Esmeril Turbo Kit Review & Pics
#302
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,015
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That I do. I saw the car in person. It was merely a thought & why I also put in parenthesis *if possible* in my first post about relocating it. To someone who cares a bit more about aesthetics it might be an option, thats all.
#303
The Professor
Thread Starter
Not in that zip tie location. That top zip tie location only gets say (70-100 C)160-212 degrees from the radiant heat of the turbo. The main reason why I wrapped it at all was to prevent a contact burn if the hose swayed into the hotside of the turbo. The reason why I used those two ties there was because that location(exactly where the ties are) recieves so little heat that doing a proper wrap was not necessary. All that heat shielding in that bay probably cost ~$150, doing a proper wrap on it would waste it from using it someplace where it is more needed.
#304
The Professor
Thread Starter
All-in-All I haven't had a problem with the heat after 500 miles of use. Temps are normal while driving. The hoses are shielded on one side, and water-cooled on the other, they are very unlikely to melt, but the heat differential might make them brittle in a few years, then silicone replacements may be in order.
#305
The Professor
Thread Starter
The INTX does take a VAC/BOOST in hose, so where-ever you put it, it would still need to be accesible to the hose.
#306
RotoRocks Powered
You could relocate it if you wanted to, it would be a pain to extend the stock harness, and would require an adapter like greddy sells so you won't have to cut it up. But with the adapter you could relocate it whereever you wanted(within reason). I actually had to extend my wideband by 8" to get it to reach my gauge pod. Not a big deal to cut and splice in an extension.
The INTX does take a VAC/BOOST in hose, so where-ever you put it, it would still need to be accesible to the hose.
The INTX does take a VAC/BOOST in hose, so where-ever you put it, it would still need to be accesible to the hose.
Love the "5 bazillion" number. That about describes it very accurately.
Last edited by rotorocks; 04-03-2008 at 09:47 AM.
#307
heh. Extending one wire is completely different from extending hundreds. The cost of a boomslang custom made harness is a few hundred bucks, and that's for a short harness.
I don't think anyone is going to be relocating the int-x.
staticlag, eventually you're going to break down and ceramic coat it so no one can bust your chops over zip ties
I don't think anyone is going to be relocating the int-x.
staticlag, eventually you're going to break down and ceramic coat it so no one can bust your chops over zip ties
#308
The Professor
Thread Starter
heh. Extending one wire is completely different from extending hundreds. The cost of a boomslang custom made harness is a few hundred bucks, and that's for a short harness.
I don't think anyone is going to be relocating the int-x.
staticlag, eventually you're going to break down and ceramic coat it so no one can bust your chops over zip ties
I don't think anyone is going to be relocating the int-x.
staticlag, eventually you're going to break down and ceramic coat it so no one can bust your chops over zip ties
Yeah, I was def thinking of ceramic coat, esp since it will keep engine bay temps down a bit. We shall see what the track days this year will say. One thing is for sure, a vented hood is looking pretty good right now. I will probably cut my own used one up.
Assuming something fails:
Zip ties melt:
-I will wire the shield tape or use a metal hose clamp
Temps too high:
-I will buy a turbo blanket
Temps still too high:
-I will buy a vented hood
Temps STILL too high
-Ceramic coat everything and replace oil coolers.
Last edited by staticlag; 04-03-2008 at 09:58 AM.
#310
RotoRocks Powered
#311
The Professor
Thread Starter
#313
13B-RE
iTrader: (1)
What's there to release? It is quite simple, and i was going to try and do this next weekend as a matter of fact.
Basically all you need is a dual port actuator.
One port stays hooked up as is, the other is hooked into the pressure pipe or the side port, whatever...
As boost breaks into positive, it will engage the actuator and open the port, while the other port will work as it used to, and open the actuator when car reaches the 6300 rpm in vac.
Comon you guys with all the mystery...
Basically all you need is a dual port actuator.
One port stays hooked up as is, the other is hooked into the pressure pipe or the side port, whatever...
As boost breaks into positive, it will engage the actuator and open the port, while the other port will work as it used to, and open the actuator when car reaches the 6300 rpm in vac.
Comon you guys with all the mystery...
