Ajax

so the rotor was packed with carbon deposites but the housings are pristine.. i didnt think that the 7's built up that much carbon on the rotors though. I know at 7stock the guy from pineapple said something about buildup on the 8's rotors but i didnt think there'd be that much.. wild..

rotarygod

There is never a buildup on the rotor housings. The apex seals sweep it away. He is pointing out that there are no wear marks on them.

snoochie: You need to rev that engine up high alot more often. It keeps the carbon away. Hit redline at least once everytime you take it out and do it under load. Carbon buildup will eventually get into the auxiallary port sleeves and they won't open.

guitarjunkie28

actually, there was a lot of carbony stuff on the face of the rotor housings. (which may be why there is pretty much no wear) but it came right off with some brakecleen.

Ajax

RG, i remember the guy from pineapple racing mentioning this but I dont remember exactly what he said. Someone had asked about octane and boost and he mentioned this buildup due to the side exhaust ports... like i said.. i'm not totally fresh on what he said.

guitarjunkie28

rg, check this out:
http://www.rx8garage.net/?page=shop/...265c47044a8f9&

Aoshi Shinomori

That's pretty much been decided a paperweight from what I remember, it doesn't separate the center port and gains of 1 hp were seen. I could be thinking of a different company though.

rotarygod

That's the 1st header that ever hit the market for the RX-8. It's a ripoff for only about 5 peak hp and nothing over the average. That's typical of all the header designs right now.

guitarjunkie28

alright...my bad

IcemanVKO

Would Synthetic Oil, better prevent build up like that?

How does that build up affect the performance, other than causing the secondary runners to not open.

Rotarian_SC

Well lets first ask the question...Snoochie did you use synthetic or dino? From what is argued synthetic generally leaves even more carbon which is why it wasn't allowed on previous rotaries, while semi-synth like royal purple supposedly burns cleaner. So overall what brand of oil and which type did you use Snoochie, and how many miles on the engine?

guitarjunkie28

detonation is more likely. actually, synthetic would probably make it worse.
using premix would make it better though.

i did notice that this carbon came off incredibly easy compared to earlier motors. this is a prime candidate for periodic water injection.

you can find writeups about it, but here's a basic rundown in case you're not familiar with the process.

1) start the car and warm it up to operating temp.
2) run the motor about 4-5k rpm with a vacuum line (make sure you pick a vac. line that has equal distribution to the front and rear rotors) in a gallon jug of water... suck in about half the water and then re-plug in the vacuum line.
3) go drive for about a half-hour
4) repeat step 2 with the other half gallon.

once or twice a year should do you up pretty good. keeps the motor clean and prevents carbon buildup; which leads to hot spots; which leads to detonation; which leads to my job security.

guitarjunkie28

and some fun from the buildup...

guitarjunkie28

...

guitarjunkie28

almost there.....

guitarjunkie28

voila...
now someone make me a flash movie!

guitarjunkie28

ans speaking of movies... i'm gonna video tape myself cranking it over. anyone who wants to see hit me up on aim:

fcrotorhead

or can anyone host it?

Snoochie

Alright I posted a long *** reply and it's gone now. So here goes again.

That is...wow...a lot of deposit. I rarely redline but I will keep in mind to do that every time which sounds odd but I buy it. Also the dealership does all of my oil changes for free but I'll ask them what they use. Not synthetic for sure. I would do royal purple starting now but we don't want it affecting the dyno numbers but I'm going to start using it asap though.

I have 26,500 miles on it now. Also I went and picked up the spark plugs. So now in the back seat I have oil/coolant/spark plugs. Let me know when you need those by. Is monday good.

Also I've been talking with matt from rx8garage and I'm trying to get some quicker shipping so I have it by monday. I'd then run up there and hopefully get this mug done.

I'm kinda bummed about the oil deposits, makes me wonder how bad I'm treating my baby but I'm glad I know it now rather than later.

guitarjunkie28

man, i was hoping to get it back in the car tomorrow...

as soon as you get the clutch, hot tail it up to my place and let's plug it in.

Snoochie

Well the place won't have it in stock till monday so they can rush it to me and I'll have it on tuesday. I might just set up and alternate address as yours and have em mail to you then I'll bring up all the other stuff on tuesday also. If this happens when do you think it'll all be done. That day? or the next?

wakeech

so what're the fasteners you've decided to run to hold your beautiful new block together?

thew

make sure you always warm it up and no high rps untill its warm..

Your clutch is on its way..

Richard Paul

iTrader: (5)

Go to a dealer and get a damn clutch already. Someone has to have one. Forget that vendor, let your fingers do the walking. Call one of the aftermarket clutch suppliers. After all this hauling *** from a sick dude no less, we wait on a disk? A racer you'll never make.

guitarjunkie28

i need at least a day and a half--maybe 2 just to account for any snags we may run into.

snap-on

Do you need a stock clutch?

I may have one laying around..

G8rboy

Follow their advice- you have to redline it somewhat often to keep the carbon buildup down... and this is the best visual representation I've seen to back that up. Doesn't have to be every shift, but try at least once per outing in 2nd or 3rd gear after it's completely warmed up. The rotary guys I used to hang with swore by it, and their motors (FC's) ran forever (200k miles +) without a rebuild.