Esmeril Turbo Kit Review & Pics
#451
Erich
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wow, I think you really can tell a difference with that Lucas Oil stuff! I also went from a tank of 91 oct. to a tank of 93 oct., but I think it's definately a little smoother and feels like a tiny boost from just 93 octane without the Lucas mix-in.
Last edited by 3DZukini; 04-16-2008 at 08:28 PM.
#453
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#456
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If you look carefully at the picture, the hump on the bottom on the left is the wastegate, and the small hose looking thing in the center is some vacuum tube that I used to re-route the radiator overflow tube. If its going to blow off antifreeze it will exit in the middle of the bottom of the car, instead of directly on the radiator fans This hose is attached to the center main crossmember under the engine (bar looking thing)
Speedbumps are a no-no when you are lowered with this kit.
Right now its on mazdaspeed springs and shocks, with 245/40/18 azenis.
Speedbumps are a no-no when you are lowered with this kit.
Right now its on mazdaspeed springs and shocks, with 245/40/18 azenis.
#457
The Professor
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Simply not enough room in that part of the car. You could get a smaller one, but it would flow less.
#458
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the wastegate position concerns me as well.....static..is it really that low? i mean some places like arenas/malls have speedbubmps that are unable to avoid......would a big angle be ok? mine is lowered 1.25" ....
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I'm doing my research now cause next April I'm going FI. So far I like the sound of this kit, my only concern is the wastegate. It would suck to knock it against a speedbump. Do they make it with a smaller one?
#460
No means yes
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Note that the wastegate is aligned with the wheels, so you should be able to clear a speedbump just fine. Now if you run over a football-sized rock you'd have problems but if you let that happen it's your own fault
#461
The Professor
Thread Starter
Here is my expereince with speedbumps:
Stock car:
Avoid them, go slow and you should be fine for all but the hugest and most absurd ones.
Lowered on Mazdaspeed springs (-.9 inch) with me alone in car:
-Small bumps require no slowing, medium sized ones are ok if you go slow and at an angle.
-The taller ones might as well be a 10ft wall, With just me in the car I would scrape at my local mall and movie theater, I park across the street and walk.
-With 4 people in the car any speedbump is an impossible barrier.
Lowered, me alone in car, Esmeril Wastegate:
-Take every speedbump slow and you will be fine for the medium ones.
-For any medium tall or narrow looking speedbump take the bump impossibly slow and at an angle. It is across from the tire, so that will protect it and it will raise when the car raises, so if you go slow its fine. But if you go fast, the spring & shock will compress when it hits the speedbump, the chassis will lower and you will scrape the wastegate adjustment screw if you don't take it off or tighten it down(happened to me already, I tried to go too fast over the bump, I was on the phone like an idiot).
-Huge speedbumps, don't even try it.
-4 people in car, don't even try it.
Ah, the price of having a sweet car.
Stock car:
Avoid them, go slow and you should be fine for all but the hugest and most absurd ones.
Lowered on Mazdaspeed springs (-.9 inch) with me alone in car:
-Small bumps require no slowing, medium sized ones are ok if you go slow and at an angle.
-The taller ones might as well be a 10ft wall, With just me in the car I would scrape at my local mall and movie theater, I park across the street and walk.
-With 4 people in the car any speedbump is an impossible barrier.
Lowered, me alone in car, Esmeril Wastegate:
-Take every speedbump slow and you will be fine for the medium ones.
-For any medium tall or narrow looking speedbump take the bump impossibly slow and at an angle. It is across from the tire, so that will protect it and it will raise when the car raises, so if you go slow its fine. But if you go fast, the spring & shock will compress when it hits the speedbump, the chassis will lower and you will scrape the wastegate adjustment screw if you don't take it off or tighten it down(happened to me already, I tried to go too fast over the bump, I was on the phone like an idiot).
-Huge speedbumps, don't even try it.
-4 people in car, don't even try it.
Ah, the price of having a sweet car.
Last edited by staticlag; 04-18-2008 at 12:53 PM.
#462
The Professor
Thread Starter
That being said, after I learned to be more cautious than I already am, I haven't had a problem, I've gone over a pretty big one and several medium ones with the wastegate and haven't scraped again.
#463
The Professor
Thread Starter
If your car is lowered 1.25" you already know what to do and what speedbumps you shouldn't even try, it shouldn't change things much.
#466
does anyone know if the mazsport ignition solution is goin to work great with this kit since chris said we have spark blow out past a certain psi .... so will it ork and push us to the 400 hp mark without the spark blowout
#470
You can make it work by playing with the routing of the wires (although we have found some differences in the length of wire between Intx's) but there are terminals that fit on to the larger ring terminals that come with the Intx for an easy extension.
Or you can just cut the wire and solder an extension.
The best way to run the wires would be near the front of the car in front of the coolant tank.
#471
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ok so i got the car running the other day. BUT when we fired it up the car started to surge. now when we start it the car chokes out. If i try to hold the rpm at 2.5k the car drops rpm almost to the point of stallng and comes back up. The boost gauge shows it pulling 20psi in and obvious goes down as the cars rpm falls.
