CraigRX8

Ok so i have an 04 euro rx8. Installed greddy turbo and it wont idle, its running a base map by jeff on the accessport.

Modifications are BHR coilpacks, custom CAI, straight through exhaust.

As im running accessport i blocked off the vacumm line to the VFAD which was meant to go to e manage. I have ran by boost vaccum hose from the waste gate to the intercooler pipe, to my boost gauge and BOV. No vacumm line on this.

My blocking plate wasnt included in the kit so i havent blocked the port in the intake manifold either.

Any other ideas?

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

How is your MAF sensor setup?

Try uninstalling the AP and starting (no driving) on the stock ECU calibration. If it runs, you know it's the tune, if it won't then it's a mechanical issue.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

good call chicken ..

prhaps a picture of your vac line setup would help - I don't understand from your description

Also : if you have a scan tool your MAF at idle should be at around 5g/s steady - is that the case ?

CraigRX8

Well i was driving last night in it, and the car started losing power alot, and eventually i couldnt get it to go anywhere. So. i put the stock calibration on and it wont idle.

Its a mechanical issue.

I havent c hecked the MAF but would it make a difference if i have the sensor on its side instead of the stock position.

cai



maf setup



the Vacumm set up is:

Line from Turbo to t piece
T piece to the tap in the aluminium pipe as mentioned in the greddy fix
T piece to BOV
BOV to boost gauge, Thats all the connectionsi n the line.

The little nipple at the bottom of the intake manifold which is about 4mm, which used to run to the VFAD and in the greddy intructions it says to run it to the e manage sensor is now blocked up.

CraigRX8

i Should point out that coming to a fast stop the car will stall straight away.

If i start it up and its warm then the car will idle very lumpy at less than 1000rpm and then 30seconds to a minute later stall. I pulled the spark plugs out they were black and only changed 10 miles ago so i shot blasted them til like new, didnt take long.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

so - all the vac. lines are from the same source?

Can't see how your BOV is supposed to work set up like that .. It should be getting vac from the upper inlet manifold .

What afrs are you seeing at idle ? What is your MAF at idle and how steady is it ?
Anyway - your maf sensor setup could be off . If your readings are all over the place try setting it up like a std greddy kit and see if that makes a difference .

CraigRX8

Ok so run me through the connections for the vacumm.

I shud have my air fuek vacumm in the pipe to the throttle bodu. Ny oil breather and the other vacumm are off the pipe feeding the turbo with oil.m
My bov shud go to the intake manifold , what breather line do I use?

Then my wastegate doesn't have its own vacumm, so should I be running a vacumm to it from somewhere

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

Your BOV and gauges should be hooked up the VFAD nipple under the UIM. That is the cleanest vacuum/boost source on the car.

The wastegate should be hooked up by a nipple off the turbo compressor housing or in the first turbo discharge pipe so it gets immediate turbo boost and not a signal received from the pressure drop as the compressed air travels through the charge piping and intercooler.

Brettus will argue to hook up your boost controller to this vacuum hose as well (off the turbo to the wastegate) but I have mine hooked up on the VFAD nipple and it works. I haven't tried moving it.


Also your MAF pipe looks a little twisted- do you have a front shot of it? The MAF is very sensitive and requires at least a 6" straight, clean section of 3.5" ID pipe (3" in front and back of the sensor) with no twist or bends.

Also your problem sounds pretty serve.....I almost wonder if your motor popped. How old are your coils? They could be bad or on their way out and it would only exacerbate the problem. Did you go into boost at all the any issues?

Cattywampus

I have a slight idle jump on a GReddy turbo as well. My MAF at idle logs show 4.96 to 7.35. I have no screens and have been trying to fix the issue since install.

WingleBeast

firstly, what chicken said about the MAF, it needs to be facing the the proper direction.

secondly, as stated in your first post you are useing a base turbo map. MM base maps for the turbos arent ment for driveability, they are super rich. you have to get a custom map made for your setup. Could be the easy answer for this whole situation

CraigRX8

The coils were new nearly 15 miles ago and are rays ones.

The maf sits at 3o clock instead of the stock 12 o'clock position could that be y?

Does the turbo then get the vacumm from the intercoolerpipe? As there is no were on the turbo for this just ur oil feed and return?

Ill hook the stock air filter up and see if its to do with the maf sensor as it sounds like the car is over fueling but I don't think its to do with the map

Danc

iTrader: (1)

I had this exact problem. My turbo did it for about a thousand miles and then it crapped out. I assume your turbo is used? If it is I would believe that it will likely do the same as mine did, just be careful.

