Greddy turbo install help
#176
Ex- member.
Thread Starter
BOV and Catchcan
Also, if installing a BOV or catchcan (not included with the kit) here's those hoses.
Connect the BOV hose to the greddy pressure sensor hose using a T-fitting.
Connect the catchcan inline to the oil filler pipe and air intake pipe.
Connect the BOV hose to the greddy pressure sensor hose using a T-fitting.
Connect the catchcan inline to the oil filler pipe and air intake pipe.
#177
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Virginia/Maryland
Posts: 1,294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
a few questions
I am almost done with the install but I have a few questions.
1. With the VFAD hose that connects to the pressure sensor, does it matter if the white (check) valve is removed? I left it on.
2. How in the world does the ECU fit back in its box once you connect the emanage harness? Here's a pic of what I have and there's no way its fitting back in that box!
3. Where is it in the airinx that everyone is placing the metal screens from the old intake?
4. The metal fitting that scews into the arinx for the jet air fuel line just plain doesn't fit in that hole. It is slightly too big. Did anyone else have that problem?
Thanks in advance,
Ryan
1. With the VFAD hose that connects to the pressure sensor, does it matter if the white (check) valve is removed? I left it on.
2. How in the world does the ECU fit back in its box once you connect the emanage harness? Here's a pic of what I have and there's no way its fitting back in that box!
3. Where is it in the airinx that everyone is placing the metal screens from the old intake?
4. The metal fitting that scews into the arinx for the jet air fuel line just plain doesn't fit in that hole. It is slightly too big. Did anyone else have that problem?
Thanks in advance,
Ryan
Last edited by rkostolni; 05-28-2005 at 11:11 PM.
#179
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
E-01 and Greddy Turbo kit e-Manage
I noticed that the E-01 and the e-Manage from the turbo kit both come with the same pressure sensor. If I am going to run both the e-Manage and the E-01 do I install 2 pressure senors or is there a way to split the signals??? In the meantime I have the valve (boost controller) between the actuator and the intake manifold port while the E-01 is not turned on.
#182
Ex- member.
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by rkostolni
I am almost done with the install but I have a few questions.
1. With the VFAD hose that connects to the pressure sensor, does it matter if the white (check) valve is removed? I left it on.
2. How in the world does the ECU fit back in its box once you connect the emanage harness? Here's a pic of what I have and there's no way its fitting back in that box!
3. Where is it in the airinx that everyone is placing the metal screens from the old intake?
4. The metal fitting that scews into the arinx for the jet air fuel line just plain doesn't fit in that hole. It is slightly too big. Did anyone else have that problem?
Thanks in advance,
Ryan
1. With the VFAD hose that connects to the pressure sensor, does it matter if the white (check) valve is removed? I left it on.
2. How in the world does the ECU fit back in its box once you connect the emanage harness? Here's a pic of what I have and there's no way its fitting back in that box!
3. Where is it in the airinx that everyone is placing the metal screens from the old intake?
4. The metal fitting that scews into the arinx for the jet air fuel line just plain doesn't fit in that hole. It is slightly too big. Did anyone else have that problem?
Thanks in advance,
Ryan
2. You will have to take out the black plastic piece plus metal clamps and dremel the end facing the cabin. (pic included)
3. Philodox "glued" the 2 screens from the stock intake to the greddy airnix. (see pic) I replaced the airnix with a K&N filter and no need for the screens. K&N thread here.
4. Mine barely fit. Just crank on it. One full turn is enough to get it to stay.
Last edited by adrian-1; 05-29-2005 at 04:05 AM.
#183
Ex- member.
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by v300
I noticed that the E-01 and the e-Manage from the turbo kit both come with the same pressure sensor. If I am going to run both the e-Manage and the E-01 do I install 2 pressure senors or is there a way to split the signals??? In the meantime I have the valve (boost controller) between the actuator and the intake manifold port while the E-01 is not turned on.
I do not have the E-01 so I do not know.
#185
Ex- member.
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by v300
Here's another one... on the factory intake VFAD it attached to a canister below the factory airbox. Do I reattach that to the pressure sensor?
#186
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by adrian-1
No , the black canister is removed. The pressure sensor is connected to the nipple directly behind the throttle body.
Thanks so much for guiding me this far. For me this has been a Memorial Day project in my garage. I am almost done.
As for the tubes, I finally understand why you drew in those color lines... because the factory already marked it. I just had to wipe of the dirt and grease to see it.
Regarding the black canister; I removed it but there is a green sensor that is still attached to it. I was wondering if I should circulate the green sensor with the pressure sensor?
Cross my finger... my car should run anytime now. :D
#188
Ex- member.
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by v300
Regarding the black canister; I removed it but there is a green sensor that is still attached to it. I was wondering if I should circulate the green sensor with the pressure sensor?
It is not used, but I left it plugged in with the nipple left open. I wasn't sure if the computer would see it was disconnected (open signal) and then cause problems. Others have taken it out and they had no issues.
Last edited by adrian-1; 05-29-2005 at 12:21 PM.
