Well, I wasn't quite ready yet but I truly appreciate the info nonetheless. So far I am having nothing but delays in getting my own turbo kit, all of which are beyond my control. Thanks again, Jeff.

CRH

 

Mazda Maniac,

It says I need the RPM adapter if I don't have a Canscan tool to monitor RPM. My mechanic has a Canscan tool, does that mean I still need it for the proper functioning of the car ? Or just during tuning phase ?

 

Mazdamaniac,

thank you for the information on mohparts web site


Manuel

 

You need the RPM adapter if you don't use my diode circuit for igniton filtering.
If you have the Greddy turbo kit, it already comes with the adapter.

 

Yesterday we installed our profec type S and remove high flow cat and resonator we installed a straight pipe.........

With the same past settings on the dyno we make 8HP more on 3rd gear now the car makes 268HP on 3rd gear before the boost installation we make 260 HP on third gear...............
Sorry but I forget to make a dyno run on 4th gear with the same past settings
problably we have more HP than the past 273HP.

We try a dyno run in 4th gear with 8.5 psi of boost and after 7000 rpm's detonation begin and we stopped. We need more fuel!

Next step is to install a high-pressure fuel pump..................
We’re thinking on a Walbro 255.
Any recommendation would be considered.

On the street I feel the difference of the profec S on the car.............
The car response more quickly and the sound it's great not too loud
Just sound solid!

I would advice all of you on the next changes.

Thanks,

Manuel

 

I just got my Apexi Boost controller last week & will be putting it in shortly. I am getting upgraded injectors for my car. Probably from RC Engineering. I'm looking at replacing the stock secondaries with 550cc units.

 

Don't do that without a stand-alone system. Your oem PCM will do a terrible job with secondaries that big.
You can switch you second primaries out with bigger injectors and continue to control those with the E-Manage. However, I wouldn't go over 440cc.

 

Jeff,

I have one of your posts from one of the past threads & you were talking about swapping out the primary 2 with the secondaries from an automatic, which were 500 cc's. Are you saying that is not a good thing ?

The primary 2 & secondaries are 400 cc's, so going to the 440 cc's are going to increase the capacity of the injector position by 10%. I'm about ready to get them from RC Engineering (the 440 cc's are "saturated" injectors - high resistance 12-16 ohms vs. "peak & hold" injectors - low resistance 2.5-3 ohms).

BTW, I meant the second primaries, not secondaries. My bad.

 

^^ You are correct. I don't know what I was thinking.
The OEM secondaries from an auto RX-8 are 500cc.

You can put just about anything in the second primary position.

In fact, I will probably go to the 500cc myself in the near future and seperate them from the ECU altogether, letting the E-Manage control them completely.

 

My car is a 6 sp. So then 500cc's would be good ? I'm not looking to go too much past 9 lbs. of boost. So I should stick with 440 cc or 500 cc's ?

 

All this talk, Im Dyin My babys still in the shop gettin operated on

 

If you are only going to 9 PSI, you don't need bigger injectors.

The OEM injectors flow enough fuel for 9 PSI (well, 70% more air flow than stock really - PSI is a bad way to measure airflow), so you won't need anything more.

 

Jeff,

I try to run 9 psi (exactly 8.5 psi) but detonation begins and we quit................
A high pressure fuel pump can help me to prevent detonations?

Anything different that we can do to increase boost and don't have detonations?

Thanks,

Manuel

 

Add fuel. What does your E-Manage map look like?
I can go as high as 10 PSI withoug detonation on the stock injectors and I still have a little bit of duty cycle left on the primary 2 injectors.

Post up your map here and I'll take a look at it.

 

It seemed like you were getting some massive hp #'s from your kit & many people were saying that you were running very lean, hence you got those great #'s. Even if you got the fuel pump or injectors that would not help the issue of your detonation at 8.5 psi. You need to richen up your fuel mixture (add more fuel) via your programming in your E Manage system. What sucks is that you will probably lose a few hp, but your car won't detonate if you put more fuel in it.

 

We're running on 13.2 - 13.6, FAR, those numbers are at the highest HP point (8,500 rpm),
When you see the whole Dyno chart the car runs near 12.1-12.4 AFR all the time
Except at the highest HP point.
As everyone knows all of you and I don't like does numbers..........

