The Great Renesis Porting Project!
#176
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looks like the aux ports only build power in 3rd!! i'd like to disable them in 4th and do another pull--see where that takes it.
this leads me to reaffirmate what i said earlier about getting the air in not being a problem... with the exhaust porting, i expect to see quite a bit more power gain when the aux ports open, but without sacrificing ANYTHING down low....hopefully. but i guess we won't know for absolute sure until the ported n/a motor gets dyno'd.
this leads me to reaffirmate what i said earlier about getting the air in not being a problem... with the exhaust porting, i expect to see quite a bit more power gain when the aux ports open, but without sacrificing ANYTHING down low....hopefully. but i guess we won't know for absolute sure until the ported n/a motor gets dyno'd.
#177
Kaiten Kenbu Rokuren
Originally Posted by guitarjunkie28
looks like the aux ports only build power in 3rd!! i'd like to disable them in 4th and do another pull--see where that takes it.
this leads me to reaffirmate what i said earlier about getting the air in not being a problem... with the exhaust porting, i expect to see quite a bit more power gain when the aux ports open, but without sacrificing ANYTHING down low....hopefully. but i guess we won't know for absolute sure until the ported n/a motor gets dyno'd.
this leads me to reaffirmate what i said earlier about getting the air in not being a problem... with the exhaust porting, i expect to see quite a bit more power gain when the aux ports open, but without sacrificing ANYTHING down low....hopefully. but i guess we won't know for absolute sure until the ported n/a motor gets dyno'd.
#179
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Originally Posted by Aoshi Shinomori
Sounds great. I figured since you were going to port your engine and then turbo it that FI shouldn't be a problem with porting, but are there any risks involved with porting and then a turbo? Thanks.
it just looks like the stock ecu with a piggyback will be the easiest option for now...
#182
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yeah you are right but that is just the lowest dynojet number for an 8 i have seen. i watched 2 8's go back to back up in the mountains of washington state awhile back and one pulled 175 and the other pulled 179. that was a dynojet. that's at a higher elevation than 4500 im sure and they were both stock. but it was also early evening just after the sun had gone down and high 70's.
#185
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You don't use correction for turbocharged cars. Since the air is thinner up high it obviously takes more of it to get the same amount of power. A turbo wastegate is set to open at a certain pressure. The turbo will just ingest more air to get the total air density the same as if it were at sea level. A nonturbo car will not do this. That is why they need correcction.
#188
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Well if you have spare time we can pull my car on 2 or 3 sep days cause it'll take too long to do it in one day. Ima just get my Mom to get a rental and I'll use her truck for a while. We can do it down at my house. I'll clear room and we can use the whole garage. Lemme know if you wanna do this. I'll give you money for gas and whatnot coming down here. If we can do this we can do it soon.
#189
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alright.
let me know what day you're thinking of and i'll try to schedule around it.
do you know anyone with a truck? i'm a lazy *** and i wanna bring my air compressor. it'll save hours and hours...trust me
let me know what day you're thinking of and i'll try to schedule around it.
do you know anyone with a truck? i'm a lazy *** and i wanna bring my air compressor. it'll save hours and hours...trust me
#190
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Originally Posted by zoom44
yeah you are right but that is just the lowest dynojet number for an 8 i have seen. i watched 2 8's go back to back up in the mountains of washington state awhile back and one pulled 175 and the other pulled 179. that was a dynojet. that's at a higher elevation than 4500 im sure and they were both stock. but it was also early evening just after the sun had gone down and high 70's.
#191
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Originally Posted by guitarjunkie28
... i haven't totally decided, but the canzoomer ecu looks like it may be the winner...
#193
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The air compressor I have at my house says on it
6.5 @ 40 PSI
5.1 @ 90 PSI
125 PSI MAX
It's pretty big so will this work so you don't have to tote yours down here?
Also anybody know what the cheapest car rental place is? :D
First day we could start on it could be monday I suppose at around 1ish.
6.5 @ 40 PSI
5.1 @ 90 PSI
125 PSI MAX
It's pretty big so will this work so you don't have to tote yours down here?
