slimjim

Hey Jon, just got back in town ,hope all is well.Did you get the oil pressure sensor? If you did bring it by the shop tomorow.....Jim

philodox

Took care of it today. Stopping by the shop tomorrow to chit chat.. see you then Jim.

Blowndreams21

Just as a follow up, you guys are WAY off on aluminum, my brothers been welding on everything metal for about 15 plus years 12 of those at a nuclear fuel plant, the trick to welding aluminum is realizing that the heat runs very quickly across the surface, aluminum does have a lower heat range compared to steel but it runs much faster than steel so while a torch will slice thru steel like butter, it is very useless on aluminum because its a slow heat, to weld it properly you must INCREASE your heat, hit it hard and hit it fast and you can weld it much cleaner, if anyone wants a full breakdown on proper technique i'll have my brother write up a little advice paper on it and post it .

J~

philodox

Hmm.. interesting.. My father was a master welder for 35 years.. he always told me he had to lower the voltage on his machine in order to weld it properly.. there must be a few techniques to do this.. anyhow.. it's a debate for a threat other than this one

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

The E-Manage has an algorithm that clamps the MAF when it sees the throttle drop to zero. That way, the unused metered air does very little to the A/Fs as it is blown off.

Yeah, voltage goes way down but the wire feed speed goes way up.

philodox

I really need to get this password for the e-manage. If I can get it by friday when we go to the dyno, could you help me lock that in?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Well, I'd think they have that enabled to some extent in your kit already.
But, perhaps not.
It won't completely stop the pops in part-throttle transitions out of boost, but it will correct any bogging in partial boost up-shifts.

philodox

The only bogging I notice isn't when I up-shift (that's perfect), but when current throttle position stops acceleration. For instance. I get on the throttle a little in 4th gear and when the boost pressure gets closer to vacume from lack of additional fuel, the BOV goes off because of the vaccume being created after the throttle body. I think the MAF sensor is giving me hell because of the unmetered air escaping the system. Does that make sense at all? The only thing I can do to stop that "bog" is to get off the throttle and let the intake get into a vaccume state and gradually apply the throttle until I get the desired speed, or go WOT until my next upshift. But when you go from boost to a vaccume state while still on the throttle, it gets bogged down at the neutral state between boost and vaccume.

Is that normal for most turbo's? I've never driven a FI car before this

ranger4277

Have you guys tried the password mentioned way back earlier in the thread here?

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ord#post688934

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Thats a CZ password...not one from Greddy........

epitrochoid

the vaccum to boost transition is pretty tough to tune perfectly. since youre going from a stock vaccum map with correction values, into a boost map that is all from the emanage. OEM's dont have this problem so much, since their maps include boost.

philodox

going from vacuum to boost isn't the problem, it's from boost to vacuum.. I found a way around it from playing with the throttle though. with the Greddy kit, if the transition from boost to vacuum is quick there isnt any problems.. it's when it's a gradual transition from boost to vacuum that I find it bog down. It's something that I'll definately try to tune out of the maps when I start fiddling around with optimizing performance.

Thanks for the input epitrochoid

Deca Auto

You can try hooking up the lower vacuum port on the greddy BOV. It will make your blow off more sensitive, or you can soften the spring up a notch. It seems your spring is too tight. Making it softer will make it quieter/less of the signature greddy sound, but it will definately improve performance and resolve any stalling or compressor surge issues.

philodox

The BOV is hooked at the lower vacuum port to the vacuum line right behind the throttle body. I had to tighten up the BOV because it would stall at the stock setting of the BOV because it wasn't firm enough (was letting TOO much air out of the system). It killed a little bit of the sound and made it more high pitched (though it sounds great still, very LOUD), but it won't stall the car from letting off the throttle from full boost.

I'm kind of confused now.. won't making the BOV more sensitive create a situation where it would stall easier from more unmetered air getting out of the system? I would think tightening it would be where I would want to go.

Deca Auto

Now your confusing me. The lower vacuum port is supposed to be connected to a source still pressurized after the throttle plate closes (IC pipes). It is an optional port and is intended for high horsepower cars. The top vacuum port is supposed to be connected to a vacuum source.

By sensitive I was meaning boost. It makes it more resistant in a vacuum state because it holds the valve down. Road race engineering told me told me softening the spring improves stalling issues and performance. I was reluctant at first but they were correct. It will make you run richer from the unmetered air, but it will help keep the turbo spooled and prevent compressor surge. Thats the disadvantage of running VTA.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

The lower port on a two port BOV is a pressure port. The upper port is the vacuum port.
You want to run the compression screw at about 50% of maximum and the vacuum source you are using to the upper nipple on the BOV.

Silverarrow

So, once and for all can someone explain the reason for 2 ports? and the top one is the main one? to run the vaccuum line too?

Mike

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

The top port is for vacuum and is attached to the intake manifold after the throttle plate.
When the throttle is closed, the IM goes into vacuum and liftes the piston in the BOV to release the pressure under it.
The bottom port (on BOVs that have one) is attached to the pressure port on the turbo where the wastergate gets its signal. This is at a higher pressure than the air in the pipe that the BOV is attached to because it hasn't suffered the losses of the intercooler and such.
This added pressure signal lifts the piston even faster and is useful in haigh boost applications where the BOV might not open fast enough otherwise.

T-von

If you haven't done so already, I would replace those tie-raps with something more durable. That hot mainfold is going to melt them. If that line starts to leak, you could loose oil pressure fairly quickly. Also since heat rises, I would cover that entire oil line with that heat sheild material.....not just that small part.

Silverarrow

Funny part is that portion of the line is actually metal, you only have about 6 or 7 in of ground you need to cover with the hose. i also used the sticky tape to cover mine, worked like a charm. Also on the bov, how much boost are we talking about before you need to use both hookups?

philodox

Ooopsie, just looked and I do have it on the top one.. heh.. sorry guys, been really tired lately

philodox

True, i'll put wires ties around them today

ctupton

So with the 2mpg increase what is that bringing up your intown MPG too, around 14mpg? or 17? just around town, mine get 15 if I drive in 6th everywhere or 13ish if I drive it how I want too... and I get high 18's with mixed highway/city driving... so just curious on where yours was prior to the change...

philodox

Currently I'm at 13mpg. Before the turbo it was 10-11mpg. With my driving style, I always keep the rev's between 3.5k and 5k so I can stay in the power band. How in order to stay "out of boost" I can't give as much throttle as I used to driving around the city. So I try to keep the revs around 3.5k tops while in traffic otherwise the car will really jump if the boost kicks in. Make sense?

SIDE NOTE: I mentioned in another thread after I cleared the non-volatile memory that gas milage went up to 22mpg, that was for 1 tank only.. then it went back down to 10mpg'ish.. heh..

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Wow. Your gas mileage is terrible.

I typically see about 17 MPG and I thought that was bad.

Of course, right now with the turbo and all the fuel curve adjustments I am making, I'm around 14 MPG.
On the highway, I still see around 20 MPG.