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This is the new thread to prevent polluting the Brettus thread. I'll ping the boys in here and post progress.
So far all supporting mods from fuel, ignition, and cooling have been installed. The engine puked up oil on COTA and its suspected that it's oil blow-by. I've yet to investigate the issue.
I'm about to send off a spare keg for rebuilding and studding in preparation for the turbo.
Based on the track results...I need a larger hole or two holes to a catch can for the pressure which will be added by the turbo. Perhaps the rebuilder can do something while its apart...
Brett isn't a fan of 93 for sure...I could end up running E30, I'll let him decide once I get there. But I'm overengineering everything, so it will be able to.
Well now that I know I should seriously address blow-by and need "bigger holes" I'm all for finding the best solution. Esp while the keg is getting rebuilt. What can we do to eliminate or solve the blow-by issue?
I'm all for cutting off parts and replacing them with bigger holes...but I don't want to further pollute the thread...
Brett has me setup on a E30 tune for my previous build with a modified greddy setup. It worked really well, and the ethanol content wasn't TOO high that Idemitsu would separate from the mixture so you wouldn't need to worry about using a premix that plays nice with E85.
Glad you are starting a thread evil !
Seeing as this came up in the other thread :
Fuel setup for a dedicated race car. First thing I'd say is that my car is not a dedicated race car and what I've done to make it play nice on track wont work for a dedicated car. I'm close to the limit of what can be safely extracted via a modified stock fuel basket and DW300 pump on E30 -E50. What I do to avoid pickup issues is to never allow the tank to drop below 1/2 full while on track. This works just fine for a street car that has the occasional track day thrown in.
Oh and for the record .... I have leaned out on track under boost through high g force starvation and it's a testament to ethanol fuel that the engine didn't detonate and destroy itself !
Brett has me setup on a E30 tune for my previous build with a modified greddy setup. It worked really well, and the ethanol content wasn't TOO high that Idemitsu would separate from the mixture so you wouldn't need to worry about using a premix that plays nice with E85.
I'm literally trying to mine the brain trust for the solution to blow-by. I'll def post as soon as we figure the "best" solution out.
start off with Renesis rotors machined for the deeper RX7 apex seals. The shallower Renesis apex seals aren’t going to cut it, regardless of which brand used. So new rotors and new rotor housings are best.
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Yup..... rx7 apex seals and rx8 corner seals with modified plugs to suit the larger apexs . For me ...dowels in the compression area of the cycle are a great option. They prevent cracking of the front iron plus stop the housings from flexing outwards which not only wears on the irons but eventually causes premature water seal failure.
Brett has me setup on a E30 tune for my previous build with a modified greddy setup. It worked really well, and the ethanol content wasn't TOO high that Idemitsu would separate from the mixture so you wouldn't need to worry about using a premix that plays nice with E85.
I'm gonna do whatever the people I trust tell me to do. I'm just trying to screw around and make something work. Because I'm an idiot. Heh
I'm curious to see what the solution ends up being. I'll test whatever it is. For the lulz.
We just need to figure even the little things out. And in this case...bigger hole for catch can. Apparently.
I need to order the parts whatever they are. Haha.
Yup..... rx7 apex seals and rx8 corner seals with modified plugs to suit the larger apexs . For me ...dowels in the compression area of the cycle are a great option. They prevent cracking of the front iron plus stop the housings from flexing outwards which not only wears on the irons but eventually causes premature water seal failure.
I wish I could ship you the keg. I understand what you are saying but don't know if I know any rebuilders in my area that would.
....So the other idea I had for a Renesis was to drill and tap a hole in the top of the oil fill cap to fit a low-profile swivel banjo fitting there for venting. It would allow the fill cap to be turned opened/closed for oil addition.
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You m/h seen that in my build thread ...as I ran it for a while. It was functional; but I didn't like the look..., so I reverted back to the existing port which w/ the larger lines and CC ports vents sufficiently on my setup.
I can’t recall ever seeing it before, but it makes sense for an easy solution. With the right cap I think it’d be fine, but to each their own since I never saw yours and likely wouldn’t really care. I’d get rid of the whole under-UIM section and build a vent/oil fill tube assembly as Ricky suggested; well actually already did on my own NA engine setup. But it’s more fabrication oriented work to accomplish.
