I've done some research regarding a Greddy kit install. It's been stated the kit is designed as an entry-level package that can be upgraded later on. That makes it sound like there are a few additional items that are good to have and nice to have.

Good to have:

• Boost controller
• Recirculated blow-off valve
• Boost pressure and oil temp gauges
• Ceramic coating for intake manifold, turbo housing and exhaust downpipe to block heat radiation

Nice to have:

• Turbo timer
• Greddy oil pan
• Oil pressure and water temp gauges
• Ceramic coating for all intake pipes to block heat radiation
• Ceramic coating for oil pan and intercooler to promote heat radiation
• Racing Beat REVi intake (assuming it can be adapted to the Greddy kit)
• Racing Beat metering oil pump modification
• High flow cat (requires retuning eManage)

Adding all these items easily doubles the total cost but I think they are important enough to consider. I will add most if not all when the time comes to turbo my car.
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If these extras double the cost of the kit, wouldn't it just be easier to go with a kit that delivers more power out of the box like SSR?

 

The add-ons I listed were intended more for reliability than raw HP. Furthermore I don't consider SSR's offering a complete kit--without fuel management it seems dangerously half-baked.

SSR boasted almost a year ago that they planned to produce a turbo kit for the RX-8, posted some pictures of the turbo bolted on, and then fell silent after saying the next step was to work on fuel management. Now they announce the kit is ready for sale, but fuel management is an extra cost option. That doesn't give me any warm fuzzies.
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oil catch can

 

I see your point. I guess I should clarify. What I meant was why not think about spending the extra money for something that may have more potential. It may take more time to get the money together, but in the long run may be worth it. SSR is the only other kit available right now, correct? Or is PTP's available for sale? I hear A-Spec's turbo kit comes out this summer.

And yeah, the lack of engine management concerns me also.

 

I agree with you on replacing greddy's air filter with the Racing Beat REVi intake but I highly doubt it'll fit. The tube that connects to the intake is lower and at an angle compared to stock. Also the piping with the BOV on it looks like it would be in the way for the RB box to fit.
I'm thinking of replacing the cheap greddy "sponge" filter with a universal k&n one, found at this site. I just need to do some measurements.

 

I'm hopeful the REVi will fit, but I agree it will take some work. My guess is the intercooler to engine pipe will need to be (re)fabricated so it angles more to the right if it's to fit at all. We'll see.

With a boost controller and BOV I'm not sure if a catch can is necessary. I thought about it but part of the reason I didn't include is is with the REVi box I'm not sure where it could be mounted.

SSR's larger turbo means more lag. I like the fact Greddy's kit spools up so quickly.
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Well, here's my plan for my GReddy

1. Custom 80mm exhaust - most of the exhausts out there are designed for NA applications. I talked with Racing Beat and they explained that theirs and most others out there aren't as straight flow as many of the other cheaper systems - they said for a turbo application (and this is pretty common knowledge for anyone with a turbo car) that you'd want something at least 3" wide all the way through, and as straight as possible (people normally put bends on NA exhausts to create a little backpressure so you don't lose all your torque). Custom exhausts can run from $500-$800 - well worth it considering a good 80mm straight through should give at least 20 whp on a turbo car.

2. Rotary Performance SuperCAT Midpipe or some sort of custom high flow 3" cat (from Summit Racing - $55, plus piping, gaskets/flanges/hooks/brackets etc)

With the first two you're really just making it safer to up the boost and relieving back pressure.

3. Manual boost controller. Bring it up to 9 psi (which is where I hear the fuel system starts to tap out).

4. GReddy ignition and injector control harnesses - play with the injectors and the ignition timing a bit, use it to add more fuel when the boost is up.

5. 550cc injectors/upgraded fuel pump - let me run more boost

6. FP3065 turbo or something equivalent - these are nice because they run Garrett turbines and dual ball bearing cartridges from the GTxxR series while still fitting inside the Mitsubishi TD06 housing (which is what the GReddy turbo is in) - these are the turbos that most of the Eclipse/3000GT guys go for. These will make insane amounts of power while being able to run low boost. I had a GT3540R on my FD which is equivalent to the FP3052 (GT42R should be the same as FP3065) and let me tell you - it was insane at 11 lbs of boost (the most I ran on the street, the engine and fuel system were good until 20, but after I broke 300 whp at 11 psi I said screwit I can't handle anymore) - my girlfriend was afraid to ride in the car with me because she described the scenery when turbo hit as like the stars flashing by when the ships on Star Trek hit warp.

