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Greddy Turbo Installed - Details Inside!!!!

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Old 01-16-2005, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Spazm
I will be purchasing :

Greddy turbo kit
HKS SSQ BOV (rerouted to intake)
The HKS cant be rerouted. It doesn't have a port to which you can attach a hose. It is just an open vent.
It isn't designed to be a recirculation valve.

The Greddy can be, though I highly recommend this valve:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...t&itemid=85468

I have one on my Miata and it rocks.
Old 01-16-2005, 01:23 AM
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I live in Stockton actually. I used to live in Fremont though. Rick is the only place that I have heard of that sounded reputable and knowledgable about rotaries; the fact that he is putting the same kit on his own car only sealed the deal. I would be more than happy to have you come by.

Thanks MM for the feedback. I'm new to this performance car thing, and I'm trying to learn as much as I possibly can from these forums and trying to not sound too much like a fool. The description of that BOV sounds like it is specifically designed for certain applications; will it work in my case?
Old 01-16-2005, 01:24 AM
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A BOV comes with the kit right?
Old 01-16-2005, 01:24 AM
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No BOV comes with the kit.
Old 01-16-2005, 02:00 AM
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Can you do us a favour and post your dyno chart in your first post of this thread when you get it? That way people don't have to read through 42 + pages to find it

Awesome job dude.
Old 01-16-2005, 02:01 AM
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Damn i love your turbo, it show sound good and fast too. i would like to see a video that you drive by and hear the BOV, but i still like the sound from the inside.
Old 01-16-2005, 08:36 AM
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Can't remember if this question has been asked anywhere but after the engine is pretty well hot, and you’re going full boost did any of you take a measurement of the diameter of the plastic intake runners?

I've heard of some MP3 guys' Intake runners actually expanding and contracting as they got on and off the throttle, they're running much higher boost of course. I'm just wondering if its a issue at 5 or 6 psi?
Old 01-16-2005, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Omicron
Hey guys, not to put a damper on things, but...

While the aircraft-related stuff is interesting to a lot of us, it's not to everyone who comes to this thread wanting to learn about the Greddy Turbo. I've stripped those posts out of this thread and created you a new one containing them in the Lounge here. Let's try to keep this thread on topic - it's already 16+ pages. Thanks!

Thanks for keeping the thread clean.

RX8 DX
Old 01-16-2005, 09:25 AM
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The boost gauge is definitely a must, the first time you try to diagnose a problem with the system without one you'll regret it if you don't get one. At a minimum just buy a cheap one like an Autometer. If you don't think it matches don't install it...you can temporarily install it when you need it and then take it out. They may not be as accurate as some of the others, but for the purposes of diagnosing problems you mostly will just be looking for differences in behavior from the norm.

jds

Originally Posted by Nemesis8
I think the boost gauge is a must, it just adds that crazy look to the dash, and loads of fun factor, but your right, you might not really need it.

What about the boost gauge in the Mazda North American Operations car. I would like this gauge with the kit. Jon, do you think this would work?
Old 01-16-2005, 10:04 AM
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Okay guys, been away from the computer for a little while, so I'm going to try to cover all the questions you want answered that I missed over the last day or so. Here we go....

Originally Posted by rx8wannahave
I propose we all mail $1 to Philodox for shareing all of this with us. We can all get him something for his 8 or let him spend it. Philodox, I know you just wanted to share but it's been so cool seeing all the work and then the video.

Come on people...$1 for Philodox!
Hehe.. I appreciate the thoughts guys, but I don't want to break any forum rules.. though I may take you up on this when I decide to get a Street Port on the engine in about 6 months

Originally Posted by Spazm


All the meandering adds character I say!

Anyway, back on topic. I've decided that I am going to purchase this kit. Although originally I had thought of waiting for a kit that produces more power, the amount the Greddy is putting down seems perfect as the 8 is my daily driver.

So, philo, just to bother you more, any tips/hints for me putting this on?

Rick's Rotary Performance in Pleasanton will be doing the install. Funny thing is, I just called them today about it and they will be installing the kit on their own car this week! He and I mentioned this same thread...what a great site this is.

I will be purchasing :

Greddy turbo kit
HKS SSQ BOV (rerouted to intake)

As for the boost gauge...excuse my ignorance, but it isn't a necessity is it? With the low boost and the fixed maps, I would imagine that monitoring the boost shouldn't be a problem.

(Oh yes...I am the person who JUST bought your CZ philo...it'll be FS now )
Hehe.. For the little tricks, read the thread. I covered everything that had to be 'modified', such as the support braces for the intercooler. Just do a quick read through again of the actual install posts and you'll see what I am talking about.

As for the BOV, I highly suggest the GReddy Type-S. I don't have any issues with the BOV venting to atmosphere and it you do end up having MAF issues, it can be easily modified into a recirculating with an outlet adapter.

Originally Posted by Nemesis8
I think the boost gauge is a must, it just adds that crazy look to the dash, and loads of fun factor, but your right, you might not really need it.