Also anybody know what the cheapest car rental place is? :D
First day we could start on it could be monday I suppose at around 1ish.
#197
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Kinda mad at myself for not pushing this forward so here we go...
Does monday work for you? I'd be game for it. I would say I'd pick you up but I wouldn't have a car to drive you back with. :D Also could we do more/maybe finish pulling it on wednesday? In the same sense we could start on wednesday if monday isn't good for you. I would just like a timetable down so I can know how long I need the rental for.
Do you think it'll take 2 or 3 days to pull it? Probably depends on our schedules and how long we have to pull it. For me I could work on monday from 1ish till sundown or later. So here's a recap...
1. Can you come down on mon the 6th/wed the 8th?
2. Also what about the next mon/wed (the 13th and 15th)
3. How long can you stay down here if in fact you can come down on those days?
4. Is there another day that works for you? I can switch up my schedule to fit what you need...
And where is the cheapest rental place??
Alright hopefully this thing gets underway now.
Does monday work for you? I'd be game for it. I would say I'd pick you up but I wouldn't have a car to drive you back with. :D Also could we do more/maybe finish pulling it on wednesday? In the same sense we could start on wednesday if monday isn't good for you. I would just like a timetable down so I can know how long I need the rental for.
Do you think it'll take 2 or 3 days to pull it? Probably depends on our schedules and how long we have to pull it. For me I could work on monday from 1ish till sundown or later. So here's a recap...
1. Can you come down on mon the 6th/wed the 8th?
2. Also what about the next mon/wed (the 13th and 15th)
3. How long can you stay down here if in fact you can come down on those days?
4. Is there another day that works for you? I can switch up my schedule to fit what you need...
And where is the cheapest rental place??
Alright hopefully this thing gets underway now.
#198
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I would like to show you guys how to construct a very cheap but very useful flowbench so you can test those ports. No more guess work! If you've got a shop vac, Home Depot has the rest.
guitar: If you've still got those ported housings lying aroudn unassembled, I'm wondering if you can make a mold of the runners and ports and send them to me for flow testing. I'd really like to have an original untouched port mold too. Here's a link to a website that shows how to do it on piston engines. Yes it has to be apart. The technique is the same. I've done it with some of my housings. Once I get these molds, I can make a copy out of fiberglass or plaster and then flowbench them. I don't even need a motor in my possession. This is a neat way to develop port shapes all day long without ever touching a motor plate. Once you get it where you want it, then you try to copy it on the real thing. You can get in the ballpark. Flow testing isn't accurate from the standpoint that you know how much a rotary engine actually flows. It is a good frame of reference though when you are comparing it to other parts of the intake and exhaust system and to tell if what you did actually was better or not. There are other things it tells you but I'll get into that later. Try this and see how it works. If you get one good, send it to me.
http://www.diyporting.com/molds.html
guitar: If you've still got those ported housings lying aroudn unassembled, I'm wondering if you can make a mold of the runners and ports and send them to me for flow testing. I'd really like to have an original untouched port mold too. Here's a link to a website that shows how to do it on piston engines. Yes it has to be apart. The technique is the same. I've done it with some of my housings. Once I get these molds, I can make a copy out of fiberglass or plaster and then flowbench them. I don't even need a motor in my possession. This is a neat way to develop port shapes all day long without ever touching a motor plate. Once you get it where you want it, then you try to copy it on the real thing. You can get in the ballpark. Flow testing isn't accurate from the standpoint that you know how much a rotary engine actually flows. It is a good frame of reference though when you are comparing it to other parts of the intake and exhaust system and to tell if what you did actually was better or not. There are other things it tells you but I'll get into that later. Try this and see how it works. If you get one good, send it to me.
http://www.diyporting.com/molds.html
Last edited by rotarygod; 12-04-2004 at 04:40 PM.
#200
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very good idea!!!
only problem is it's been 30's at night and 40's in the day here....it'd take forever for the rtv to dry.....i'd get killed if i brought the irons in the house. :p
only problem is it's been 30's at night and 40's in the day here....it'd take forever for the rtv to dry.....i'd get killed if i brought the irons in the house. :p