Other than that I'd just dick around with internals - maybe lightened rotors and a street port - porting my RX-7 made BIG power gains, it should do the same if done proper on the Renesis.

 

You will really only need the boost controller if you plan on going past the stock 7-8 psi of boost. I plan to go to 9 psi. Not really a "good to have" item, unless you plan to turn up the boost.

I'm thinking about going to 440 cc injectors. I'm not sure if running 550 cc's may cause some driveability issues. Since the stock secondaries & primary 2's are supposed to be 380 cc's. Somewhere down the line I will look at porting the engine.

 

The FP3065 turbo sounds interesting but their website makes it sound like an entirely new housing is used because the TD06 has some design compromises. Still if it can work it sounds like a new category of "great to have".

Other people have reported boost surges when letting off the gas and lower than expected boost after getting the latest eManage update. I believe a boost controller would help both situations which is why I put it in the "good to have" category.
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A) The real issue with fitment will be whether it will clear the space, and of course whether its flanged for the exhaust manifold - GReddy using a Mitsubishi flange, any turbo in the Mitsubishi family (16g,20g,Frankensteins,AGP,FPxxxx) will bolt up.

B) The boost surge is because its reading the throttle and rpm positions - to get rid of it tune your map to an electronic boost gauge or boost controller so that its reading boost instead of throttle/rpm - this will smooth things out - its basically what the Profec e-01 was designed to do for the e-Manage, but a lot of the Honda guys just wire an S-AFC up to a GReddy electronic boost gauge.

 

That is part of the design of the kit. It is designed to boost to 7 psi across the rev range & tally off to 5 psi at hi revs. This was originally done as Greddy stated they could not source a coleder spark plug for sustained boost at 7 psi. (don't shoot the messenger).

That being said I have a boost gauge that I am putting because I plan to go beyond the stock 7 psi. I understand why you have it in good to have category.

 

but now the NGK RE8A-L is available, and that's one range colder, correct?

 

They do have that (& also the Denso Iridiums), but not sure how many people have these. I think Greddy is assuming people are just using their regular plugs. With EManage tuning, fuel support & boost controller you should be able to go above the 7 psi (& maintain that boost throughout the rev range).

 

Well canzoomer midp-4 with a 5' cat will make some extra hp...Canzoomer told me that the midp-4 will help me if i want to boost...Also bigger catback pipe...But i believe my greddy with the 65mm pipe is very good if you see that the promo greddy turboe'd 8 has an sp2....

Also all the greddy turbo extras like oil pan and oil catch can and I HOPE THE REVI FEATS CAUSE I LL HAVE MINE NEXT WEEK....:D :D

 

Just as well as i saw this now how to explain all the extra cost of FI to the wife :D

cheers
michael

 

So I am thinking about all my modding options, and it seems like for now, turbo is your best bet. I still plan to wait another 6-12 months to see what develops, and if tuning for the greddy will improve. From what I can tell, nobody has been able to crack the password on the greddy emanage supplied with the turbo. I was just wondering if there was any way around this problem. For instance, I have a canzoomer unit now, could I maybe install the turbo, and use the canzoomer in place of the emanage? They both use the same software right? So maybe if I could upload the stock greddy turbo a/f map into the canzoomer, and have someone tune it specifically for my car from there, I could find a way around the current road block. I know the stock ecu would still be a problem in any case, but I was just wondering if this senario is even an option.

 

The canzoomer basically is an emanage. Either way the default turbo config is locked, which means you can't read it. You have to overwrite it with a non-locked map.
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Does anyone know if the canzoomer unit can be adjusted through small rpm incrimamants or is it basically load based adjusted ?I can get my hands on a canzoomer unit in OZ but, as I wanna go FI, it would be ideal to make AF, ign etc adjustments through the rev range ( every 500 rpm ) ,, Not just upon load ??????

 

How woudl you retrunt he greddy fuel computer? Well, i seem to think that the SSR makes more power and sicne i am already retuning the fuel, should i just go with that? ALso does the SSR require engine modification?