The black piece was the valve. Kinda screwed.

 

if the lean condition is always in the same spot then it is most likely a tuning issue .

 

That's what I had thought for some time but nothing changed with the tune/setup of the car. I'm going to try cleaning the MAF sensor and see if that helps. It's very difficult to diagnose a detonation issue. You can only do trial and error so many times. I logged a couple of more runs yesterday and the afr's are in the mid 11s around 5-5.5k but are in the mid 12s-low 13s at 7k which is were the issues are at.

 

Did you verify fuel pressure?

 

Not yet. Almost dont want to risk the rpm increase that is required to test it. Guess I will need to and if something happens to the engine then I guess it was meant to happen.

 

Kris, when was the last time you pulled the plugs out... I know we changed the wires and coils, but have you checked the plugs themselves? I do not think that there could be much of an issue with them considering the logs your getting but I would check anyway.... btw take the drivers side wheel off this time and attack from the wheelwell and not from underneath.

This should only take 10 minutes to do.

 

Probably something you've already thought of, but adjust your WG to lower pressure until you figure out what is wrong. Much better than potentially losing an engine while troubleshooting...

 

I checked the pugs and they look fine.

 

I will be doing that Monday morning prior to the fuel pressure test. I am just going to test it and move on to the next thing.

 

This line of posts are not appropriate for this thread. Could you start a new one in the Troubleshooting Forum, so we can keep on topic?

 

2) Replace the entire unit with a new OE unit
So far the most practical solution. At ~$135, it is relatively easy and requires very little action on the part of the user. However, it does not address the under-performing pump motor itself and it will eventually fail again.

Where can I obtain an OE fuel pump for $135? Also, how special is the tool to get the ring/cap off the fuel pump? Is there a video or step by step write up on the removal of the OE pump. Taking the seat cushion and metal cover off to reveal the pump appear to be the beginning to "lake of tool to remove said pump"

Thanks for any and all help!

 

Since I wrote that, the price for the OE pump has gone back up again.
The average retail is around $215 and the low price is about $180.

The answers to the rest of your questions are obvious, easy to find and abundant.

 

Thank you Gentlemen!
Charles, since my 8 is still running, is your about a week a good ship to me date on the new upgrade unit? Here is your chance to reveal the price of your upgrade pump. Please PM me the details on the new pump. I may be able to wait, if my 81K original holds out and keeps me from stopping along side the road.....Broke!

 

I probably don't speak for everyone but I don't think it's nessecery, besides it will free up time to make fuel pumps.

 

Well I have just finished installing the rebuilt OEM Walbro fuel pump from BHR. I can tell you first hand that the SST they ship with the pump makes removing the plastic ring a breeze. The tool didn't cause any damage to the tabs and the ring was able to be torqued properly when reinstalling. The pump appears to be working well. There is a slightly different sound when putting the key in the ignition and hearing the fuel pump test be carried out. It seems as if the throttle response was slightly improved but that could just be placebo. I will be doing my first HPDE on the new pump this weekend and I'll keep everyone posted on the results. God willing, this pump will solve my fuel starvation issues in left handed turns. I will post back with an update after the weekend. BHR Rocks!!!!

 

How did Mazda make the circuit at Laguna Seca w/o starvation???

 

Fresh pump.

The OE pump works pretty good for a couple of months, typically.
The Arram pump motor doesn't start out under-performing. It becomes that way.

 

The removal tool alone is a sweet item, are you planning on selling them individually? They are hard to find!

 

I agree!!! I considered keeping mine just for the ease of use. Or I could rent it out to everyone. That's a thought

 

Just to check in here again with an update. This past weekend I spent at Summit Point Motorsports Park with the Track Daze organization. It was a great weekend driving on Shenandoah. I had absolutely no fuel starvation issues at all during the whole weekend. Just to test how good Charles' pump really is, I ran all four of my 30 min sessions with no more than a half tank of gas (gotta save weight haha). Even at the end of the 30 min session with the car approaching a quarter tank of gas, I still had no issues on any of the left handed sweepers. Thanks BHR for another great product!!!

 

Would someone help a fellow Rotorhead out?
Thinking that my car would have been done much sooner than it is, I adopted the "drill out the Siphon Venturi assembly to 1/8", theory.

Well we know that is unnecessary at this point. Can someone give me the ID of a non-modified siphon venturi assembly? I'd really like to get this fixed.

 

I wish I could, but I can't find a pin gauge that small.

 

how about a suggestion then? 3/32, 5/64, 0r 1/16? Or is it smaller?

 

If you delete the resistor, and jump the two relays in the fuse panel, will the roll over fuel pump kill switch still function properly to stop fuel flow in case you find yourself upside down??

 

Can you post a picture showing how it looks like when you have done the mods?