Getting a new motor and new tranny. I'm thinking about boost. Suggestions?
#1
Getting a new motor and new tranny. I'm thinking about boost. Suggestions?
I have a 2004 with 137K miles on it. The synchros on the tranny have been bad for a while, but the engine, a rebuild with 40K, just recently blew the main water seal. (I have true flooding problem.)
So I am getting a new rebuilt engine and tranny and I couldn't think of a better time to explore a turbo option. I know the car has a quite a few miles on it, but I want to keep it because it is fun to drive and I have a custom 5.1 sound system in it.
This is my daily driver and I want to keep it at least another couple years. I already have a COBB Access Port. The engine and tranny installed is going to set me back $5K parts and labor. I wouldn't mind spending another $4K or so for a turbo kit. My mechanic won't charge me much for the turbo install.
I don't care about drag racing or posting dyno results with big peak power numbers I'm leaning towards the Greddy. I especially like the results that Brettus got with about 10PSI. I love the quick boost and relatively linear power curve he's got here:
So, what would you do in if you were me?
-Mr. Wigggles
So I am getting a new rebuilt engine and tranny and I couldn't think of a better time to explore a turbo option. I know the car has a quite a few miles on it, but I want to keep it because it is fun to drive and I have a custom 5.1 sound system in it.
This is my daily driver and I want to keep it at least another couple years. I already have a COBB Access Port. The engine and tranny installed is going to set me back $5K parts and labor. I wouldn't mind spending another $4K or so for a turbo kit. My mechanic won't charge me much for the turbo install.
I don't care about drag racing or posting dyno results with big peak power numbers I'm leaning towards the Greddy. I especially like the results that Brettus got with about 10PSI. I love the quick boost and relatively linear power curve he's got here:
So, what would you do in if you were me?
-Mr. Wigggles
Last edited by MrWigggles; 02-26-2011 at 08:08 PM.
#6
#7
So the options are do I throw in a turbo (or blower) while my engine and tranny are getting swapped out?
-Mr. Wigggles
#8
I obviously agree. Even if I wanted to go FI on a brand new RX-8 I still have to get my motor and transmission fixed on my current RX-8 or I wouldn't get a penny for it as a trade-in. I also don't see the point in doing FI in a brand new car because you will likely void most if not all of the warranty.
So the options are do I throw in a turbo (or blower) while my engine and tranny are getting swapped out?
-Mr. Wigggles
So the options are do I throw in a turbo (or blower) while my engine and tranny are getting swapped out?
-Mr. Wigggles
#9
4k is not a reasonable budget for a reliable turbo build with plug and play kits.
The greddy kit is not designed to run at 10psi either and Brettus did other modifications to reach that goal.
Even an off the shelf greddy kit needs at least a BOV, a couple of kit fixes, an AFR and boost gauge and possibly a boost controller. Add the AccessPORT tuning fees...
I think that the right budget for a FI build starts from 7k to say the least, if you can't fab your own parts and do the tuning.
The greddy kit is not designed to run at 10psi either and Brettus did other modifications to reach that goal.
Even an off the shelf greddy kit needs at least a BOV, a couple of kit fixes, an AFR and boost gauge and possibly a boost controller. Add the AccessPORT tuning fees...
I think that the right budget for a FI build starts from 7k to say the least, if you can't fab your own parts and do the tuning.
#10
#11
agree with what is being said plus IMHO dont go to 10psi for a DD.
stay at 6-7 psi. That power level still changes the car a lot and you will find that it is easier to drive and a hell of a lot more fun once you add boost.
The difference in the power level from 6/7 to 10/11 lbs of boost ( and good flow) is not felt that much by the seat of the pants but it does add more stress to the engine/ operating temps. For a DD the lower boost would bring a big grin to your face.
4K is probably not enough dude --sorry. Add another 3K and you will be right in the running?
Its the needed supporting mods and the tune that will cost the extra.
Hope to see you in the club.
OD
stay at 6-7 psi. That power level still changes the car a lot and you will find that it is easier to drive and a hell of a lot more fun once you add boost.
The difference in the power level from 6/7 to 10/11 lbs of boost ( and good flow) is not felt that much by the seat of the pants but it does add more stress to the engine/ operating temps. For a DD the lower boost would bring a big grin to your face.
