Getting the most out of your Greddy turbo without breaking the bank
08-05-2011 | 04:54 PM
#51
Basically the actuator arm is extenable/retractable because it is threaded.... if you twist the bracket part of the actuator that attached to your wasegate it will prevent the wastegate from opening as far and will load the actuator spring so it doesn't open as early..... correct me if I'm wrong
08-12-2011 | 06:20 PM
#52
no sleep til it spools
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270 is a good result with that setup but it does seem to be at the high end of what people normally run .
Considering that the turbo is only supposed to flow about 220g/s efficiently at 7psi and you need over 270g/s to make 270whp , I'd still say 270whp is pushing it past its design parameters .
Considering that the turbo is only supposed to flow about 220g/s efficiently at 7psi and you need over 270g/s to make 270whp , I'd still say 270whp is pushing it past its design parameters .
having a hard time attaching the excel file that has the info logged on the AP :/
08-13-2011 | 04:26 AM
#55
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Seems Garret figured this out before I did LOL
How can I adjust the turbo boost?
Adjusting the boost is straightforward. However, it depends on the type of boost controller.
For a standard Wastegates actuator, simply recalibrate the actuator to open (more or less) for a given pressure. Changing the length of the rod that attaches to the Wastegates lever accomplishes this adjustment.
For mechanical boost control systems, adjustments may involve changing the setting on a regulator valve(s).
For electronic boost control systems, adjustments may need to be made to the vehicle's engine management system.
For an external Wastegates, adjusting the boost often requires turning the adjustment screw (when equipped) to increase/decrease spring load, changing Wastegates springs, or shimming Wastegates springs.
IMPORTANT: WHILE ADJUSTING THE BOOST IS STRAIGHTFORWARD, OFTEN THIS CHANGE REQUIRES MODIFICATIONS TO THE ENGINE FUEL MANAGEMENT SYSTEM!
Adjusting the boost is straightforward. However, it depends on the type of boost controller.
For a standard Wastegates actuator, simply recalibrate the actuator to open (more or less) for a given pressure. Changing the length of the rod that attaches to the Wastegates lever accomplishes this adjustment.
For mechanical boost control systems, adjustments may involve changing the setting on a regulator valve(s).
For electronic boost control systems, adjustments may need to be made to the vehicle's engine management system.
For an external Wastegates, adjusting the boost often requires turning the adjustment screw (when equipped) to increase/decrease spring load, changing Wastegates springs, or shimming Wastegates springs.
IMPORTANT: WHILE ADJUSTING THE BOOST IS STRAIGHTFORWARD, OFTEN THIS CHANGE REQUIRES MODIFICATIONS TO THE ENGINE FUEL MANAGEMENT SYSTEM!
08-13-2011 | 08:47 PM
#57
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I posted it it up because the 'experts' on here have continually informed me that I have being doing it wrong whereas the Garrett 'experts' say it is a legitimate way to do it.
Who is right and who is wrong is not always as black and white as you seem to think.
08-13-2011 | 09:51 PM
#58
Incorrect.
The Garret guys will tell you its OK to increase the tension on the actuator arm by shortening it.
The will NOT advise you to restrict the opening angle of the wastegate flap, which is what you have done.
The Garret guys will tell you its OK to increase the tension on the actuator arm by shortening it.
The will NOT advise you to restrict the opening angle of the wastegate flap, which is what you have done.
08-13-2011 | 10:13 PM
#59
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/\ have to admit I kinda expected that reply .
NVM i'll just enjoy what I have . I'm sure that eventually someone else will try it and see for themselves just how effective it is .
NVM i'll just enjoy what I have . I'm sure that eventually someone else will try it and see for themselves just how effective it is .
08-14-2011 | 01:36 AM
#60
Hitting yourself in the head is an effective way to cure the hiccups.
Unfortunately, you are unaware of how effective it is until you regain consciousness with a massive headache.
08-14-2011 | 02:25 PM
#61
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I tried time travel recently . Borrowed a friends DeLorean , found a straight piece of road , set the controls to 2020 , primed the flux capacitor then accelerated to 87 MPH .
Didn't work
Disclaimer : not a true story . Except for the bit about knowing someone with a Delorean . What a POS !!!
Didn't work
Disclaimer : not a true story . Except for the bit about knowing someone with a Delorean . What a POS !!!
Last edited by Brettus; 08-14-2011 at 02:28 PM.
08-15-2011 | 10:59 AM
#63
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I tried time travel recently . Borrowed a friends DeLorean , found a straight piece of road , set the controls to 2020 , primed the flux capacitor then accelerated to 87 MPH .
Didn't work
Disclaimer : not a true story . Except for the bit about knowing someone with a Delorean . What a POS !!!
Didn't work
Disclaimer : not a true story . Except for the bit about knowing someone with a Delorean . What a POS !!!
