Greddy Turbo Installed - Details Inside!!!!
#1551
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No it does not come with a BOV, you have to do some welding if you want one. Best bet is the Greddy Type S/Type RS or the HKS SSV.
Unless you are a pro I would not advise that you install this yourself. Unless you have a lift, it is not an easy install as the turbo has to go behind the right wheel well.
Unless you are a pro I would not advise that you install this yourself. Unless you have a lift, it is not an easy install as the turbo has to go behind the right wheel well.
#1552
Jeff, it might be more efficient to move our conversation to the p.m. or telephone so as to not clutter up this thread. If that doesn't suit you then I'll continue right as we are. Thanks for that offer on the coil circuit. It would be a huge help. BTW, I ordered my E-Man, E-01, ignition harness, and rpm extractor. The E-01 and extractor are not due 'til end of March.
Anyway, I gotta run for the moment. Is there any way we can communicate directly so as to speed up the communication process? Is it possible for me to install this stuff and drive to wherever you are and spend a weekend together tuning the map(s), installing your new PPF, and riding around in a 400+ rwhp RX-8?
Your interpretation of that which I am trying to do is exactly on target. I ran that very same idea past my local GReddy "tuner" and he said the E-Man would not work that way. Of course, he was also among those who said nitrous wouldn't work either. Let's prove these so called "professional' tuners wrong once again. Remember, Acosta early on told another forum member that 300+ h.p. would "break your engine" and laughed at the very notion. I am finding out that the so called "experts" know nothing more than the rest of us. The difference is that we are sharing our results.
Which finish is it that you would like for your PPF?
Thanks, again for the help. You are a Godsend.
Charles Hill
Anyway, I gotta run for the moment. Is there any way we can communicate directly so as to speed up the communication process? Is it possible for me to install this stuff and drive to wherever you are and spend a weekend together tuning the map(s), installing your new PPF, and riding around in a 400+ rwhp RX-8?
Your interpretation of that which I am trying to do is exactly on target. I ran that very same idea past my local GReddy "tuner" and he said the E-Man would not work that way. Of course, he was also among those who said nitrous wouldn't work either. Let's prove these so called "professional' tuners wrong once again. Remember, Acosta early on told another forum member that 300+ h.p. would "break your engine" and laughed at the very notion. I am finding out that the so called "experts" know nothing more than the rest of us. The difference is that we are sharing our results.
Which finish is it that you would like for your PPF?
Thanks, again for the help. You are a Godsend.
Charles Hill
#1553
Modulated Moderator
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The problem with most "expert anything" is that they tend to not think outside of the box. They often learned it one way...and despite the fact that there are other ways to do things...they say that their way is the "only way that works"
Real innovators...usually don't profess to be experts at anything...they are always students.
The best way is what works now...till a better solution comes along.
The last part is really important though...the new solution has to work better............
Change for changes sake...= Marketing:D...and someone selling you a line!
Real innovators...usually don't profess to be experts at anything...they are always students.
The best way is what works now...till a better solution comes along.
The last part is really important though...the new solution has to work better............
Change for changes sake...= Marketing:D...and someone selling you a line!
#1555
Swedishmax did exactly what he was supposed to do, search. That's how he ended up here. The problem is that I have somewhat hijacked this thread and now we are talking about Ti/aluminum PPF's and ways to make the E-Man work with my nitrous set up so as to reach higher boost levels while keeping it simple. That's my fault. (Although at 104 pages I might say that we have said all that there is for the time being about the GReddy turbo which is why y'all followed me on the hijack.) Anyway.....
The Zex Smart System is activated via throttle body voltage from a "T" splice that connects the Zex's processor card to the factory throttle wire circuit. Since the Zex system is completely modular the only way to access the voltage which actually snap the solenoids open would be to crack open the module, which I am not prone to do. Therefore, the way to make the E-Manage and Zex work together would be use a DPST switch on the arming side of the nitrous system. One circuit would carry the 12v needed to "arm" the system and the other would carry the signal that tells the E-Man that the nitrous is actually spraying. In other words, the boost circuit would see the target voltage ONLY when the nitrous system is actually ready for use. To omit this switch in this particular use would cause the E-Man to think that everytime WOT was present the nitrous would also be present. How's that for a solution? Here's how the Zex/E-Man system would work;
We set up the optimum map for N/A applications. Whatever A/F ratios work best, ignition timing, etc. The car gets that additional 20-30 h.p. we all hear is missing from the factory. WOT situations would not encounter the ignition retard because the boost circuit is not in-line. Then, when we "arm" the nitrous with the dash switch two things happen. First, the 12v needed to power up the nitrous system is activated (pole 1) and the ignition retard map that kicks in under boost via a voltage trigger to the boost circuit is also made available(pole 2). When we go WOT with the nitrous system armed the E-Man properly assumes that the nitrous is spraying because the trigger voltage tells it that is the case.
