Greddy Turbo Installed - Details Inside!!!!
03-03-2005, 12:45 AM
#1526
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Any of you with the turbo kit care to get rid of your old stock exhaust manifold?
CRH
CRH
03-03-2005, 01:00 AM
#1527
Okay, I won't tell you that. I would like a manifold to give to my machinist so we know the general space we have for design limits. Geez. 
I would love to have a sample of that flange you are using. Mild steel is fine for mock-ups. How can I re-pay you? Deep discount on a Ti PPF, perhaps?
Do you think the exhaust problems are largely caused by the port mis-match? Just wondering.
CRH
I would love to have a sample of that flange you are using. Mild steel is fine for mock-ups. How can I re-pay you? Deep discount on a Ti PPF, perhaps?Do you think the exhaust problems are largely caused by the port mis-match? Just wondering.
CRH
03-03-2005, 02:15 AM
#1528
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Charles I have my stock exhaust manifold lying around after my turbo install. If you want to take it shoot me a PM with your adderess. One of these days I will figure out what PPF means.
Last edited by Fanman; 03-03-2005 at 02:25 AM.
03-03-2005, 02:17 AM
#1529
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I think is it a combination of things. The stock manifold does indeed look like crap in terms of where the air flows through it. However, if the exhaust ports themselves don't really flow much better, the stock manifold suddenly isn't much of a problem. I think that the ports need to be cleaned up, they need to be totally separated, and we need a better exhaust manifold. For all I know this may still only yield a few horsepower since we have no port overlap to aid in scavenging. I don't yet know.
Since I don't own an RX-8, a ppf won't do me much good.
Since I don't own an RX-8, a ppf won't do me much good.
03-03-2005, 11:07 AM
#1531
R.G., forget the PPF then. Go get yourself an RX-8, will ya? As much as you have helped me in the past, let me know if there is any way I can repay the courtesy sometime.
CRH
CRH
03-03-2005, 02:51 PM
#1532
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Before i open i new thread i thought i post this picture here.....
found on a german form.....one of the german forummembers is working on a 460hp turbo and it will be finnished with in 3 months.
+sry for my bad english+
found on a german form.....one of the german forummembers is working on a 460hp turbo and it will be finnished with in 3 months.
+sry for my bad english+
03-03-2005, 05:15 PM
#1533
Captain Spaulding
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New Greddy Turbo Installed
I had the turbo kit installed last week by Acosta Motorsports last week. They did a great job - the install was $1200, which I knew ahead of time. Some problems I have encountered;
- CEL at start up, multiple times after resetting
spoke to Benny at Greddy, he told me that 50% of the installs could see this CEL which Greddy was working on. I have a Greddy wide band A/F gauge. It seems like the tuning is too rich on start up, reading initially 11-12, as opposed to 14-15 stock, which was great.
- Car stumbling and running too rich at WOT - after 5k and WOT - A/F gauge is reading 11 and lower.
Spoke to Benny about this condition and he told me the kit was designed to be used with stock CAT, I have SR high flow cat. He told me to replace or retune. I plan on bringing car back to Acosta next week to retune.
Over all I am rellly enjoying the turbo, what a difference, I am anxious to see difference tuned properly.
- CEL at start up, multiple times after resetting
spoke to Benny at Greddy, he told me that 50% of the installs could see this CEL which Greddy was working on. I have a Greddy wide band A/F gauge. It seems like the tuning is too rich on start up, reading initially 11-12, as opposed to 14-15 stock, which was great.
- Car stumbling and running too rich at WOT - after 5k and WOT - A/F gauge is reading 11 and lower.
Spoke to Benny about this condition and he told me the kit was designed to be used with stock CAT, I have SR high flow cat. He told me to replace or retune. I plan on bringing car back to Acosta next week to retune.
Over all I am rellly enjoying the turbo, what a difference, I am anxious to see difference tuned properly.
03-03-2005, 11:46 PM
#1536
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
What? You mean take it out?
That would suck...
That would suck...
