Greddy Turbo Installed - Details Inside!!!!
#1601
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Yes JoeMamma, ttt's water temp gauge was reading C then normal but It was a connection issue at the sending unit. The running condition did not change with the gauge fluctuation. If the run condition changes that sounds more like water thermosensor problem...Scott
#1603
Rangers Lead The Way!
Thread Starter
Guys, I've recommended before.. and I'll recommend it again. The Type-S is the way to go. It's rated for low boost systems which is what the Greddy Kit is. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Type-RS is for high boost applications.
#1604
Where the air is rare
Originally Posted by MazsportScott
Yes JoeMamma, ttt's water temp gauge was reading C then normal but It was a connection issue at the sending unit. The running condition did not change with the gauge fluctuation. If the run condition changes that sounds more like water thermosensor problem...Scott
#1605
Originally Posted by philodox
Guys, I've recommended before.. and I'll recommend it again. The Type-S is the way to go. It's rated for low boost systems which is what the Greddy Kit is. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Type-RS is for high boost applications.
#1606
Rangers Lead The Way!
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Originally Posted by Horse
Well, the guys at Vivid Racing are running a type RS and they love it. I belive it goes type S low boost, type RS intermediate and type R for high boost. But all should be able to be tuned for any setups. The RS should just be louder and capable of standing more boost.
And you're forgetting more expensive :p :p :p :p
#1608
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Originally Posted by Horse
Yes it is more expensive. But not by much I got mine brand new in the box for $150 dollars on ebay which the Type S was selling for $139.
Any chance someone with a Type RS could post a sound clip? I'd like to hear the difference between my type-s and the type-rs.
#1610
Int-X 293WHP 242TQ :)
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I was reading in the CZ thread and noticed this post from Maurice -- Does this mean anything for us with turbos? Will the ECU "learn" and fight against our tuning maps?
Originally Posted by canzoomer
Some of you who are tuning have posted that the car ECU "learns" a long term fuel trim and adjusts against the tuning.
You are right!
BUT:
The car checks AFR when it is in closed loop mode.
That is below 70% throttle, and below the closed loop/open loop transition rpm.
So, what IS the transition rpm?
By measurement:
1st gear: 6,200rpm
2nd gear: 5,500rpm
3rd gear: 4,800rpm
4th gear and up - same as 3rd.
So, some lessons to derive from this:
1) Tune above transition point ( 6,200) and do NOT touch the fuel/air below 6,200 unless it is only 5% or less.
2) If you want to tune down to 5,500 avoid full throttle in 1st gear below 6,200
3) If you want it tune more, and want to get around the "learned"long term trims, simply disconnect the battery ground if the ECU "learns" a fule trim.
This returns the car to default fuel/air settings.
Of course it will "learn" again, so this is not a long term solutiion.
I installed a replacement battery groundpost that has a 1/4 turn **** to disconnect. This allows for quick and easy resets.
Also, regarding weather and temperatures:
If you tune in cold weather the air is denser.
When you run at a higher temp the air is less dense.
That means the mixture will be a bit different.
Humidity will also affect it.
The car has a barometric perssure sensor as well, so it does compensate for altitude and air pressure change due to weather, however it does not have a means for detecting humidity.
My advice, if doing fairly aggressive maps is to do a set for both cold/dry conditions and for warm/wet ones.
Save them and use as needed.
You are right!
BUT:
The car checks AFR when it is in closed loop mode.
That is below 70% throttle, and below the closed loop/open loop transition rpm.
So, what IS the transition rpm?
By measurement:
1st gear: 6,200rpm
2nd gear: 5,500rpm
3rd gear: 4,800rpm
4th gear and up - same as 3rd.
So, some lessons to derive from this:
1) Tune above transition point ( 6,200) and do NOT touch the fuel/air below 6,200 unless it is only 5% or less.
2) If you want to tune down to 5,500 avoid full throttle in 1st gear below 6,200
3) If you want it tune more, and want to get around the "learned"long term trims, simply disconnect the battery ground if the ECU "learns" a fule trim.
This returns the car to default fuel/air settings.
Of course it will "learn" again, so this is not a long term solutiion.
I installed a replacement battery groundpost that has a 1/4 turn **** to disconnect. This allows for quick and easy resets.
Also, regarding weather and temperatures:
If you tune in cold weather the air is denser.
When you run at a higher temp the air is less dense.
That means the mixture will be a bit different.
Humidity will also affect it.