The car is a 04' 6speed with 30,000km it ran fine before installing the turbo so I must have missed something? Please help I'd let to have the car running for the long weekend
The car is a 04' 6speed with 30,000km it ran fine before installing the turbo so I must have missed something? Please help I'd let to have the car running for the long weekend
#472
RotoRocks Powered
What does it mean "the car started to surge"?
Car don't surge, please define your problem using appropriate terminology, or give us a more elaborate description.
you mean 20HG? Vacuum? the turbo will not push boost in neutral (only slightly at a high RPM if revved aggressively) but definitely not at 2.5K
Sounds like you are either
1. Have a pinched hose between manifold and the Int-X, so the signal is distorted.
2. your int-X map is screwed up, and needs to be tuned. (have you adjusted the map by any chance?)
What do your AF ratios read when this happens?
Have you given the car a chance to warm up? If your water temp map is off, it may act funky and go lean or rich at different coolant temps. Same could be with the air temp map.
Car don't surge, please define your problem using appropriate terminology, or give us a more elaborate description.
Sounds like you are either
1. Have a pinched hose between manifold and the Int-X, so the signal is distorted.
2. your int-X map is screwed up, and needs to be tuned. (have you adjusted the map by any chance?)
What do your AF ratios read when this happens?
Have you given the car a chance to warm up? If your water temp map is off, it may act funky and go lean or rich at different coolant temps. Same could be with the air temp map.
Last edited by rotorocks; 05-14-2008 at 08:20 PM.
#473
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What does it mean "the car started to surge"?
Car don't surge, please define your problem using appropriate terminology, or give us a more elaborate description.
you mean 20HG? Vacuum? the turbo will not push boost in neutral (only slightly at a high RPM if revved aggressively) but definitely not at 2.5K
Sounds like you are either
1. Have a pinched hose between manifold and the Int-X, so the signal is distorted.
2. your int-X map is screwed up, and needs to be tuned. (have you adjusted the map by any chance?)
What do your AF ratios read when this happens?
Have you given the car a chance to warm up? If your water temp map is off, it may act funky and go lean or rich at different coolant temps. Same could be with the air temp map.
Car don't surge, please define your problem using appropriate terminology, or give us a more elaborate description.
you mean 20HG? Vacuum? the turbo will not push boost in neutral (only slightly at a high RPM if revved aggressively) but definitely not at 2.5K
Sounds like you are either
1. Have a pinched hose between manifold and the Int-X, so the signal is distorted.
2. your int-X map is screwed up, and needs to be tuned. (have you adjusted the map by any chance?)
What do your AF ratios read when this happens?
Have you given the car a chance to warm up? If your water temp map is off, it may act funky and go lean or rich at different coolant temps. Same could be with the air temp map.
I do have AFR readings ill try to take note of them tonight while its doing it. We got the car warm yesterday but not completely to operating temp.
Any other ideas if its not the int-x vaccum hose?
Last edited by Mafia; 05-15-2008 at 08:30 AM.
#474
RotoRocks Powered
What I mean is if I don't play with the throttle the car will stall right away but if I hold the rpm say at 2.5 the car will drop rpm and almost die out and bounce back up. 20Hg yes my mistake. I will verify that the vaccum hose is not pinched in any way and no I have not touched any of the maps Chris loaded for me.
I do have AFR readings ill try to take note of them tonight while its doing it. We got the car warm yesterday but not completely to operating temp.
Any other ideas if its not the int-x vacuum hose?
I do have AFR readings ill try to take note of them tonight while its doing it. We got the car warm yesterday but not completely to operating temp.
Any other ideas if its not the int-x vacuum hose?
It gets too lean in the normal 20-18HG range so it begins to open throttle and go into higher pressure range in order to attempt to richen up. you may see it beginning to pull 15-10 HG, and it is still too lean, it will stall.
Idles is a very finicky thing with Int-x, and you just need to play with it until you get it right.
You need to adjust fuel in the Idle, and the 1000 rpm range to get it right.
Welcome to the world of Int-X
#475
The Professor
Thread Starter
What I mean is if I don't play with the throttle the car will stall right away but if I hold the rpm say at 2.5 the car will drop rpm and almost die out and bounce back up. 20Hg yes my mistake. I will verify that the vaccum hose is not pinched in any way and no I have not touched any of the maps Chris loaded for me.
I do have AFR readings ill try to take note of them tonight while its doing it. We got the car warm yesterday but not completely to operating temp.
Any other ideas if its not the int-x vaccum hose?
I do have AFR readings ill try to take note of them tonight while its doing it. We got the car warm yesterday but not completely to operating temp.
Any other ideas if its not the int-x vaccum hose?
If you are having trouble starting up when the engine is hot you need to adjust the water map a little.
If the car has been running for a while and gets past startup just fine but dies at stoplights you need to add more fuel to your idle map in probably the 20-15inHG range.