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They both sit directly on the bottom of the tank. How do you propose it being possible to get any lower than that?
The S2 assembly design allows filling the internal cup easier with fuel. I had the S1 pump out several weeks ago and didn't think to compare them physically. If the S1 tank is shallower than the S2 tank it just means springs between the S2 top and pump body are compressed more when installed in the S1 tank.
Why would a working Walbro would act any different than a working stock Aaram pump if installed correctly? Why do you think the engine stalling is related to the fuel pump?
Are you getting the fuel-cuts during normal driving or during hard left hand turns (racing or aggressive driving)?
If your old pump is dying and your fuel cuts are under normal driving, then a Walbro install would be fine. Otherwise the Walbro won't solve your high-G left hand corner fuel cuts.
If the pump assembly is old I would just buy a new one and solve both potential issues. Or better yet buy an S2 pump and follow the DIY to install it!
I have bought two Airtex pumps from Advance Auto and both were OEM Aaram pumps in an OEM assembly. But, a guy recently got an Airtex pump from Rock Auto and it was different so I'm not sure why they have different versions and why the Airtex units I have bought have been OEM assemblies.
I'm thinking about ordering one of these Airtex Fuel Pumps from Amazon (on sale $178 with free shipping). Would they be a good replacement for a regular NA '04 RX8? I don't autocross.
FYI, my buddy bought a Airtex for a 04-08 and a pump for a 09-11 came. He is going to see if he can get it to work, it has some slight differences from the OEM S2 pump it appears but in a good way. Airtex is using the same size nipple as the S1 pump but it's just a tad bit longer to the where the clip locks on. But we should be able to cut a tad bit off an plug the stock line right in.
At first it appeared to be the S2 pump. But after further inspection it is just a design improvement using the S1 lines and wiring, minus their oversight on the intank nipple. I haven't disassembled the unit yet to see who makes the fuel pump. Once i do I will update everyone.
What issue were you having with the "Bad Nipple" in the photos?
That was my old pump.
Good.
Bad.
The pump assembly was only about two years old an low mileage, I have no clue how that happened to the nipple. But i just replaced the pump top and it has been fine since.
What issues was it causing though? Mainly trying to relate this to my fuel pressure issue if it can be at all..... I had another pump assembly show up at my house yesterday but I didn't have time to install it before coming back to work, so I'll be installing that next week, testing it out, then storing the car for winter shortly after
^ Ah yes I see it, mine has much, much less miles on it than that (less than 5000). I bought a used one off somebody just to swap it in quick and see if the assembly is the answer to my problem....
What issues was it causing though? Mainly trying to relate this to my fuel pressure issue if it can be at all..... I had another pump assembly show up at my house yesterday but I didn't have time to install it before coming back to work, so I'll be installing that next week, testing it out, then storing the car for winter shortly after
It was leaking. I was having hard start problems only when the engine was cold and I noticed that when I was starting it (after going over the whole damn car) after it had sat a while, that I had low fuel pressure (I have a gauge) for a second or two until the pump primed. Usually when I turn the key the pressure is in the 50psi range even before I crank.
Apparently when the line moved it leaked, which was not all the time I guess since I didn't smell fuel. After seeing a bit of fuel on the top of the pump after a starting attempt, I replaced the entire line (goes all the way up front) thinking it was the line and only saw the slight bend in the nipple afterwards. If I didn't have a fuel pressure gauge I would have gone nuts since my starter was new, battery was new, engine had spark, good compression, etc. so finding the problem with the delayed start only when it was cold had me defeated,
You're saying this is what you see with a properly working fuel system? Or this is what you were seeing with a leaking system?
No this should be in a properly working system, the system should stay primed if there are no leaks. If it doesn't then that is when you will get a delay in starting while the fuel pump fills the lines back up.
Only comes with and as main fuel line (about 2 metres long) from Mazda @ about $84
Same for all Series 1 RX-8's with 'original' OEM Pump F151-45-110A
I guess a Mazda Dealer is a good place to start IF you want OEM, non genuine separate fittings are available but usually sold in large repair kits and sometimes can give more problems than what it is worth to try and save a few bucks.
06-05-2015, 12:06 AM
. I pretty much broke the thing, but should have it fixed soon. 