This is exactly how I have wanted the E-Man to work with my nitrous system and I have been told for 12 months now that it wouldn't work that way. Jeff responds to my inquiry and in two or three posts we have it all figured out. How's that for teamwork.
I must now e-mail Ryan Scott and ask to be included in the F/I shootout he wants to do for an upcoming issue of RX Tuner.
Let's put our brains together and start kicking out some REAL h.p. figures.
CRH
The Zex Smart System is activated via throttle body voltage from a "T" splice that connects the Zex's processor card to the factory throttle wire circuit. Since the Zex system is completely modular the only way to access the voltage which actually snap the solenoids open would be to crack open the module, which I am not prone to do. Therefore, the way to make the E-Manage and Zex work together would be use a DPST switch on the arming side of the nitrous system. One circuit would carry the 12v needed to "arm" the system and the other would carry the signal that tells the E-Man that the nitrous is actually spraying. In other words, the boost circuit would see the target voltage ONLY when the nitrous system is actually ready for use. To omit this switch in this particular use would cause the E-Man to think that everytime WOT was present the nitrous would also be present. How's that for a solution? Here's how the Zex/E-Man system would work;
We set up the optimum map for N/A applications. Whatever A/F ratios work best, ignition timing, etc. The car gets that additional 20-30 h.p. we all hear is missing from the factory. WOT situations would not encounter the ignition retard because the boost circuit is not in-line. Then, when we "arm" the nitrous with the dash switch two things happen. First, the 12v needed to power up the nitrous system is activated (pole 1) and the ignition retard map that kicks in under boost via a voltage trigger to the boost circuit is also made available(pole 2). When we go WOT with the nitrous system armed the E-Man properly assumes that the nitrous is spraying because the trigger voltage tells it that is the case.
This is exactly how I have wanted the E-Man to work with my nitrous system and I have been told for 12 months now that it wouldn't work that way. Jeff responds to my inquiry and in two or three posts we have it all figured out. How's that for teamwork.
I must now e-mail Ryan Scott and ask to be included in the F/I shootout he wants to do for an upcoming issue of RX Tuner.
Let's put our brains together and start kicking out some REAL h.p. figures.
CRH
#1556
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I am enjoying the hell out of this thread!!!! Please keep this thread going, you may get an occasional jack, but for every off subject poster, there are ALOT of us reading, silently learning, and grinning ear to ear! It is people like mazda maniac/Charles Hill that make me a believer in innovation. Greed kills, and there are WAY too many "experts" waiting to take advantage of the less informed, so keep informing us noobs!!! PS I hope Mazda is watching, they would be proud.
#1560
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has anyone even gone to a 1/4 mile track with their greddy kit yet?
or nitrous kit for that matter since that is what teh thread is about at the moment:p
or nitrous kit for that matter since that is what teh thread is about at the moment:p
#1561
Ex- member.
Originally Posted by army_rx8
has anyone even gone to a 1/4 mile track with their greddy kit yet?
Posting more info/pics in this thread soon.
#1563
Son what is your Alibi?
iTrader: (1)
Yeah during our Photoshoot for RXTuner, I noticed some smoke coming out of the vent we couldn't identify where it was coming from so we opened up the engine bay and assumed it was some tape that was peeling off due to the heat and touching the exhaust manifold (things were getting very hot, the fork that holds up the hood burnt my fingers). John musta noticed it again when he took it out for a ride the next day and seen that it was the emanage box.
Jeff you have an AIM sn I need clarification on something.
AIM handle: o0oCrazyPolako0o
Jeff you have an AIM sn I need clarification on something.
AIM handle: o0oCrazyPolako0o
Last edited by PoLaK; 03-06-2005 at 11:32 AM.
#1564
Just an aside, I ordered my E-Man with the E-01(as opposed to the Profec) and the guys at MOHD said that they also heard the rumors about discontinuing the E-01. The called GReddy and were told that they are not discontinuing it but they are on backorder and should be here in the next few weeks. Those not interested in boost control can still save a few bucks and get the E-01.
CRH
CRH
#1565
Int-X 293WHP 242TQ :)
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Between traveling, work and the weather I haven't really taken my 8 out since the turbo was installed. Went out with my mechanic today and OMG
what power :D
My question is .... the boost gauge is showing peak boost at 11 psi -- isn't this a little high? I though it was pre-tuned at like 5 or 7 psi. My mechanic tested the gauge and it is accurate. The car ran GREAT but I am concerned about the boost level -- should I have it adjusted down to 7 or leave it as it came from GReddy?
P.S. After checking the hoses, etc. we took it out with a boosted S2000 he has that has dyno'd at 320 WHP and they were pretty even on a couple of informal stoplight runs.
![EEK!](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/eek.gif)
My question is .... the boost gauge is showing peak boost at 11 psi -- isn't this a little high? I though it was pre-tuned at like 5 or 7 psi. My mechanic tested the gauge and it is accurate. The car ran GREAT but I am concerned about the boost level -- should I have it adjusted down to 7 or leave it as it came from GReddy?