The car has a barometric perssure sensor as well, so it does compensate for altitude and air pressure change due to weather, however it does not have a means for detecting humidity.
My advice, if doing fairly aggressive maps is to do a set for both cold/dry conditions and for warm/wet ones.
Save them and use as needed.
#1611
Registered
You know this was very early in the ecu development days for this car. Alot has been learned since then. Personally I find it to be a complete waste of time and money to only tune a car above 6200 rpm. This car actually needs the most help below this point. You can clearly see it on my datalogs of the stock maps. The stock ecu can be tuned like every other one. It just needs to be dealt with in a little different fashion. Personally I don't think the Canzoomer/emanage is the right tool for the job but that's just my opinion.
#1612
Int-X 293WHP 242TQ :)
Join Date: Oct 2002
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Originally Posted by rotarygod
You know this was very early in the ecu development days for this car. Alot has been learned since then.
#1613
assuming that the ECU adjusts below this RPM, or learns, wouldn't Greddy also know this fact? And if so then just see what there maps are like and what it looks like above and below this transition point.
#1614
Registered
Greddy wires up the emanage differently from how Maurice does it as far as I know. I thought Jeff (Mazdamaniac) said something about this. If this is true, it could explain alot about how the ecu fights back or not.
#1615
Where the air is rare
I ran into the trick GReddy is using to kick the ECU into open-loop on my kit after I loaded the unlocked eManage map that was posted on this thread.
My car would have a dead dashboard temp gauge, fast idle (~2k RPM) for 5-10 seconds, then quickly settle into a proper idle after the gauge came back to life. This was caused by one of the "dongles" on the GReddy wiring loom that controls the ECT (engine temperature sensor), switching it "out" when it needs to richen the mixture and put the ECU in open loop and keep it from pulling out the additional fuel. It's a simple and effective way to get the ECU out of the way, but has the odd visual side effect of dipping the temperature gauge when in boost at low-to-mid RPM ranges.
My car would have a dead dashboard temp gauge, fast idle (~2k RPM) for 5-10 seconds, then quickly settle into a proper idle after the gauge came back to life. This was caused by one of the "dongles" on the GReddy wiring loom that controls the ECT (engine temperature sensor), switching it "out" when it needs to richen the mixture and put the ECU in open loop and keep it from pulling out the additional fuel. It's a simple and effective way to get the ECU out of the way, but has the odd visual side effect of dipping the temperature gauge when in boost at low-to-mid RPM ranges.
#1616
Banned
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by JoeMamma
I ran into the trick GReddy is using to kick the ECU into open-loop on my kit after I loaded the unlocked eManage map that was posted on this thread.
My car would have a dead dashboard temp gauge, fast idle (~2k RPM) for 5-10 seconds, then quickly settle into a proper idle after the gauge came back to life. This was caused by one of the "dongles" on the GReddy wiring loom that controls the ECT (engine temperature sensor), switching it "out" when it needs to richen the mixture and put the ECU in open loop and keep it from pulling out the additional fuel. It's a simple and effective way to get the ECU out of the way, but has the odd visual side effect of dipping the temperature gauge when in boost at low-to-mid RPM ranges.
My car would have a dead dashboard temp gauge, fast idle (~2k RPM) for 5-10 seconds, then quickly settle into a proper idle after the gauge came back to life. This was caused by one of the "dongles" on the GReddy wiring loom that controls the ECT (engine temperature sensor), switching it "out" when it needs to richen the mixture and put the ECU in open loop and keep it from pulling out the additional fuel. It's a simple and effective way to get the ECU out of the way, but has the odd visual side effect of dipping the temperature gauge when in boost at low-to-mid RPM ranges.
I've been suggesting that people that have issues like these, to disconnect the dongle from the harness.
#1622
I think (may be wrong here), that negative LFT's indicate the PCM is subtracting fuel (rich), while the positive numbers mean its adding fuel (lean).
On the 6's, the injen intake threw off the maf sensor so much, everyone pegged out the LFT's at 20.3%. =/
On the 6's, the injen intake threw off the maf sensor so much, everyone pegged out the LFT's at 20.3%. =/
#1624
Rangers Lead The Way!
Thread Starter
Question guys, my EGT gauge is reading about 710deg C for my exhaust gas temp. It gets that hot when I am driving hard. Is such a high temp something I should worry about? Normal drving n the street I am around 550deg C.
#1625
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philodox i'm not far from new jersey hopefully sometime i could go down and check out your turbo 8 before i think about going turbo with mine.