#189
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Virginia/Maryland
Posts: 1,294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well I'm done! Went to start it and battery was dead. Bit of a problem considering I'm doing this install in a storage facility. Not the best idea by the way. The owner knows I'm up to something and has questioned me twice. He actually lives in the main office right next to the gate you have to go through to enter. Good thing I'm pretty much done. I think he'd flip if he opened the door and saw the little shop I have going. I had to tap into his electic lines for light and power tools!
I'll charge the battery tonight and give it a shot tomorrow.
One question. I believe the ECU fuse is labeled EGI comp 1 and EGI comp 2 in the fuse compartment under the hood. Can someone verify this is the right one to temporarily remove.
Thanks,
Ryan
I'll charge the battery tonight and give it a shot tomorrow.
One question. I believe the ECU fuse is labeled EGI comp 1 and EGI comp 2 in the fuse compartment under the hood. Can someone verify this is the right one to temporarily remove.
Thanks,
Ryan
#190
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Relating to the top reply by rkostolni.
There are actually three EGI fuse. EGI comp and EGI comp2 as well as a large light blue one that just says EGI. Which one do we remove? Pertaining to the ECU fuse, is it recommended that we remove this fuse everytime we lose power or take off the battery?
There are actually three EGI fuse. EGI comp and EGI comp2 as well as a large light blue one that just says EGI. Which one do we remove? Pertaining to the ECU fuse, is it recommended that we remove this fuse everytime we lose power or take off the battery?
#191
Ex- member.
Thread Starter
The instructions say to remove "the ECM" fuse and crank the engine until the oil light goes out. They want to get oil through the turbo before starting up the engine.
I didn't remove any fuse because I wasn't sure which one they were talking about (anybody else know?). I just started her up and let it idle for a few minutes, and looked for oil leaks. Also recheck the oil level since it should have gone down alittle.
As long as you do not rev it immediately after starting the engine you'll be fine.
I didn't remove any fuse because I wasn't sure which one they were talking about (anybody else know?). I just started her up and let it idle for a few minutes, and looked for oil leaks. Also recheck the oil level since it should have gone down alittle.
As long as you do not rev it immediately after starting the engine you'll be fine.
#192
OldeSpeede, Inc.
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, when i put my turbo kit in, all i had to do was do the "de-flooding" procedure. Just hold the pedal all the way to the floor and crank the engine. This cuts the fuel and will have the same effect as removing the ecm fuse. Got around to reinstalling the stock engine cover today over the top of the turbo and i must say that it is a bit quieter (which i like). Still cutting/trimming around the new strut bar and need to reattach some excess material cut from my k&N intake shield but install definitely looks much cleaner that way.
#193
How to install a BOV and where?
Originally Posted by adrian-1
Also, if installing a BOV or catchcan (not included with the kit) here's those hoses.
Connect the BOV hose to the greddy pressure sensor hose using a T-fitting.
Connect the catchcan inline to the oil filler pipe and air intake pipe.
Connect the BOV hose to the greddy pressure sensor hose using a T-fitting.
Connect the catchcan inline to the oil filler pipe and air intake pipe.
How do you go about installing the BOV and where is the best place to put it? I'm going to be purchasing this kit next week so I wan to go ahead and having everything else that I need. What's the best BOV to use? Plus is there anything on this list that I need in order to produce more power out of the Greddy kit?
BOV (not sure which one)
Greddy Profec B Spec II
Catch Can
CanScan software
Colder Plugs
?Anything else?
Thanks,
Jamie
#194
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
...hahaha... done! My car definitely drives like a true sportscar with the missing "umph" factor. Is it me or when after a long drive, the factory air pump/air control valve (or in that general area rather) tends to stay on for a while after the ignition is cut. I don't remember my stock car running longer than a minute...
#195
Banned
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by v300
...hahaha... done! My car definitely drives like a true sportscar with the missing "umph" factor. Is it me or when after a long drive, the factory air pump/air control valve (or in that general area rather) tends to stay on for a while after the ignition is cut. I don't remember my stock car running longer than a minute...
It is normal for that to run at different intervals depending on the way the car was driven.
If your air pump (under the hood, next to the passenger-side strut tower brace mount) is running after you drive, you have a real problem.
#196
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Grand Forks, ND
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why do you have a real problem? Mine does that everytime I shut the car off? I hear some electric motor start running for about 10 seconds after I shuttoff the car? My car needs some serious attention from someone that know's what there doing.....this is soo frustrating!
Joey
Joey
#199
Banned
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by papajoey79
Don't answer a question with a question, it doesn't make you look intelligent!
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
I presume you mean the evaporative system pump, which is in the back near the fuel tank.
It is normal for that to run at different intervals depending on the way the car was driven.
If your air pump (under the hood, next to the passenger-side strut tower brace mount) is running after you drive, you have a real problem.
It is normal for that to run at different intervals depending on the way the car was driven.
If your air pump (under the hood, next to the passenger-side strut tower brace mount) is running after you drive, you have a real problem.
#200
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Grand Forks, ND
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Air Pump.......I thought you knew what I was asking but you must of failed out of mind reading class seeing that I didn't tell you the Air Pump!! I do that alot...I just want my car to run better or like everyone elses
Last edited by papajoey79; 06-01-2005 at 11:38 AM.