03-04-2005, 01:11 AM
#1538
Ooh. Titanium.
That is a point where I think Mazda might have dropped the ball. I guess it was just more economical to make the PPF out of stamped steel.
The Miata PPF is tubular steel.
The best construction is probably rolled CF, but there isn't any good way to do that via mass production.
The stock unit seems to weigh about 20 lbs. A CF version would probably be less than 10 lbs. Titanium would probably net out at 15 lbs or so, though titanium is overkill - it just doesn't have to be that strong.
That is a point where I think Mazda might have dropped the ball. I guess it was just more economical to make the PPF out of stamped steel.
The Miata PPF is tubular steel.
The best construction is probably rolled CF, but there isn't any good way to do that via mass production.
The stock unit seems to weigh about 20 lbs. A CF version would probably be less than 10 lbs. Titanium would probably net out at 15 lbs or so, though titanium is overkill - it just doesn't have to be that strong.
03-04-2005, 01:34 AM
#1539
Registered
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Ooh. Titanium.
That is a point where I think Mazda might have dropped the ball. I guess it was just more economical to make the PPF out of stamped steel.
The Miata PPF is tubular steel.
The best construction is probably rolled CF, but there isn't any good way to do that via mass production.
The stock unit seems to weigh about 20 lbs. A CF version would probably be less than 10 lbs. Titanium would probably net out at 15 lbs or so, though titanium is overkill - it just doesn't have to be that strong.
That is a point where I think Mazda might have dropped the ball. I guess it was just more economical to make the PPF out of stamped steel.
The Miata PPF is tubular steel.
The best construction is probably rolled CF, but there isn't any good way to do that via mass production.
The stock unit seems to weigh about 20 lbs. A CF version would probably be less than 10 lbs. Titanium would probably net out at 15 lbs or so, though titanium is overkill - it just doesn't have to be that strong.
03-04-2005, 01:53 AM
#1540
Correct, Jeff, Ti is overkill and the raw stock price just jumped to $25/lb. I don't want to divert the subject away from GReddy or turbos but since we are here, this is the latest;
On Saturday Brian and I will get together and begin welding the very first PPF unit. We have decided to make it out of 6061-T4 aluminum because it is cheaper, lighter, and stronger than Ti, at least in this application. I originally selected Ti just to have some exotic metal on my car in the event I am selected for the USCC. Lately, though, I have noticed that those who were/are interested in my PPF were more captivated by weight loss than the Ti, itself(not to mention patient with how long this is taking). Between that and GeorgeH's suggestion that the Ti's modulus of elasticity might pose a problem, along with the recent price spike, we have switched to the 6061.(Thanks, G.)
The factory piece seems to weigh much more than 20 lbs. Either way, we will see a reduction of about 50-60%, overall, and the price will be very affordable for the serious enthusiast. We may offer the PPF with polished, anodized, and powder-painted finishes. I know the first one that goes on my car will be polished. I'll post photos as soon as I can on the PPF thread. Now, getting back to the Greddy topic.....
I have decided to quash the idea of putting a GReddy turbo on my car for several reasons that I won't get into here. However, since I only trust Mr. Abrams with the answer to this question I will offer him the second PPF in the finish of his choice if he chooses to help me. Knowing that I have been a real pain in the *** lately, my question is this;
Which specific GReddy parts do I need in order to most easily fine-tune my fuel and ignition systems? I plan on using the E-Manage, E-01, ignition harness, RPM adapter, and/or whatever else you tell me I will need. I plan on setting up the first map, assuming two are available, to provide the best all around N/A performance. The second map will be optimized to accomodate a 100-125 h.p. shot from my Zex kit. I already know which parameters I would like to use on the second map but I need to know if the E-Man can switch between the two using only the E-01(or do I need the Profec to do that?).
I realize this answer may be found elsewhere on this forum so if you can direct me to that thread the offer for the PPF still stands if you would be so kind as to help me with some of the details when I install this damn thing. Your knowledge and expertise are both priceless but the PPF is all I can offer. My daughter is too young.