P.S. After checking the hoses, etc. we took it out with a boosted S2000 he has that has dyno'd at 320 WHP and they were pretty even on a couple of informal stoplight runs.
#1566
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Originally Posted by RXhusker
Between traveling, work and the weather I haven't really taken my 8 out since the turbo was installed. Went out with my mechanic today and OMG
what power :D
My question is .... the boost gauge is showing peak boost at 11 psi -- isn't this a little high? I though it was pre-tuned at like 5 or 7 psi. My mechanic tested the gauge and it is accurate. The car ran GREAT but I am concerned about the boost level -- should I have it adjusted down to 7 or leave it as it came from GReddy?
P.S. After checking the hoses, etc. we took it out with a boosted S2000 he has that has dyno'd at 320 WHP and they were pretty even on a couple of informal stoplight runs.
![EEK!](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/eek.gif)
My question is .... the boost gauge is showing peak boost at 11 psi -- isn't this a little high? I though it was pre-tuned at like 5 or 7 psi. My mechanic tested the gauge and it is accurate. The car ran GREAT but I am concerned about the boost level -- should I have it adjusted down to 7 or leave it as it came from GReddy?
P.S. After checking the hoses, etc. we took it out with a boosted S2000 he has that has dyno'd at 320 WHP and they were pretty even on a couple of informal stoplight runs.
Good : Lot's of extra power
Bad : without proper support (more fuel) you may blow your engine
When I put my kit on my gauge told me I was in line with what greddy was telling me I should be at (7 psi/5 psi at peak), but I was only getting 40 whp. There was something wrong, so my mechanic put his own boost gauge on & found I was only running 4 psi across the board (my gauge was not correct). On adjusting it to 6psi/4 psi at peak I was up to 52 whp increase. These kits need adjustment & tuning. I am bringing my car back in a week to get the boost turned up.
I'm not sure you can turn it down (mentally speaking), but I would get some bigger injectors & probably a boost controller, not to mention probably looking at the fuel maps from greddy.
#1568
anyone know that this is cant find any information on the greddy site, also any one have any information about the "NEW" e-manage v2 that is comming out
RPM SIGNAL ADAPTOR 3 RX8 ADPT. 15900909 $23.00
RPM SIGNAL ADAPTOR 3 RX8 ADPT. 15900909 $23.00
#1572
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Well, if you're running at 11psi, you would need to flow something like 75% more fuel than stock since you're adding 75% more air.
Is the stock fuel system able to do this?
Has your mechanic or you checked your AFR to make sure you're not running too lean? If not then you might be ok..
Is the stock fuel system able to do this?
Has your mechanic or you checked your AFR to make sure you're not running too lean? If not then you might be ok..
Originally Posted by RXhusker
Between traveling, work and the weather I haven't really taken my 8 out since the turbo was installed. Went out with my mechanic today and OMG
what power :D
My question is .... the boost gauge is showing peak boost at 11 psi -- isn't this a little high? I though it was pre-tuned at like 5 or 7 psi. My mechanic tested the gauge and it is accurate. The car ran GREAT but I am concerned about the boost level -- should I have it adjusted down to 7 or leave it as it came from GReddy?
P.S. After checking the hoses, etc. we took it out with a boosted S2000 he has that has dyno'd at 320 WHP and they were pretty even on a couple of informal stoplight runs.
![EEK!](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/eek.gif)
My question is .... the boost gauge is showing peak boost at 11 psi -- isn't this a little high? I though it was pre-tuned at like 5 or 7 psi. My mechanic tested the gauge and it is accurate. The car ran GREAT but I am concerned about the boost level -- should I have it adjusted down to 7 or leave it as it came from GReddy?
P.S. After checking the hoses, etc. we took it out with a boosted S2000 he has that has dyno'd at 320 WHP and they were pretty even on a couple of informal stoplight runs.
#1574
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What is the limitation, the small turbo?
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
9 PSI is all you can do at 9000 RPM.
However, at 5000 RPM you could do 11 PSI with the OEM injectors maxed.
Not a good idea.
However, at 5000 RPM you could do 11 PSI with the OEM injectors maxed.
Not a good idea.
#1575
Where the air is rare
I suspect it is limited by the amount of fuel the injectors can deliver in their duty cycle.
On my Vortech-enhanced Mustang, the system managed the additional flow requirements by increasing the fuel pressure (by a ratio of 8lbs fuel to 1lb of boost). This worked well, up to a point, where the injectors would be unable to flow the additional fuel because of design limitations. Time to move up to larger injectors (which are rated in lbs/hr, not CC's).
On my Vortech-enhanced Mustang, the system managed the additional flow requirements by increasing the fuel pressure (by a ratio of 8lbs fuel to 1lb of boost). This worked well, up to a point, where the injectors would be unable to flow the additional fuel because of design limitations. Time to move up to larger injectors (which are rated in lbs/hr, not CC's).