Lolz !!!
Delorean... All time -fav
08-15-2011 | 12:28 PM
#64
Eventually I'll get that EBC hooked up too
08-28-2011 | 03:09 PM
#65
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Recent discussions led me to do a little research and as a result I plotted the flow from my turbo vs the compressor map for it .
What it tells me is that I'm running the turbo right on the choke line at maximum flow but right in the meat of the most efficient part of the map in the mid range . Not good for a track car but just fine for the street .
NB! *There is more than one map for the 57trim out there but I believe this is the correct map as it makes more sense when comparing the 57 with other trims.
*The boost recorded here to get PR is taken just after the turbo - NOT the uim .
*Interesting to see that from this map the 57 trim is equivalent to the GT3071 in flow
What it tells me is that I'm running the turbo right on the choke line at maximum flow but right in the meat of the most efficient part of the map in the mid range . Not good for a track car but just fine for the street .
NB! *There is more than one map for the 57trim out there but I believe this is the correct map as it makes more sense when comparing the 57 with other trims.
*The boost recorded here to get PR is taken just after the turbo - NOT the uim .
*Interesting to see that from this map the 57 trim is equivalent to the GT3071 in flow
Last edited by Brettus; 08-28-2011 at 07:29 PM.
08-28-2011 | 06:00 PM
#66
Someone needs to learn to read those flow diagrams better.
So, from 5500 RPM and up, you are toasting your air and you can't even safely run that turbo at a Pr of 1.6 past 6500 RPM.
You claim 330+ HP on this turbo? At what RPM? 6k? lol
Where is the turbine flow map so we can really show you what is going on.
Just as a note, you need to be able to flow about 45 pounds of air at 7200 RPM to hit anything over 315 hp.
So, from 5500 RPM and up, you are toasting your air and you can't even safely run that turbo at a Pr of 1.6 past 6500 RPM.
You claim 330+ HP on this turbo? At what RPM? 6k? lol
Where is the turbine flow map so we can really show you what is going on.
Just as a note, you need to be able to flow about 45 pounds of air at 7200 RPM to hit anything over 315 hp.
08-28-2011 | 07:34 PM
#67
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Someone needs to learn to read those flow diagrams better.
So, from 5500 RPM and up, you are toasting your air and you can't even safely run that turbo at a Pr of 1.6 past 6500 RPM.
You claim 330+ HP on this turbo? At what RPM? 6k? lol
Where is the turbine flow map so we can really show you what is going on.
Just as a note, you need to be able to flow about 45 pounds of air at 7200 RPM to hit anything over 315 hp.
So, from 5500 RPM and up, you are toasting your air and you can't even safely run that turbo at a Pr of 1.6 past 6500 RPM.
You claim 330+ HP on this turbo? At what RPM? 6k? lol
Where is the turbine flow map so we can really show you what is going on.
Just as a note, you need to be able to flow about 45 pounds of air at 7200 RPM to hit anything over 315 hp.
It may have escaped your notice that this 57 trim map is almost identical to a 3071 map in the PR ranges we are talking about - a tad better in fact depending on which version of the 3071 map you compare with.
I don't think you would argue that the 3071 can make 330 ?
And - it's a greddy with a clipped turbine . If you can find a turbine map for that and somehow work out that it won't flow 330 then go for it .
Last edited by Brettus; 08-28-2011 at 07:45 PM.
08-29-2011 | 02:10 PM
#68
I don't use a 3071 and I never have.
I can do that, but there is more to the interaction than just the map by itself, which is what we are trying to get you to address.
08-29-2011 | 02:51 PM
#69
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Anyway - are you actually calling me out here and saying my dyno showing 333whp is BS or are you just being an asshat ?
Also : this is what Bryan at BNR has to say about max flow from the turbine .
Last edited by Brettus; 09-04-2011 at 02:35 PM.
10-04-2011 | 03:26 PM
#70
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/\ Yeah - that result from yesterday pretty much confirms exactly what MM is saying - you need 45lbs on a Renesis to make 320ish whp .
I think the 333 result was a bit of a fluke which occured as a result of the melted centre exhaust divider giving the engine better efficiency.
Why he can't read a compressor map is a bit of a mystery to me however .
I think the 333 result was a bit of a fluke which occured as a result of the melted centre exhaust divider giving the engine better efficiency.
Why he can't read a compressor map is a bit of a mystery to me however .
10-04-2011 | 10:50 PM
#74
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Yes correct - the stock Greddy turbo has to operate well outside it's efficiency range to significantly exceed the flow of an NA engine . A good reason not to run a stock Greddy..... IMO
10-05-2011 | 12:38 AM
#75
Because, unlike you, I am not sitting cross-legged in my mom's wood-paneled basement, in my underpants huffing Reddi-Wip cans and pretending that my cross-correlated assumptions are actually valid conclusions.