What about the boost gauge in the Mazda North American Operations car. I would like this gauge with the kit. Jon, do you think this would work?
Personally, I only like the Defi gauges, in particular, the one I got. The Defi BF series gauges. You can get them in White and Amber (mine is white and is a PERFECT match for the stock gauge cluster).

Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
The HKS cant be rerouted. It doesn't have a port to which you can attach a hose. It is just an open vent.
It isn't designed to be a recirculation valve.

The Greddy can be, though I highly recommend this valve:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...t&itemid=85468

I have one on my Miata and it rocks.
That works too. But I just love the "pshhhssss" sound a VTA B.O.V gives. I recommend the Type-S, it's perfect for this application and is good for up to 18psi without destroying the diaphram inside.

Originally Posted by khtm
Can you do us a favour and post your dyno chart in your first post of this thread when you get it? That way people don't have to read through 42 + pages to find it

Awesome job dude.
Thanks. I sure will edit the first post with Dyno Results and Time Slips when I get down to the drag strip.


Originally Posted by PoLaK
Can't remember if this question has been asked anywhere but after the engine is pretty well hot, and you’re going full boost did any of you take a measurement of the diameter of the plastic intake runners?

I've heard of some MP3 guys' Intake runners actually expanding and contracting as they got on and off the throttle, they're running much higher boost of course. I'm just wondering if its a issue at 5 or 6 psi?
That's an issue that Jim (my mechanic) and I discussed. I'm running about 6.5-7.0psi, I shouldn't have a prolem with it exploding from too much pressure. However, once someone releases an aluminum one, I'm getting it. Not only is it stronger, but I can polish the hell out of it and it'll look HOT too

Originally Posted by bureau13
The boost gauge is definitely a must, the first time you try to diagnose a problem with the system without one you'll regret it if you don't get one. At a minimum just buy a cheap one like an Autometer. If you don't think it matches don't install it...you can temporarily install it when you need it and then take it out. They may not be as accurate as some of the others, but for the purposes of diagnosing problems you mostly will just be looking for differences in behavior from the norm.

jds
Exactly what he said. But you should get a quality gauge, can make the difference between blowing your engine, and knowing when it's about to go so you can shut down.



Also, I can't make it to the drag strip today. I've been commited to other plans by default. Those of you that are married or in a serious relationship know what that means :o
Old 01-16-2005, 12:03 PM
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Sounds like you have to put some "time" back into the relationship bank. The significant other has to be on board for a project like this :D
Old 01-16-2005, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dannobre
Sounds like you have to put some "time" back into the relationship bank. The significant other has to be on board for a project like this :D
No kidding.. we have an agreement.. I won't complain if she buys shoes if she doesn't complain of my car stuff
Old 01-16-2005, 12:16 PM
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Jon, you memetioned that you are running about 6.5-7.0 PSI. I thought the e-manage had this set at 5 PSI. Am I mistaken?
Old 01-16-2005, 12:26 PM
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Trick is to turn your wife into a horsepower junkie like I have.
She was going to bring lunch and the pomeranian along today to the track. She likes driving fast.
Old 01-16-2005, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Nemesis8
Jon, you memetioned that you are running about 6.5-7.0 PSI. I thought the e-manage had this set at 5 PSI. Am I mistaken?
The E-Manage isn't set for anything. The boost is set by the wastegate actuator, whcih is mechanically fixed.
Old 01-16-2005, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Nemesis8
Jon, you memetioned that you are running about 6.5-7.0 PSI. I thought the e-manage had this set at 5 PSI. Am I mistaken?
Okay, the GReddy instructions say that their kit is preset for boost levels of between 0.4kg/cm2 to 0.45kg/cm2. This equates to 39.24kPa to 44.15kPa or 5.69psi to 6.40psi. If you want to know how I got those kPa & psi numbers here are the conversions:

1kg/cm2=98.1kPa
1kPa = 0.145psi

However, my gauge reads between 45kPa to a peak of 52kPa or 6.5psi to a peak of 7.5psi. The average pressure I see is 48kPa or 7.0psi. I am not having any issues with detonation or the like. I believe each kit will vary a little bit from what GReddy says.

I am going to get a boost controller to stabilize the amount of boost use. I hope that answers your questions. Let me know if you need any other information.

Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
The E-Manage isn't set for anything. The boost is set by the wastegate actuator, whcih is mechanically fixed.
Correct, the wastegate actuator is connected by tubing to the intake manifold so it can get pressure to open the wastegate from that.
Old 01-16-2005, 01:01 PM
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Hehe.. I appreciate the thoughts guys, but I don't want to break any forum rules.. though I may take you up on this when I decide to get a Street Port on the engine in about 6 months
What dat mean? LOL, street port?