Thanks, Jeff.
CRH
On Saturday Brian and I will get together and begin welding the very first PPF unit. We have decided to make it out of 6061-T4 aluminum because it is cheaper, lighter, and stronger than Ti, at least in this application. I originally selected Ti just to have some exotic metal on my car in the event I am selected for the USCC. Lately, though, I have noticed that those who were/are interested in my PPF were more captivated by weight loss than the Ti, itself(not to mention patient with how long this is taking). Between that and GeorgeH's suggestion that the Ti's modulus of elasticity might pose a problem, along with the recent price spike, we have switched to the 6061.(Thanks, G.)
The factory piece seems to weigh much more than 20 lbs. Either way, we will see a reduction of about 50-60%, overall, and the price will be very affordable for the serious enthusiast. We may offer the PPF with polished, anodized, and powder-painted finishes. I know the first one that goes on my car will be polished. I'll post photos as soon as I can on the PPF thread. Now, getting back to the Greddy topic.....
I have decided to quash the idea of putting a GReddy turbo on my car for several reasons that I won't get into here. However, since I only trust Mr. Abrams with the answer to this question I will offer him the second PPF in the finish of his choice if he chooses to help me. Knowing that I have been a real pain in the *** lately, my question is this;
Which specific GReddy parts do I need in order to most easily fine-tune my fuel and ignition systems? I plan on using the E-Manage, E-01, ignition harness, RPM adapter, and/or whatever else you tell me I will need. I plan on setting up the first map, assuming two are available, to provide the best all around N/A performance. The second map will be optimized to accomodate a 100-125 h.p. shot from my Zex kit. I already know which parameters I would like to use on the second map but I need to know if the E-Man can switch between the two using only the E-01(or do I need the Profec to do that?).
I realize this answer may be found elsewhere on this forum so if you can direct me to that thread the offer for the PPF still stands if you would be so kind as to help me with some of the details when I install this damn thing. Your knowledge and expertise are both priceless but the PPF is all I can offer. My daughter is too young.
Thanks, Jeff.
CRH
Last edited by Charles R. Hill; 03-04-2005 at 02:00 AM.
03-04-2005, 02:07 AM
#1542
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I'm down for an aluminum piece. Any way to get the weight savings, yet still keep the structural stiffness I'm all for.
As for the Greddy E Manage I am getting the software, ignition & injector harness to play with my E Manage.
As for the Greddy E Manage I am getting the software, ignition & injector harness to play with my E Manage.
03-04-2005, 02:14 AM
#1543
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
I have decided to quash the idea of putting a GReddy turbo on my car for several reasons that I won't get into here. However, since I only trust Mr. Abrams with the answer to this question I will offer him the second PPF in the finish of his choice if he chooses to help me. Knowing that I have been a real pain in the *** lately, my question is this;
Which specific GReddy parts do I need in order to most easily fine-tune my fuel and ignition systems? I plan on using the E-Manage, E-01, ignition harness, RPM adapter, and/or whatever else you tell me I will need. I plan on setting up the first map, assuming two are available, to provide the best all around N/A performance. The second map will be optimized to accomodate a 100-125 h.p. shot from my Zex kit. I already know which parameters I would like to use on the second map but I need to know if the E-Man can switch between the two using only the E-01(or do I need the Profec to do that?).
I realize this answer may be found elsewhere on this forum so if you can direct me to that thread the offer for the PPF still stands if you would be so kind as to help me with some of the details when I install this damn thing. Your knowledge and expertise are both priceless but the PPF is all I can offer. My daughter is too young.
Thanks, Jeff.
CRH
Which specific GReddy parts do I need in order to most easily fine-tune my fuel and ignition systems? I plan on using the E-Manage, E-01, ignition harness, RPM adapter, and/or whatever else you tell me I will need. I plan on setting up the first map, assuming two are available, to provide the best all around N/A performance. The second map will be optimized to accomodate a 100-125 h.p. shot from my Zex kit. I already know which parameters I would like to use on the second map but I need to know if the E-Man can switch between the two using only the E-01(or do I need the Profec to do that?).
