The only ignorance would be someone who wouldn't realize how crappie it is. The couplers split, the turbo quickly moves off of efficiency island once you move the boost up, the exhaust manifold cracks and the e-manage that it comes with is out dated and most change that too. Is this worth the money that you would spend on it or the money it would take to upgrade it to a more reliable and power worthy point? Don't get me wrong I guess your happy with the 260-280whp the kit makes at the for sale price of $3400 with that great engine tuning equipment and worry free parts. I guess I have not see the pipes or the intercooler break so ok I'll say not EVERYTHING on the kit breaks.

 

/\ yes - we would like some burnout and drifting action please LOL

 

some runs against other cars!

 

*sigh*
All valid points if it were still 2004.

 

Right, there's been so many low cost upgrades in the past 5 years?

The best upgrade to the Greddy kit has been the BNR upgrade, in fact this basicly makes it a completly different kit right Bryan? All you need to do is upgrade the cuplers say $200 plus this BNR turbo upgrade for about $1100+shipping, e-manage ultimate $599 or cobb $700, pray that the exhaust manifold holds (it won't, too bad Bryan can't make a fix for that to), upgrade the radiator BHR my choice $550 (you could use a cheaper one and pray) tune it and you will have one kick *** kit! Only then will it be a kick *** kit.

 

Good thing I got a used kit huh? I have an OEM cooling system (works pretty damn good) and my manifold has about 30k on it with no problems. Race roots upgraded my turbo also. Pretty good buy if you ask me. Perfect street machine for the price. I have around 300rwhp if I were to guess. Great power band too. Have fun with your peaky on/off switch turbo kit.

 

I looked at your engine bay, its clean! You say used so i would imagine you did upgrade the things i mentioned. The only reason you may be at that 300whp butt dyno is because you did the Race roots upgrade, what that set you back $1095? You no longer have a greddy kit but its greddy based now. Add that to your used kit price and what about those cuplers? Do they have 30K on them to? I'm not going to degrade your turbo choice, apparently you took a hit with my coments..... looking at your homepage I give you credit your engine looks clean. Much cleaner then mine (I drive my car more than cleaning it), the more Rx8's that kick *** the better!

P.S. Get it Dyno'd so we can see what you really got. I'll show you mine if you show me yours

 

I think it came to 1k for the upgrade. Bought new couplers obviously. I probably will head to the dyno in spring but I'm not all caught up on numbers really. How it drives is all I care about. I plan on e85 next year. Hopefully my work picks up so I can start buying parts.

 

I'm thinking of doing E-85 in a year, blow my entire budget already. E-85 is a nice match for our cars. You got to take a look at my car when its all done, I have a almost full 3" intake, manifold and exhaust this helps alot with spool up. I hope to have it all done by Christmas. I restart the build on monday when the rest of my parts come in.

 

Probably more like 240rwhp

I have been in the Greddy turbo kit cars, and I fee like I can run faster!

 

How about you research before you start making assumptions. I don't have a stock greddy turbo either.
If you did some research you would seen that I've already posted a dyno sheet well over 240rwhp. Since then I have improved some things.

 

lol,

Since we all know how dynos can never be fudged. Didn't mean to bust your *****, I just see a lot of people claiming numbers without actually going to a dyno.

I think your claims about big single being on/off tho are a little misconstrued. Chances are the reason most of these Rx-8 cars are laggy with medium frame turbos are the kits are very poorly designs, I mean hell most of them are based on ebay parts!

/off thread hijack

 

Based on the original Esmeril turbo dyno sheet, it's peaky. Yeah dyno plots can be fudged, I agree. That's why I don't care much about numbers. I care about area under the curve. Compare for example a modified greddy kit like Brettus' plot of 333rwhp to the 414rwhp Esmeril plot. You will see what I'm talking about. Area under the curve.

 

I call that kit crap too. T2 turbine housing on a 10:1 compression ratio engine revving to 9000rpms. WOW what a shocker the manifold cracks. Greddy obviously didn't do their homework and figured they would size the turbo for a civic.

I don't care about name brand, I care about quality. Those parts are still knock-offs even though they aren't from EBAY. I would know I bought a wastegate directly from Thialand that looks identical to an HKS unit I bought, and yes I know there are many knock-offs. Guess what that POS stock open because the valve guide, and valve stem material were junk....

Wake up.

 

Hey you gotta start somewhere right? They were the first to get the ball rolling. I really don't think the whole cracking manifold is that huge of a problem. Like I said before I have about 30K on mine. Then again, nobody uses that kit as designed. It was meant for 5psi. Nobody is happy with that so they turn up the boost and problems begin. I'm running 9psi now on the street with a modified greddy turbo. (T04B H3 compressor wheel, clipped turbine wheel) I keep it well within the efficiency range. Time will tell the outcome of my manifold I suppose.

It's come a long way though with mazdamaniac's gt3071r adapted to fit the greddy manifold and BNR's 60-1 reworked greddy turbo that's water cooled. You gotta give props for that at least!

 

I agree with, Area under the curve is far more important that peak numbers.

That esmeril kit is not a proper setup, just look at their turbo manifold. Looks like a manifold from the 19th century. I am willing to bet a proper T4 turbo setup would make more power under the curve than any greddy or greddy kit variation.

 

The greddy manifold cracks b/c of all the sharp edges where the cast parts from the mold. I don't know if they have corrected that issue. The turbo from the greddy needs help, but its a solid base to start with. It needs all the features I give it and maybe a stronger actuator.

The Esmeril kit I thought was one of the better performers b/c of the dyno numbers advertised. I don't know the quality of the kit, but the numbers tell you if there is flow restrictions. The reason why "under the graph" is better with hybrid greddy is b/c the turbine housing is much larger on the Esmeril. Greddy has a 10CM2 housing which is equal to a .73 a/r garrett. The Esmeril turbine housing is a 1.15 divided which is about equal to a .96 undivided turbine housing. So right there is a huge difference.

If I was looking for 400 RWHP plus, the 1.15 would be the choice. A 1.00 divided would be best, but sometimes you just have make the best of it!

For a zippy street car stay with the smaller housings...

Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193

 

By the way the bnr upgrade is a 61 not a 60-1. Jus so u don't get confused.

 

Bryan the turbo I'm getting is a Precision Turbo PT71GTQ Billet series turbo Q-Trim with a .68 A/R Housing. Also with an enlarged intake manifold and 3" straight to back exhaust, it helps with spool up. What are your predictions on how that will behave?

 

How did you enlarge your intake manifold?

 

I didn't, I got Chris's one off custom piece.

 

Yeah he bought Chris' ultimate turbo kit with the sexy UIM and all

 

Ahh....thoguht that might be it. But the "enlarged manifold" made me think you had modified the stocker in some way. I was like "did he port it?"

 

why are you running a very large turbine wheel with a small (for a rotary) turbine housing? Q trim is big, it's bigger than the 74mm diameter wheels (P trim) that are easily good for 450rwhp on Rx-7's

 

^Ask Chris from Esmeril; he picked it out for his one off ultimate turbo kit