Hmm... nope, that isn't it. We tried that. the APV wheel that the APV motor actuates on needs to move about 300degress from closed to open. The most you can get from a linear actuator is 170-175Deg if you're lucky and plan it out perfectly. This means it will either not fully close or not fully open. I know this because we tried it.
Although the actual APV sleeves probably only need to move about 180 the shaft that extends outside the LIM isn't a 1:1 ratio with the sleeves. You would either need a rotatory pneumatic actuator(very rare) or solenoid(most don't turn more than 180deg either) or an electronic controller for the stock APV motor that works off a boost signal. The only way to do it with a linear actuator would be for the actuator to push on a 1:2 transmission that in turn rotates the APV shaft. This will probably prove to be too complicated and bulky to fit in the available space considering the DP is nearby.
We are working on an electronic solution. I'll keep everyone updated
Chris
Last edited by ChrisRX8PR; 04-03-2008 at 10:28 AM.
#314
13B-RE
iTrader: (1)
Actually a mechanical actuator could work and would be ideal but when you remove the APV motor you can tell it needs to move more than what a linear actuator can move it. We'll see where this takes us.....
Keep up the good work
Chris
#315
RotoRocks Powered
Haha, you got to it before I posted about it.
Actually a mechanical actuator could work and would be ideal but when you remove the APV motor you can tell it needs to move more than what a linear actuator can move it. We'll see where this takes us.....
Keep up the good work
Chris
Actually a mechanical actuator could work and would be ideal but when you remove the APV motor you can tell it needs to move more than what a linear actuator can move it. We'll see where this takes us.....
Keep up the good work
Chris
#318
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Omaha
Posts: 1,015
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#319
RotoRocks Powered
Actually anything longer than what it is is already is that much too long.
The length of it curently is kinda long too, if you think about it, especially if you are using a fast spooling turbo, like greddy. The longer the hose is the higher the chance that the pressure wave traveling through it will be distorted by the hose expancion and the time it takes for the signal to reach the sensor. Yes eventually it catches up, but for that fraction of a second that it takes for everyting to react, your rotors may have made a few combustion cycles with lean mixture.
The length of it curently is kinda long too, if you think about it, especially if you are using a fast spooling turbo, like greddy. The longer the hose is the higher the chance that the pressure wave traveling through it will be distorted by the hose expancion and the time it takes for the signal to reach the sensor. Yes eventually it catches up, but for that fraction of a second that it takes for everyting to react, your rotors may have made a few combustion cycles with lean mixture.
#320
The Professor
Thread Starter
Actually anything longer than what it is is already is that much too long.
The length of it curently is kinda long too, if you think about it, especially if you are using a fast spooling turbo, like greddy. The longer the hose is the higher the chance that the pressure wave traveling through it will be distorted by the hose expancion and the time it takes for the signal to reach the sensor. Yes eventually it catches up, but for that fraction of a second that it takes for everyting to react, your rotors may have made a few combustion cycles with lean mixture.
The length of it curently is kinda long too, if you think about it, especially if you are using a fast spooling turbo, like greddy. The longer the hose is the higher the chance that the pressure wave traveling through it will be distorted by the hose expancion and the time it takes for the signal to reach the sensor. Yes eventually it catches up, but for that fraction of a second that it takes for everyting to react, your rotors may have made a few combustion cycles with lean mixture.
Best bet is to go to a small diameter metal tube. Smaller diameter means faster reaction time since less air is compressed/displaced.
#321
goal = perfect rx8
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: virginia
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Static,
You were talking about how you still like the REVi sound of your intake several posts ago, but when I was examining the pictures of your installed kit I didn't see the Racing Beat box. Did you take it apart? Is it a different intake system? Also, I imagine that the intercooler would interfere with the ram-air duct that some Racing Beat intakes have. Thanks (and a very substantial congratulations on the kit)!
You were talking about how you still like the REVi sound of your intake several posts ago, but when I was examining the pictures of your installed kit I didn't see the Racing Beat box. Did you take it apart? Is it a different intake system? Also, I imagine that the intercooler would interfere with the ram-air duct that some Racing Beat intakes have. Thanks (and a very substantial congratulations on the kit)!
#324
I AM SUPER MAN
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: FAIR LAWN, NJ
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Evil