I know a tuner that can works with the emanage and he has the emanage software but the problem it's that I don't know the emanage password.............
How can I change the mix on the emanage without the password?
We make some changes on the emanage manually (using the 5 screws that are on the emanage) but it looks that would be better using the emanage software........
Another option it's to buy a new emanage and begin the tuning from scratch.......
Please let me know your recommendations....

As you mention the problem is "more fuel", on Wednesday we're going to install a high pressure pump (walbro 255) the pump that we buy is for rx-7's but is easy to put to work on our RX-8.
I would pray that this help to fix our FAR numbers.

As you mention probably we lose some HP but I prefer a FAR as straigth as possible.

I would like to ask all of you a question..................probably you can help me!

Sometimes my CEL ( check engine soon) begins to blink 4 to 6 times and
them stay ON as usually . This happens at full throttle and not all the time.
This begins after installed a straight pipe (removing high flow cat and resonator, but put the Oxygen sensors on the straight pipe) and installed the boost controller.
When that happens the car continues running without problem just that I would like to know what that blinking means.....

Thank you for your help!

Manuel

 

Woah! Slow down.

First, most of your questions have been discussed at length elsewhere on the forum, so do some searches.

I have posted a version of the Greddy map that has some corrections in another thread.

Don't bother with the fuel pump. First of all, if you wire it to the factory harness, it will operate at the two different voltage levels that the OEM pump does - but the rail pressure will stay the same since it is a returnless system. Waste of time and resources.
Additionally, the OEM pump can handle a ton of extra flow as it is.

The CEL is either the second O2 sensor or a lean misfire.

You need to get into the 11.5:1 A/F range.

 

Jeff,

Can we just blast the stock Greddy map off the E Manage (with the support tool) or will we have to get the password first ? Gave my mechanic the support tool already. He is looking through the stock, & your 1.1 & 2.2 maps. When I get my gauge pod in I should be bringing my car in to get tuned.

 

Manuel, if your CEL light is blinking/illuminated but the car runs fine don't sweat it. My CEL has been lit for a year. I removed my cat and tried the Casper "fooler" but it didn't work for me. I may try it again when I have a chance but the car runs great so it is not important to me. If your light is indicating a "misfire" as Jeff points out that, too, is not uncommon on some 8's and they still run fine also.

CRH

 

Thank you Jeff,

I make a forum search and see your files 1_edit.zip and Import file.zip
thank you.................

Jeff,
On the forum you explain that we need to delete the greddy map that came
with the greddy kit to install your maps, correct?
Considering that I have plans to buy a new emanage to install this files and
other map on the future.
There is any way that we can "save" the original greddy maps
to don't need to buy a new emanage?
I would like to have a back up of the greddy maps if something happens............

I also check the forum and there is a lot of people with the blinking CEL, it's looks
that is not important. When the the blinking occurs the car runs without problem.

Without the cat back and resonator now the Borla tips are like "yellow".

Thanks,

Manuel

 

Jeff,



I forget to explain that we already buy the pump and we have plans to install a regulator and a return line.

Thank you for your advice,

Manuel

 

I am NOT a big fan of this philosophy.
First of all, the CEL would drive me up the wall. There is no way I could drive around with it on. It would be like fingernails on a chalkboard.
I couldn't even stand the TPMS light which is harmless.
I'd go to extraordinary measures to ensure that it stayed off.

Second, it is NOT normal for it to come on. Intermittent misfires are not a small problem. If you are getting them, you have an issue and you should solve it.

The original Greddy map has also been posted elswhere on this forum. I can't remember exactly where, but look in Jon's Greddy Turbo thread.


Yeah, you could get some more fuel via a rising-rate fuel pressure regulator. I'm not a big fan of that method if there are other choices, but it works.

 

Jeff,

I have plans to visit my friends at the mazda dealer on the next day to get my free
oil change and to check the code of theCEL.
The CEL it's not blinking all the time.............but I really don't liked, I can live
with the CEL steady "on" but the blinking is something that I don't want.
Probably is not something big happening but is something different.
That CEL blinked sometimes before the turbo installation but it's start again
after insatall the boost comtroller and replace the cat and resonator.

I would try to find "again" the original Greddy map on Jon's thread. I try one time but I don't
find it it's a big thread if any one can tell me exactly we're is I really appreciate it.

Manuel

 

I've attached it here.

 

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