The vacuum tank can be cut off from the OE part and with extended solenoid wiring remote mounted in an easier to access location. Or since the VDI can remain closed on a turbo and the air pump is likely gone, the SSV actuator can be converted to an electric servo drive with the solenoid wires directly driving it on/off. The solenoid/vacuum mess could then be eliminated entirely.
edit: Oh, I see it in the pic above; I’m not suggesting an elbow like that, but a low-profile swivel banjo connector. Radium makes some nice ones, but 10AN is the largest hose out connection.
Fragola has the 16AN swivel banjo (disassembled one underneath the bolt-style banjo), a bit overkill for a vent line, but easy … h
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I’d get rid of the whole under-UIM section and build a vent/oil fill tube assembly as Ricky suggested; well actually already did on my own NA engine setup. But it’s more fabrication oriented work to accomplish.
I like this idea. If it's electronics, coding or 3d printed, I can fab it.
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
The vacuum tank can be cut off from the OE part and with extended solenoid wiring remote mounted in an easier to access location. Or since the VDI can remain closed on a turbo and the air pump is likely gone, the SSV actuator can be converted to an electric servo drive with the solenoid wires directly driving it on/off. The solenoid/vacuum mess could then be eliminated entirely.
Fragola has the 16AN swivel banjo, a bit overkill for a vent line, but easy …
Yup..... rx7 apex seals and rx8 corner seals with modified plugs to suit the larger apexs . For me ...dowels in the compression area of the cycle are a great option. They prevent cracking of the front iron plus stop the housings from flexing outwards which not only wears on the irons but eventually causes premature water seal failure.
I got a brass filter to go into the in hole which I'm using as the "OUT" hole. It's going to catch whatever comes off the oil sandwich plate. Works like a budget Mishimoto setup. Just I have two extra brass micron filters for now instead of the top filter they provide. Hopefully that keeps blow-by under control...which I mean...not spray oil all over my windshield. Maybe we overfilled during the enduro? (I'll check)
Next COTA attempt in a few weeks. Aluminum ducting on the nose being added to replace the plastic homemade stuff.
The can...can take about 6AN. So, I'll make everything else 6AN to the sandwich. Throw that mesh filter that came with it on top. Should I reroute it back in somwhere? I'm all like...no.
Also the dipstick will tell me if we are getting anything, so that's a good point to check between sessions.
My catch can setup is not as large as that one mentioned above ...but it does work well for the 20min sessions I've had on track and I think the can itself isn't much bigger than yours. I just run one 12mm plus one 10mm ID hose in (oil vent hole plus 2006 0n (edit) oil lower vent) and the same out. The catch can itself is partitioned off for 'in' and 'out'.
My catch can setup is not as large as that one mentioned above ...but it does work well for the 20min sessions I've had on track and I think the can itself isn't much bigger than yours. I just run one 12mm plus one 10mm ID hose in (oil vent hole plus S2 oil lower vent) and the same out. The catch can itself is partitioned off for 'in' and 'out'.
This makes so much sense. Thanks! Running both the brass breather plus the breather it came with. Sounds like 6AN or equiv should be sufficient for our shenanigans.
This makes so much sense. Thanks! Running both the brass breather plus the breather it came with. Sounds like 6AN or equiv should be sufficient for our shenanigans.
One (10mm) 6AN hose is too small .... I have a 10 plus a 12 so more than double what you are talking.
he forgot the discussion on it earlier in this thread already?
that doesn’t bode well …
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I literally did. Mind has been working for two months and filled with code. Just getting caught up again. Haha. Whole reason I started this thread. Yes...I'ma dumbass.
Also, springs on wg set to 5.8 as I figured lets start small.
One (10mm) 6AN hose is too small .... I have a 10 plus a 12 so more than double what you are talking.
New parts ordered. Should have the car on the ground this week and start taking it apart. I have four weeks left before it sees the track again. I'll be more on the ball. =P
08-02-2022 | 05:16 PM