WingleBeast

craig, is it a base map you got off the forums here from MM or is it a personalised one that he e-mailed to you. if it is the former than it will not run well because its a generic rich turbo map.

your MAF might not be helping the situation any but I would still be willing to bet if your useing a base map that is the issue

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

The tune isn't the issue- he said he flashed the stock ECU calibration and it still won't run right.

The MAF doesn't have to be in the same position as long as it face the right way. Mine sits in my pipe at about 5 0-clock or so.

My Garrett has a 1/8" NTP port on the compressor housing discharge. If you don't have this port you can drill and tap a hole in the discharge pipe that comes right off the compressor housing, screw in a 1/8" NTP Hose barb fitting and connect a vaccum hose to that and run it to the w/g actuator.


I can almost guarantee this a direct result of a bad MAF housing, dirty MAF, or the fact you have no screens in your intake. I added a screen in front of the MAF sensor and now my idle is dead steady at 14.6-14.8 and the rpm is locked down, it doesn't move at all.

Cattywampus

Thanks for the responce. I switched MAF sensors with a semi new one and it still jumped. I would try a screen just dont know how to make one due to never seeing one. The MAF tube came from MM. Its a 3.5" with 6 inches before and after the MAF sensor

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

What chicken says about getting the maf pipes straight etc is 100% . It is not that hard to do .
My setup works great - i have no bends (or screens) at all before the maf . My (very short) filter sits in the front bumper and from there it is a straight line to the maf sensor .

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Me Argue ? You must have me mixed up with someone else
I actually have my boost controller on the VFAD now as well - but only after recognising the issue with this and addressing it in another way .

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

Hey police just goto Home Depot and get some steel mesh screen (like for re-screening and door or window screen).

Take your maf tube off and measure the diameter and trace it onto the screen mesh material. Then cut-out the screen in a slightly larger diameter than your tube so you can wrap it.

I used a hot glue gun and just "tacked" the screen tight across the opening diameter of the MAF pipe. This helped keep the screen tight (so it doesn't bow or fold) and kept it in place. I then slid the coupler over it and tightened down with a hose clamp to keep the screen securely in place. I tried skipping the hot glue method but it was hard to keep the screen in it's proper place while getting the coupler over it, and the screen would get twisted.

Make sure you cut enough screen material out so you can get a good wrap around the pipe and the screen will stay in place- you really don't want it getting sucked into your motor (although at higher rpm your turbo compressor would just eat it and turn into dust, but it could damage your compressor wheel).

Just make sure you use a higher temp hot glue (or you just use some super glue) and use it sparingly. Also don't get the glue too close to the opening of the pipe or normal engine bay temps can get hot enough to return the glue to a liquid state and it could potentially leak into your intake. A small amount is nothing to worry about but I imagine a significant amount of glue could do some damage.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

You have me confused as to what you are asking here but i'll run through them all

Watsegate actuator - connect to pressure side of turbo (as close as you can get to turbo)

BOV - connect to VFAD nipple or T into the rubber u tube after the throttle plate

Boost guage - connect to VFAD nipple

Air jet line - connect to to the pipe just after the MAF ensuring you fit a one way check valve to it to make sure you dont get a boost leak .

OMP vac line - connect to pipe just after MAF

Crankcase breather - connect to a catch can and vent to atmosphere

Think that covers it all ....

CraigRX8

Ok so my MAF readings are from 5g/s to 10g/s on cold idle, when it drops to 5 it basically stalls.

If i have already a 1/8 tap on the turbo which i did not see and was open would this boost leak cause the problem. I dont think there is a whole but incase the previous owner did on and i didnt noticed. Im going to email him now

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

The car should idle around 5 grams/sec so if your motor is stalling at that airflow something else is wrong. I would get a compression test just to be sure.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

If it is fluctuating 5-10 then your maf setup is whack .

Re the hole -A hole anywhere in the intake after the maf could cause your issue .

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

You can always pull your intake and throttle body charge pipe and install your stock airbox (assuming you still have it) with the MAF and see if you'll idle.

CraigRX8

i am going to install the stock greddy intake tomorrow.

regards to the turbo and actuator. on a stock greddy turbo will there already be a tap for a vacumm or just the inlet on the actuator? as greddy instructions dont mention this.

I am worried with regards to engine compression could MAF readings a hint at low compression?

Brettus what do you mean re the hole -A after the maf sensor?

Also could the manifold blanking plate have anything to do with this problem?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

turbo - no hole there as stock . That is what fix no 2 is all about .

maf/compression - don't think so .

hole - I mean if you have a hole allowing air to escape after the sensor then this will cause faulty maf readings and make the mixture very rich .


Blanking plate - nothing to do with it . Unless you installed it and it is leaking air ....