Originally Posted by Luckycat

I have the kit on my car for about 7000+ miles now on stock turbo. Very reliable so far and support has been great. I have stock turbo on my car and I am not complain about the lag. You would be out of your mind if you expect the car to takes off flooring it in 6th gear doing 45 mph. Just with any car, if you are in the right gear, it gets into boost almost instanteneously. My car gets boost in 6th gear around 3200 rpm. I have yet to floor the car below 4th gear on public road. Car pulls hard and I am only running 8-9 lbs of boost wtih methanal. My engine also has Esmeril Seals built by Chris. This kit has a big turbo so it flows well all the way to red line. Passing someone on a two lane high way doing 70 mph doesn't require droping one or two gear anymore. Just roll on the gas padal in 6th and triple digit comes up quite quickly. All in all it is a good quality kit. The only thing I wish for would be the car is running on MAF instead of MAP. But so far there is no issue for me. I don't have MM kit nor know anyone with that kit around where I live. But it is a good kit as well.

Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx

What are your Hp/Tq numbers?

Originally Posted by Luckycat

My car was street tuned by Chris. It tuned pretty conservatively for winter right now. I have not dyno my car yet. I did some runs with E46 M3 and 350Z on high way and it was faster than those cars. I guess around290 - 300 whp or close to that. RX 8 is pretty light compare to those cars. With equal hp the RX8 would sure be a bit quicker because of better power to weight ratio.

Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx

Haha that sounds great! That's exactly what I want, when one of those cocky 350 owners pull up beside you, I want to roast them... How long have you had your turbo kit for? I Emailed Chris the other day through the Esmeril website and haven't heard anything back from him yet... I'd most likely be going for a more aggressive tune though, I'm lucky enough to not have to winter drive my 8

Originally Posted by ssspeedfreak

Even having it tuned by someone who know rotaries is not good enough. Chris has told me that the inter-x is a microTech but the maps are tuned differently making it a bit confusing. I think Chris also said it could be tuned by MAF, MM said he could do it. They would know best.

Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx

Luckcat is it alright if i PM you I have a few questions about the kit that you could probably answer since I havent heard from Chris yet... mainly just some initial stuff after you bought the turbo

Originally Posted by Luckycat

Yes you are right and that why I only let Chris tuned my car. I am lucky that he lives not so far from me. It would be nice if the kit is set up using MAF. MM knows about it may be I will ask him.

Originally Posted by GaMEChld

Have you tried sending a PM through this forum? ChrisRX8PR and Truemagellen are their forum names. It does seem odd that you haven't been able to get a hold of them, but most of my correspondence was conducted through this forum.

Originally Posted by xXLoVeXHaTeXx

I've PM'd both MM and Esmeril on here to no avail. So now neither will receive my business.

Originally Posted by staticlag

Originally Posted by staticlag

Tried the fuel pump last night. I had originally set aside about an hour for the job then had some plans with the girlfriend. Big Mistake.

The swap took about 2 to 2.5 hours. And depending on your success could take you probably a minimum of an hour and a half.

So lets see some pics!

Useful tools:
Compressed Air (canned or from air compressor)
Electrical Contact cleaner
WD40
Thick metal ruler (can find at hardware store)
Rubber Mallet
Very thin slotted screwdriver
Big thick screwdriver
Long small slotted screwdriver
Patience


Prep: Make sure that you have the low fuel light on. Pop the hood and open the fuse box. Remove the 20Amp fuel pump fuse. Go in the car and turn the car to the "on" position but don't start it. turn the car off and go unhook the negative battery cable. Go back inside and turn the key to the ON position. Ok...

Step 1: Remove the driver's side rear seat by pulling up sharply on the front of the cushion until both locking tabs release.


Step 2: Remove the 4 phillips screws holding the aluminum plate over the fuel pump and unclip the wire harness tab from the plate.


Step 3: Dirty Fuel pump. My car doesn't really see bad weather and its in this condition so your mileage may vary depending on what kind of conditions you drive it in. First things first, lets clean some stuff up. Use some electrical contact cleaner and try and blast as much of the stuff off the top and off from around the ring as you can. After you get most of the grime off hit it with some compressed air to get the pooling solvent off the top of the thing.
- Next Lube the hell out of it. You want to soak the entire top ring in WD40 or similar. Let it sit for about 20 minutes. Make sure you use enough to pool it in the top ring area and around the lower black ring that you can barely see.


I already took it off in the above picture but you want to remove the quick connect fuel line. Basically just gently take off the colored ring from around the fuel line and it will come off freely



Step 4: Below pic shows the thickness of the metal ruler used for the job of removing the ring. Note how the top of the pump is drenched with WD40. Probably a good idea to let it set for 10-20 minutes to penetrate.


Step 5: remove the ring. Now that harmless looking ring that is around the assembly is on at around 90ft/lb. The special service tool costs $235 I think. But we're real men... so were going to remove the ring using the ruler and the rubber mallet. You can try a large screwdriver if you want but the tabs have a tendency to break off if you accidentally hit too hard. The ruler distributes the pressure.

You need to break the two black lock tabs off with the large screwdriver before you begin or they will hold the ring in place. They are on the top and bottom.

Basically put the ruler against the tabs on the top and hit it at about nail hammering hardness. If you really rock the thing its just going to break the tabs off. After you get it to move a little bit keep going till its completely off, be careful that the center doesn't rotate when you are rotating the outer ring or you will rip the fuel level sender out. You also have to alternate which tabs you hit, work your way around hit it from every tab you can and alternate a lot, if you just try to pound one tab with all your might its not going to come off.


Step 6: remove the fuel level sender wire. This is the black& red wire that is seen here disconnected. You need to remove this before you take the pump assembly out of the tank. It only has a few inches of play so be very careful not to tug.

At this point I want you to memorize the orientation and location of the fuel pickup (other fuel line that goes into the top of the pump assebly. It is important that when you put the fuel pump back it in goes in exactly the way you took it out, or else it will get tangled on your fuel level sensor and you will have an inaccurate fuel gauge (like I did )

Then remove the blue return line seen here with the blue quick disconnect fitting around it on the top of the pump. Take the pump out of the tank.


Step 7: take the thing apart. disconnect the electrical connection from the fuel pump in the center, and use the thin slotted screwdriver to pry the metal clamp off the fuel line going to the top of the fuel pump.

Use the thin flat screwdriver to unhook the two tabs holding the bottom part of the fuel pump to the plastic case (this pic shows them already separated) A wood chisel might be helpful if you have one. The fuel and WD40 has made everything slippery, don't stab yourself.

Since you unhooked the fuel line and the electrical connection the stock pump should slide right out now and you will be able to see the fuel filter. Use the thin slotted screwdriver to remove the locking ring holding the fuel filter assembly to fuel pump. Don't loose anything and make sure you keep track of the black rubber o ring pictured here, it goes on the top side of the fuel pump as it slides back in the carrier assembly.

(New fuel pump pictured)


Reassemble the damn thing. Make sure to use a metal hose clamp on the fuel line going into the fuel pump, should be included in the Esmeril kit.


Once you get everything back on:
1) make sure the pump assembly sits at the bottom of the tank and not on the alt. fuel hose when you put it in.
2) make sure when you are re-hammering it on the center part doesn't twist. Make note that the arrow faces the front of the car.
3) make sure you clean the WD40 off the top of the fuel pump with the electrical contact cleaner before you re-connect the electrical connection. Blast it with compressed air to dry it.

I think the replacement ring is around $40 if you just want to cut if off.

Originally Posted by AJ312

How did you go about unlocking the black locking tabs?

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8

Think again, the Esmeril kit is a clusterf#$k.