivability is about the same so far.
I will post lambda values when I do some real testing.
The weather up here is not suitable for testing yet,when I was out Friday it was about 35F and my Dunlops are dodgy under those conditions.
W hat I can say is it idles absolutely flat at 820rpm,lambda is 0.999+/-0.005,(that Mazda ecu is great!),my cruise control still works,drivability is very good,transition to boost is transparent(you need the gauge),I am developing significant boost at 2200rpm due probably to my recycle valve set up and then it is virtually seamless up to 7500rpm.My LTFT and STFT have not changed and are at 0%.
It is way faster than either of my TIIs were acceleration wise and drivability is about the same so far.
I will post lambda values when I do some real testing.
#191
Originally Posted by MadDog
Wow. You have the R flash?
I thought that severing the P2's might help those with the R flash, but I think you might be the first to try it. Glad to hear initial results are promising. Keep us posted!
-MD
I thought that severing the P2's might help those with the R flash, but I think you might be the first to try it. Glad to hear initial results are promising. Keep us posted!
-MD
The P2s are independant and the secondaries can't do much to get around that.
#192
Just one other thought---I am running with a restriction orifice in the signal hose to the Greddy pressure sensor.From my TII days this device was essential for smooth operation--I just used a TII one I had in my bit box.
#193
Originally Posted by two rotors
Just one other thought---I am running with a restriction orifice in the signal hose to the Greddy pressure sensor.From my TII days this device was essential for smooth operation--I just used a TII one I had in my bit box.
#194
Well I did not actually measure it ,but it is supposed to be 0.5mm,say roughly 0.020 inches.I only use one sensor for the e-manage and the e-01 boost controller.The boost display on the e-01 is very stable.
#195
Originally Posted by TurboX8
Do you know the size of the restrictor you're - I'm using .040" (#60 drill) on both the line to the GReddy sensor and the actuator.
#196
The TII is a second generation RX-7.
The restrictor that is being discussed causes the vacuum/pressure signal from the manifold to the E-Manage and/or boost controller to be smoother and more predictable by reducing its volume.
The restrictor that is being discussed causes the vacuum/pressure signal from the manifold to the E-Manage and/or boost controller to be smoother and more predictable by reducing its volume.
#197
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
The TII is a second generation RX-7.
The restrictor that is being discussed causes the vacuum/pressure signal from the manifold to the E-Manage and/or boost controller to be smoother and more predictable by reducing its volume.
The restrictor that is being discussed causes the vacuum/pressure signal from the manifold to the E-Manage and/or boost controller to be smoother and more predictable by reducing its volume.
Edit:
Did a massive search (exaggerating) and I learned that its also called a pill and an orifice, I still cant find a part # and exactly were this thing is installed and how does it work? Sorry for all the questions but I’m an information fiend.
Edit:
Last edited by Daver; 03-28-2006 at 12:57 AM.
#198
Just another fix - I'll post it elsewhere as well:
Switch the first rotary switch inside the E-Manage from "B" to "8" and all four ignition circuits become active.
This means, you can wire the ignition harness and control timing on the leading AND trailing plugs.
I don't know why I didn't try this sooner.
This doesn't seem to affect any other aspects of the E-Manage operation and the RPM is still correct.
Switch the first rotary switch inside the E-Manage from "B" to "8" and all four ignition circuits become active.
This means, you can wire the ignition harness and control timing on the leading AND trailing plugs.
I don't know why I didn't try this sooner.
This doesn't seem to affect any other aspects of the E-Manage operation and the RPM is still correct.
#199
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Just another fix - I'll post it elsewhere as well:
Switch the first rotary switch inside the E-Manage from "B" to "8" and all four ignition circuits become active.
This means, you can wire the ignition harness and control timing on the leading AND trailing plugs.
I don't know why I didn't try this sooner.
This doesn't seem to affect any other aspects of the E-Manage operation and the RPM is still correct.
Switch the first rotary switch inside the E-Manage from "B" to "8" and all four ignition circuits become active.
This means, you can wire the ignition harness and control timing on the leading AND trailing plugs.
I don't know why I didn't try this sooner.
This doesn't seem to affect any other aspects of the E-Manage operation and the RPM is still correct.