Go big or go home!
#53
Originally Posted by BaronVonBigmeat
This is cool, but judging from the prices at AEM's website
http://www.aempower.com/product_ems_app.asp
I think I'd wait for RG's megasquirt project to be done with. If I were actually looking to buy a turbo kit, that is.
Would you guys be selling a kit without a computer?
http://www.aempower.com/product_ems_app.asp
I think I'd wait for RG's megasquirt project to be done with. If I were actually looking to buy a turbo kit, that is.
Would you guys be selling a kit without a computer?
#55
hmmm.........interesting. The standalone is the way to go to make good/reliable power, however the problem with that is that no-one has been able to address the issues with using a standalone, such as keeping tcs/dsc, throttle by wire, electric assist steering, just to name a few, and if/when I upgrade my car with a turbo set-up these "things" are important. If you can manage to go standalone, and use the pieces suggested then I see 6000-6500 as a good asking price. If you go standalone but lose all the factory systems stated previously, then the system doesnt justify the price
#56
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,086
Likes: 1
From: Misinformation Director - Evolv Chicago
If all the factory systems are compromised - tcs, dsc, etc... - this would be a hard sell for most, I suspect.
That said, I think many of us have no issues with spending more money for a better quality kit, especially if the parts involved will allow for the possibility of building on more power later on down the road. The only question is whose kit is the best for such an application.
That said, I think many of us have no issues with spending more money for a better quality kit, especially if the parts involved will allow for the possibility of building on more power later on down the road. The only question is whose kit is the best for such an application.
#57
Originally Posted by Razz1
With the high compression of the 8, I don't think you'll see those type of HP numbers.
350 to 500.
Well at least not something that is reliable.
350 to 500.
Well at least not something that is reliable.
true..but they do have lower compression rotors...someone wanting to go that big would obviously change them out. i think 500 is doable..and done right..could be quite reliable. you'd be surprised. time will tell..
Originally Posted by Red Devil
If all the factory systems are compromised - tcs, dsc, etc... - this would be a hard sell for most, I suspect
#61
Originally Posted by Bindon
If they could develop them for the Rx-7, I assume that IF there is enough damand, developing low compression rotors shouldnt be a big issue for the 8
#62
Originally Posted by Bindon
If they could develop them for the Rx-7, I assume that IF there is enough damand, developing low compression rotors shouldnt be a big issue for the 8
#63
My question is at this stage in the game, why would someone rip out their factory rotors and go the low comp route? And if they are that hardcore about it, why not buy a 7 with a blown engine and build it from there?
#65
Originally Posted by rotarygod
Yes there are lower compression rotors out there but they are for the 13B, not the Renesis.
#66
Originally Posted by DARKMAZ8
what about swapping the 4 port automatic motors into a manual and boosting that?
#69
They aren't using a 3 rotor Renesis. They are only referring to it as a Renesis because that is what the current rotary is known as. The 3 rotor race engine is an all peripheral port 20B. It uses Renesis ignition coils though.
#70
Originally Posted by Bindon
If they could develop them for the Rx-7, I assume that IF there is enough damand, developing low compression rotors shouldnt be a big issue for the 8
#71
Originally Posted by zoom44
Racing Beat will do it for you butyou have to send them your rotors i believe.
http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda4.htm
#72
I don't understand the big desire for lower compression rotors. Lower compression rotors means you can up the boost, but it takes more boost to make more hp. With higher compression rotors, you can use less boost to make the same hp. The effective compression of the engine will turn out to be the same, whether using 8:1 with 20psi or 10:1 with 15psi. Note, those are just numbers to illustrate and I do no claim the are mathematically correct, but you get the point.
Then with the lower comp rotors, you have to deal with soggy throttle response and low power when not in boost at low rpm's.
Then with the lower comp rotors, you have to deal with soggy throttle response and low power when not in boost at low rpm's.
#74
Originally Posted by rkostolni
I don't understand the big desire for lower compression rotors. Lower compression rotors means you can up the boost, but it takes more boost to make more hp. With higher compression rotors, you can use less boost to make the same hp. The effective compression of the engine will turn out to be the same, whether using 8:1 with 20psi or 10:1 with 15psi. Note, those are just numbers to illustrate and I do no claim the are mathematically correct, but you get the point.
Then with the lower comp rotors, you have to deal with soggy throttle response and low power when not in boost at low rpm's.
Then with the lower comp rotors, you have to deal with soggy throttle response and low power when not in boost at low rpm's.
#75
Originally Posted by epitrochoid
how would a gt35r's power curve compare to a t66 or 62-1 with around 9psi peak boost?
i know the t66 is capable of a LOT more, but it too would probably do close to what the others do at 9psi...it's not efficient until the upper teens.