I realize this answer may be found elsewhere on this forum so if you can direct me to that thread the offer for the PPF still stands if you would be so kind as to help me with some of the details when I install this damn thing. Your knowledge and expertise are both priceless but the PPF is all I can offer. My daughter is too young.
Thanks, Jeff.
CRH
):First of all - I think the E-01 Profec is overkill for your application - unless you can still get the E-01 programmer only version. They have pulled it from production, so hurry up if you want one.
For real tuning purposes, a laptop is a better starting point since it has more screen real estate. If you don't have one, you can get one that is more than adequate for this purpose on E-Bay for $200.
I'm not sure you really want two separate sets of maps just to spray or not spray. It seems to me you should just tune as best you can with the E-Manage and let the Zex kit do what it likes best.
However, you could use the boost input on the E-Manage to control the fuel/timing and hook it up to the nitrous controller some how.
I think I'm just not understanding quite what you need.
Nitrous is quite different from boost in that you mix it with fuel like you would mix epoxy - in equal amounts. Just open the solenoids and stomp on it.
Now, if reducing your ignition timing or adding fuel without a dedicated fuel solenoid is what you are looking for, this is right up the E-Manage's alley.
Maybe if you can describe your goals for me in more detail and the issues as you see them, I could be of more help.
The E-Manage is a very capable tool (especially with the E-01 attached), but you might not need a Swiss Army knife to do the work of a spoon.
03-04-2005, 02:31 AM
#1544
Since I have bagged the turbo idea, I agree that the Profec is overkill. The E-01 is still listed on-line. If I can't get that, I guess a laptop and the support tool are in order, eh? If I use a laptop, how do I switch maps as needed?
I thought about the boost input as you have because the Zex is triggered by throttle body voltage. I figured if I can tell the E-Man to cut the ignition timing when it sees 12v at one circuit AND 3.9v in another, I will have a fully-automated system. That would be awesome.
Remember, I am running a "wet" nitrous kit so I can jet it properly as a stand-alone application as opposed to needing the factory injectors to add fuel. That's why I would like two maps. In order to get to levels higher than the 55 shot I am currently using I need to reduce the ignition advance. I have been told there are limitations to the E-Man with regard to automating the timing reduction and nitrous hit in the manner I previously mentioned. If that is true, the closest I can come is a second map with the reduction in advance coming above 4K rpm. I am thinking that I can activate the second map when I am lurking around my favorite street racing area. Keeping my cruising rpm's below 4K will cause the engine to run as it would otherwise. In a racing situation I launch at 4k anyway so arming the nitrous with the second map activated will be as close as I can get to a fully automated stand-alone ECU. The nitrous shot hits at WOT.
Which finish would you like on that PPF?
CRH
I thought about the boost input as you have because the Zex is triggered by throttle body voltage. I figured if I can tell the E-Man to cut the ignition timing when it sees 12v at one circuit AND 3.9v in another, I will have a fully-automated system. That would be awesome.
Remember, I am running a "wet" nitrous kit so I can jet it properly as a stand-alone application as opposed to needing the factory injectors to add fuel. That's why I would like two maps. In order to get to levels higher than the 55 shot I am currently using I need to reduce the ignition advance. I have been told there are limitations to the E-Man with regard to automating the timing reduction and nitrous hit in the manner I previously mentioned. If that is true, the closest I can come is a second map with the reduction in advance coming above 4K rpm. I am thinking that I can activate the second map when I am lurking around my favorite street racing area. Keeping my cruising rpm's below 4K will cause the engine to run as it would otherwise. In a racing situation I launch at 4k anyway so arming the nitrous with the second map activated will be as close as I can get to a fully automated stand-alone ECU. The nitrous shot hits at WOT.
Which finish would you like on that PPF?
CRH
03-04-2005, 11:27 AM
#1545
OK. I get it now.
You don't need two maps.
