Greddy Turbo Installed - Details Inside!!!!
#1026
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Originally Posted by Richard Paul
Oh damn, just heard on the tube, NJ has lowered the max speed in the state to 45 mph due to the blizzard. Don't go breaking any speed limits Jon.
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#1027
RX8 and a Truk....
Originally Posted by philodox
I just looked at the old dyno sheet from my pre-turbo dyno runs. I would take a digi pic of it, but it's hard to tell the difference between the stock plots and the Canzoomer plots when it was installed on my 8. It's confusing me looking at it, so fudging a digi pic of it would be pointless.
However, I am eyeballing the plots and compating stock to turbo. With the turbo, I have approx 40hp more at 3000 RPM, 50hp more at 3500RPM compared to stock... then from 4000 RPM on up it's about 55-65hp more than stock.. So from what I see in the graphs, the extra HP comes really early.. around 3000RPM. That's when the turbo spools up which makes sense.
However, I am eyeballing the plots and compating stock to turbo. With the turbo, I have approx 40hp more at 3000 RPM, 50hp more at 3500RPM compared to stock... then from 4000 RPM on up it's about 55-65hp more than stock.. So from what I see in the graphs, the extra HP comes really early.. around 3000RPM. That's when the turbo spools up which makes sense.
Good info John, thanks -
Question: Were your numbers 'corrected' or 'measured'? If they were SAE, can you find the correction value?
Let's think for a second...
40-65 more HP at 66% of the available powerband...That sounds great. While I am growing more frustrated at Mazda's refusal to 're-update' their claimed power levels, that GReddy turbo system may just be the ticket, eh?
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-darin
#1028
1st 13 sec Mazda MP3
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Originally Posted by pr0ber
how is that? the engine is still producing the same power, its only the rear wheels which are turning slower. The only downside is the dyno takes a bit longer to run (but also gives you better resolution, more power showing up, and more repeatable results) which shouldn't matter as long as your cooling system is up to power.
#1029
Stuck in a love triangle
Originally Posted by dmp
40-65 more HP at 66% of the available powerband...That sounds great. While I am growing more frustrated at Mazda's refusal to 're-update' their claimed power levels, that GReddy turbo system may just be the ticket, eh?
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#1030
I love GOOOLD
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just out of curiousity. how would water injection be on a turbocharged rotary?? i'm coming from the MR2 community where WI was very popular. it allows you to run more boost and tune more aggressively, at the same time, being safer. although adding water injection isn't going to give you power itself, it allows you to turn up the heat, which in return gives you those wanted ponies.
#1031
RX7store.net
Water injection has become popular on the RX-7 and works very well. It is something that would work on the RX-8 and allow you to run more boost on pump gas.
Jason
www.rx8store.com
Jason
www.rx8store.com
#1033
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If you're running a WI setup for added safety margin, great. If you're running it so you can tune for it, i.e. turn up the boost beyond what you would otherwise do, you'd better be damned sure you don't run out of water or something doesn't fail in the system.
jds
jds
Originally Posted by Im_DANomite
just out of curiousity. how would water injection be on a turbocharged rotary?? i'm coming from the MR2 community where WI was very popular. it allows you to run more boost and tune more aggressively, at the same time, being safer. although adding water injection isn't going to give you power itself, it allows you to turn up the heat, which in return gives you those wanted ponies.
#1034
Originally Posted by bureau13
If you're running a WI setup for added safety margin, great. If you're running it so you can tune for it, i.e. turn up the boost beyond what you would otherwise do, you'd better be damned sure you don't run out of water or something doesn't fail in the system.
Water injection is cheaper than an intercooler and reduces the length of intake pipes and doesn't restrict the airflow. I wonder why it's not more common it shouldn't be that difficult to control it and make it save. I heard rumors about potential corrosion but don't see how that could indeed be an issue as long as it always evaporates before reaching the engine and distilled water is being used.
Of course there's the inconvenience of having to fill a water reservoir occasionally.
#1035
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It has a much greater chance of failure than an intercooler and even without any failures you have to keep filling it...plus I doubt its much cheaper than an IC if you do it right.
jds
jds
#1036
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We've been through this before. WI can be usfull but as someone just said to use it as an intrical part of your tuneing system is nnot good. It is a band aid. What is it doing? Putting out the fire that's what.
If it saves you from burning a piston then it did it's job, but if that is your MO then you designed the package wrong.
We used water/alcohol in the race Merlins but were running 50psi at times. Notice that we used the alcohol to make up for the lost heat. Methanol burns cool has great latent heat of evaporation. Don't use ethanol.
If you must use it use 50/50 alki/h2o. Distilled water of course.
Don't mistake pure water for distilled.
If it saves you from burning a piston then it did it's job, but if that is your MO then you designed the package wrong.
We used water/alcohol in the race Merlins but were running 50psi at times. Notice that we used the alcohol to make up for the lost heat. Methanol burns cool has great latent heat of evaporation. Don't use ethanol.