Hey, if I’m ever in NJ I’ll personally give you my $1. Or, buy you an ice cream or something…LOL

Also, I can't make it to the drag strip today. I've been commited to other plans by default. Those of you that are married or in a serious relationship know what that means
Don’t we love woman…LOL, it’s so funny how events, dates, and such appear out of no place. (Really, we just never listened the first time anyway…LOL)

Can’t wait for more vid’s, dyno, and time slips. You should start a new thread for these since this one is getting crazy long.
Old 01-16-2005, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rx8wannahave
Can’t wait for more vid’s, dyno, and time slips. You should start a new thread for these since this one is getting crazy long.
I am keeping the very first post of this thread updated with videos and dyno sheets when I get them. That way you guys don't have to go through every single post to find the data.
Old 01-16-2005, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
The HKS cant be rerouted. It doesn't have a port to which you can attach a hose. It is just an open vent.
It isn't designed to be a recirculation valve.
there is a recirc fitting available for the SSQV

http://935motorsports.com/catalog/pr...?products_id=8
Old 01-16-2005, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by philodox
Okay, the GReddy instructions say that their kit is preset for boost levels of between 0.4kg/cm2 to 0.45kg/cm2. This equates to 39.24kPa to 44.15kPa or 5.69psi to 6.40psi. If you want to know how I got those kPa & psi numbers here are the conversions:

1kg/cm2=98.1kPa
1kPa = 0.145psi

However, my gauge reads between 45kPa to a peak of 52kPa or 6.5psi to a peak of 7.5psi. The average pressure I see is 48kPa or 7.0psi. I am not having any issues with detonation or the like. I believe each kit will vary a little bit from what GReddy says.

I am going to get a boost controller to stabilize the amount of boost use. I hope that answers your questions. Let me know if you need any other information.


Correct, the wastegate actuator is connected by tubing to the intake manifold so it can get pressure to open the wastegate from that.
I was thinking maybe the gauge is what is giving the off reading??I would hope it was the gauge having the variation and not the greddy turbo,is there any way to try another gauge to make sure??..........I dont know just a thought
Old 01-16-2005, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Iwannarex8
I was thinking maybe the gauge is what is giving the off reading??I would hope it was the gauge having the variation and not the greddy turbo,is there any way to try another gauge to make sure??..........I dont know just a thought
The Defi BF series gauges are electronic, not mechanical. So their readings are significantly more accurate. Jeff (MazdaManiac) is having similar issues with his turbo as well. Even with a boost controller, there are still going to be tiny variances. An internal actuator style wastegate isn't going to be "perfect" either. What I am worried about is the average amount of boost, which currently I am quite happy with. I hope that answers your question.
Old 01-16-2005, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by philodox
The Defi BF series gauges are electronic, not mechanical. So their readings are significantly more accurate. Jeff (MazdaManiac) is having similar issues with his turbo as well. Even with a boost controller, there are still going to be tiny variances. An internal actuator style wastegate isn't going to be "perfect" either. What I am worried about is the average amount of boost, which currently I am quite happy with. I hope that answers your question.
yes definitely..........also if and when you go to get it dynoed, will they be able to take accurate psi and other readings through a piggyback hookup through the emanage??

On another note,was the track closed today?? or are you going later or leaving it for another day?? I had read you might go today.......Im in Queens NY and its cloudy and they said something about snow but nothing so far..........how is it where you live?
Old 01-16-2005, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Iwannarex8
yes definitely..........also if and when you go to get it dynoed, will they be able to take accurate psi and other readings through a piggyback hookup through the emanage??

On another note,was the track closed today?? or are you going later or leaving it for another day?? I had read you might go today.......Im in Queens NY and its cloudy and they said something about snow but nothing so far..........how is it where you live?
Not going to the track today because it's too cold and snow is forcast today... and I was drafted by the girlfriend to do something this afternoon.

The e-manage doesn't control boost at all, it just monitors intake vaccume/pressure so it so it can properly supply/take away fuel when needed. A boost gauge is connected directly to the intake manifold. Sometimes the air is a bit turbulant in there and can at times wreak havoc on the gauge since it measures vacuume and pressure. There really isn't any other way to measure the vacuume/boost pressure off the intake manifold that I know of other than a gauge. Does that explain it a bit better for you?

Last edited by philodox; 01-16-2005 at 02:33 PM.
Old 01-16-2005, 02:31 PM
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Jon be carfull with the shoe thing. I never paid attention to my ex-wife buying shoes. Then when she moved out it took two trips with a Blazer full up to get them out. When asked she ADMITED to there being $35,000 worth of them.
It's the boots that really drive it up at $300 to$700 a pair.
Old 01-16-2005, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard Paul
Jon be carfull with the shoe thing. I never paid attention to my ex-wife buying shoes. Then when she moved out it took two trips with a Blazer full up to get them out. When asked she ADMITED to there being $35,000 worth of them.
It's the boots that really drive it up at $300 to$700 a pair.
@&$%#@.... wow.. My girlfriend is a pretty frugal shopper, thank goodness..


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