If there is a trigger or control voltage of any kind present from the Zex kit when it starts to spray, you just wire it up with a transistor or similar to produce a voltage between 2v and 5v DC (unless it is already in that range, in which case you can hook it up directly).
You then wire that to the boost input on the E-Manage.
Then you set up the ignition map to retard however much you want when it sees the amount of "boost" to which the above mentioned voltage is equivalent (ie - 2.05v is 9 PSI to the E-Manage).
That way, it will never retard the ignition under normal driving situations so you don't have to "lurk".
Better yet, if you are using a "progressive" nitrous kit, you can have the ignition follow the duty cycle of the solenoid.
That might be more difficult if the solenoid is pulsed, but it can be done.
Even more trick, you can still have ignition control when driving under "normal" conditions if you want (though I found only minimal benefit from ignition advance when N/A).
If you set the ignition map to control via the AFM, it expects to see a voltage from 1.2v or so up to about 4.3v.
You set your map to run from 1.1v to 5v. Then, you use the transistor setup from above to produce exactly 5v when the nitrous is on.
You splice that voltage to the MAF circuit via a diode to the E-Manage (which will keep the PCM happy - you don't want 5v suddenly telling the PCM that you are going supersonic) so that when the NO2 is flowing, the map goes to full.
Then, you can tune that last timing row (that the car would never make it to on its own normal air flow) for the amount of retard you need while spraying.
BTW - I can build the ignition protection circuit for you, when you need it. I have all the parts in the shop.
You don't need two maps.
If there is a trigger or control voltage of any kind present from the Zex kit when it starts to spray, you just wire it up with a transistor or similar to produce a voltage between 2v and 5v DC (unless it is already in that range, in which case you can hook it up directly).
You then wire that to the boost input on the E-Manage.
Then you set up the ignition map to retard however much you want when it sees the amount of "boost" to which the above mentioned voltage is equivalent (ie - 2.05v is 9 PSI to the E-Manage).
That way, it will never retard the ignition under normal driving situations so you don't have to "lurk".
Better yet, if you are using a "progressive" nitrous kit, you can have the ignition follow the duty cycle of the solenoid.
That might be more difficult if the solenoid is pulsed, but it can be done.
Even more trick, you can still have ignition control when driving under "normal" conditions if you want (though I found only minimal benefit from ignition advance when N/A).
If you set the ignition map to control via the AFM, it expects to see a voltage from 1.2v or so up to about 4.3v.
You set your map to run from 1.1v to 5v. Then, you use the transistor setup from above to produce exactly 5v when the nitrous is on.
You splice that voltage to the MAF circuit via a diode to the E-Manage (which will keep the PCM happy - you don't want 5v suddenly telling the PCM that you are going supersonic) so that when the NO2 is flowing, the map goes to full.
Then, you can tune that last timing row (that the car would never make it to on its own normal air flow) for the amount of retard you need while spraying.
BTW - I can build the ignition protection circuit for you, when you need it. I have all the parts in the shop.
03-04-2005, 05:54 PM
#1546
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
The factory piece seems to weigh much more than 20 lbs. Either way, we will see a reduction of about 50-60%, overall, and the price will be very affordable for the serious enthusiast. We may offer the PPF with polished, anodized, and powder-painted finishes. I know the first one that goes on my car will be polished. I'll post photos as soon as I can on the PPF thread.
Oh, well, I forgot, if you plan on shipping on international scale...maybe we can chat privately about this one...
03-04-2005, 07:08 PM
#1547
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I would take an aluminum one. It is much less expensive & is easier to weld. Titanium you need a complete argon environment. You can make aluminum very strong just adjust the thickness. This car can really use these weight savings, it's not like we have a 3600 lb. car that you drop 20 lbs. & it makes no difference. At 3000 lbs. you take 50-100 lbs. off this car & it will besubstantial.
03-04-2005, 11:11 PM
#1548
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I have a question....Im buying the Greddy turbo for my 8 in about 3 months, does it come with a blow-off valve or do you have to order that seperate? and...is it worth installing yourself, or are you better off getting a professional to do it for you?