If you must use it use 50/50 alki/h2o. Distilled water of course.
Don't mistake pure water for distilled.
#1037
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My brother had an Srt-4 that he installed a WI kit on, and it made his car absolutly sick.... with it, he was able to crank up the stock turbo with out any detonation....
#1038
Philodox
You don't have a Gtech do you?
It would be good to see some numbers/graphs with the intercooler & intake getting their full quota of cool air!
When the snow stops!!!!!!!!
You don't have a Gtech do you?
It would be good to see some numbers/graphs with the intercooler & intake getting their full quota of cool air!
When the snow stops!!!!!!!!
![EEK!](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#1039
Rangers Lead The Way!
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Originally Posted by Kenco
Philodox
You don't have a Gtech do you?
It would be good to see some numbers/graphs with the intercooler & intake getting their full quota of cool air!
When the snow stops!!!!!!!!![EEK!](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/eek.gif)
You don't have a Gtech do you?
It would be good to see some numbers/graphs with the intercooler & intake getting their full quota of cool air!
When the snow stops!!!!!!!!
![EEK!](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#1042
1st 13 sec Mazda MP3
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I haven an Auterra (for the Palm OS) that hooks up through OBD-II. It can give you all sorts of info from your ECU, and on top of it, it can time 0-60 / 1/4 mile runs, etc. It's pretty spot on. You can even give it a bunch of info like the frontal area of your car, the weight, gear ratios, conditions, etc, and it can give you a dyno chart if you do a pull in the gear of your choice.
Believe it or not, it's reasonably accurate too.
Believe it or not, it's reasonably accurate too.
#1045
RX8 and a Truk....
Originally Posted by philodox
Sorry, no Gtech.. I've always heard they are pretty unreliable. So I never went out to buy one.
#1046
Banned
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Originally Posted by philodox
Sorry, no Gtech.. I've always heard they are pretty unreliable. So I never went out to buy one.
Considering the Apollo missions were guided by inertial accelerometers that were far less accurate, I think the G-Tech is amazingly veracious.
The trick is knowing how to use it, knowing the accurate specs for your testing situation and, most importantly, knowing what it does and does not do.
Too many people just slap one on their dash and go out blasting down the highway.
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#1048
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Originally Posted by pr0ber
umm no... you can only reach 100% load
#1049
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In order for the dyno to work, it has to put enough stress on the engine to reach 100% load no matter what gear your in and the engine can only produce xxx hp no matter what gear your in. A dyno is not going to load the car to the point where it stops the wheels and spins them backwards - which would happen if you hit much much more then 100% load.
The only result in the end of using a higher gear is the wheels spin at a much faster speed and will accelerate at a much slower pace then using a taller gear - which is what you want because the slower acceleration means less inertial losses in the drivetrain (plus if your in 5th the power gets transmitted directly through the tranny rather then going through a secondary shaft). The old 15% drivetrain loss rule implies you are in the 1:1 gear ratio or else it is going to be much greater. FWIW, before reading this board the only time i've ever heard of people dynoing a car in anything other then the 1:1 drive gear is when they are doing quick a/f tuning runs and just using the results to compare against other runs done that way.
Think of how much hp "increase" is observed from a flywheel in 1st gear compared to 4th gear... its the same laws of physics working
When i use to test engines in an engine lab we would actually hold the throttle wide open and then adjust the dyno resistance so that the rpms would remain constant for a good 30 sec at steady state and basically work our way up throughout the rev band that way to get the most repeatable results.
The only result in the end of using a higher gear is the wheels spin at a much faster speed and will accelerate at a much slower pace then using a taller gear - which is what you want because the slower acceleration means less inertial losses in the drivetrain (plus if your in 5th the power gets transmitted directly through the tranny rather then going through a secondary shaft). The old 15% drivetrain loss rule implies you are in the 1:1 gear ratio or else it is going to be much greater. FWIW, before reading this board the only time i've ever heard of people dynoing a car in anything other then the 1:1 drive gear is when they are doing quick a/f tuning runs and just using the results to compare against other runs done that way.
Think of how much hp "increase" is observed from a flywheel in 1st gear compared to 4th gear... its the same laws of physics working
When i use to test engines in an engine lab we would actually hold the throttle wide open and then adjust the dyno resistance so that the rpms would remain constant for a good 30 sec at steady state and basically work our way up throughout the rev band that way to get the most repeatable results.
#1050
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Originally Posted by Kooldino
I haven an Auterra (for the Palm OS) that hooks up through OBD-II. It can give you all sorts of info from your ECU, and on top of it, it can time 0-60 / 1/4 mile runs, etc. It's pretty spot on. You can even give it a bunch of info like the frontal area of your car, the weight, gear ratios, conditions, etc, and it can give you a dyno chart if you do a pull in the gear of your choice.
Believe it or not, it's reasonably accurate too.
Believe it or not, it's reasonably accurate too.