4K is probably not enough dude --sorry. Add another 3K and you will be right in the running?
Its the needed supporting mods and the tune that will cost the extra.
Hope to see you in the club.
OD
#12
That said 5-6psi felt pretty good to start off with as well .
My car is a DD and I have it set pretty much as per that yellow line on that chart . It has been very reliable - since getting it sorted .
If you are getting it rebuilt go for Esmeril apex seals - pretty much same price as Mazda ones but may well save a tear down if you have an oops .
Then I would buy a used kit (Team has a good one for sale right now) and do all the necessary upgrades . For the turbo upgrade go with a BNR 50 trim . Not the 60-1 that is common on here . Faster spool + equal performance up top .
Then read this thread and blindly follow my advice (especially the bit about the wastegate)and don't listen to MM and you will get a great result .
https://www.rx8club.com/search.php?searchid=7020276
Also you were asking about saving for a better car later . I truely believe that a properly sorted turboed 8 is as good if not better car than anything you could get for that money spent .
Last edited by Brettus; 03-08-2011 at 10:56 PM.
#14
I know Kane has the 1 piece deeper ceramic type and is very happy but you would have to weigh up the extra expense and additional low rpm tuning they require .
Last edited by Brettus; 03-08-2011 at 11:12 PM.
#15
Not really - it's just that I have the Esmeril and have been happy with them (so far) and don't know much about the NRS ones .
I know Kane has the 1 piece deeper ceramic type and is very happy but you would have to weigh up the extra expense and additional low rpm tuning they require .
I know Kane has the 1 piece deeper ceramic type and is very happy but you would have to weigh up the extra expense and additional low rpm tuning they require .
Imho is more a matter of risk vs benefit than cost vs benefit in this case!
#16
agreed with what Bret and all are saying---but with some builds/engines there is not a 50hp difference between those boost levels. Really. Build the engine for better flow 1st--then add boost.
I am curious about those bendy seals you have there. So much stuff/fluff/spin about seals you really do not know what to actually believe. I would much rather have a seal that would bend rather than break. But, i dont know that much about them.
Totally agree that a stable fi package turns this car into something very special.
I am curious about those bendy seals you have there. So much stuff/fluff/spin about seals you really do not know what to actually believe. I would much rather have a seal that would bend rather than break. But, i dont know that much about them.
Totally agree that a stable fi package turns this car into something very special.
#17
with a turbo there is . have a look at diff. between 5 and 10 in the chart above . Its over 60whp difference from 4500rpm onwards - up to 70whp in one spot . That is huge in real terms.
Last edited by Brettus; 03-09-2011 at 02:31 PM.
#24
4k is not a reasonable budget for a reliable turbo build with plug and play kits.
The greddy kit is not designed to run at 10psi either and Brettus did other modifications to reach that goal.
Even an off the shelf greddy kit needs at least a BOV, a couple of kit fixes, an AFR and boost gauge and possibly a boost controller. Add the AccessPORT tuning fees...
I think that the right budget for a FI build starts from 7k to say the least, if you can't fab your own parts and do the tuning.
The greddy kit is not designed to run at 10psi either and Brettus did other modifications to reach that goal.
Even an off the shelf greddy kit needs at least a BOV, a couple of kit fixes, an AFR and boost gauge and possibly a boost controller. Add the AccessPORT tuning fees...
I think that the right budget for a FI build starts from 7k to say the least, if you can't fab your own parts and do the tuning.
also just think there are plenty of options were u can come close to a turbo the most expensive things are a turbo and manifold, depending what kind of turbo u get can be from $1000-1800 then u need an intercooler yeah u can get an ebay kind but when it come down to it, its all about user preference. Do i wana go half *** or just do it right the first time and save money in the log run.
#25
there is a turbo kit..... in the f/s section for under 2500.... you would need the access port that brings you too 3200... bhr fule pump $100... 3300.... mazmart water pump and thermostat.... 400.. 3700... and i think mazda maniac tuning service would be a good option.... that would bring you around 4k.... just keep the boost down and your golden... that will leave you with room for upgrades as you save up more cash..... the supporting mods are what you need to do you home work on.. witch ones are worth the time and money and witch ones are not... look around on the forum..... it can be done but your not going to be hitting huge numbers...
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