MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

All of them get unplugged and two of those on the harness get plugged into each other.
There are probably red, black and two green I'd guess? (I don't have one to look at so I don't know.)

youngpit

ok thanks i think i will just have to find some one in NJ that has a clue as to what they are doing with the 8 / greddy and let them do it b 4 i f something up

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

If you just snap a good digital pic of the box, I can point out the wires for you.

youngpit

ok will do in the am THANKS. I REALY SHOULD JUST PAY YOU to get this car running right

devious12

Ok I really didn't feel like digging through 136 pages so can you tell me in the video is that the sound of a blowoff valve? If so how is it affecting the way the car is running, I thought that a blowoff valve was no good for this kit? If you don't have one on then nevermind, but where is that sound coming from, oh and congrats on the kit sounds nice, good luck with it.

Spyder_doo

I'm in the finishing process of installing one of these kits myself and was wondering if anything was recommended that I do. I have everything hooked up and double checked all the hoses, bolts, wires, and mounts. The boost gauge is hooked up and installed. The emanage is connected and ready to go. The next thing I have to do is add oil and follow the steps to feed oil to the turbo. Anything that anyone can think of that I should do before, while, or after I finish this install would be great to know.

Thanks,
Jamie

Speedrx8er

spyder_doo triple check the oil line to avoid leaking / flooding.

rkostolni

Tighten those oil lines down!!!!!! and wrap them 3-4x around with teflon.

GrRx8MaZdA

I just got my greddy turbo and i can't find the instructions on how to install it...PLease please if someone can help me fast,tell me..I need the instructions fast...I already told my dealer but we have 9hours difference in time..Different time zone..and i can't wait...

BigOLundh

iTrader: (1)

I would like to first start off by saying a special thanks to Philidox for all his instructions in this thread. After waiting 3 months before we had a enough free time to install the boost, it is now finally done... well, kind of.
We just spent the last two days installing the turbo, and would not have been able to do it without this thread. As most of you know by now, the greddy instructions are HORRIBLE, but luckily with the help of the board we were able to finish it. VERY BIG THANKS!!!

Ok, so here is where i'm at now.

-No CEL
-I have not removed the dongle, and have not driven it over 4k rpm yet.
-I also have not had a chance to install any of the gauges yet.
-I have not installed a BOV yet either.

Questions..
- Where did all of you mount the E-Manage? Right now it is sitting underneath my steering column. We got it in there, without having to drill any wires.
- The TCS light is on, but not the DSC. This is odd, because i never knew you could disable TCS and not DSC. Anyways, the light is on at start-up and stays on. Anyone else get this as well?
- It stalled twice; each time it was as i was coming to a stop. Anybody else have this problem?

-Harry

BigOLundh

iTrader: (1)

Here you go.
http://www.turborx8.net/video/rx8%20...nstruction.pdf

NOTE: read the instuctions on here by philodox before starting. It will save you a few hours.

adrian-1

The TCS light does this every time you disconnect/ connect the battery. Start the car and turn the wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right. It should go away. It's in the owners manual.

Spyder_doo

I recommend taking the car for a nice little ride and gradually get on the pedal more. My car ran fine up to 4500 and then started acting funny. I ended up removing the dongle to fix the ruff idle and it started driving alittle better but I still had problems with jumpyness. Now I'm not really sure what's wrong with it. I think one of my ignition coils was causing all the problems but I'll let everyone know for sure when I get a new one in. If anyone has any other ideas as to why these problems are occuring please let me know.

Thanks,
Jamie

BigOLundh

iTrader: (1)

Oh thanks, I'll try this in a few hours when i drive back to the shop to work on the boost gauge. Oh also, your thred on how installing the turbo also saved us a lot of trouble... thank you very much for posting that.

SpyderDoo,
Until i get the gauge put in, i'm going to refrain from driving the car hard. Hopefully all is well and i won't have to remove the dongle, but we'll see. Thanks for the info.

BigOLundh

iTrader: (1)

OK, so the DSC/TCS lights are now off, but i am still having the stalling issue when the car is coming to a stop. At idle the car tends to drop too low, then the batterly light comes on. If i don't give it gas it stalls. Anyone else have this problem?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Did you do an ECU reset?

BigOLundh

iTrader: (1)

yes it was reseted when we installed the turbo.

Today i got all the gauges in along with the PTP gauge pod, and the boost gauge is connected. BTW, Defi BF gauges are freakin HOT!!! We'll connect in the Oil Pressure and Water Pressure gauges later.

The shifting at 6-8k rpm is very smooth. No bogging issues here.

The idling problems are still there, but it didn't stall when driving it this evening. I need to get this on a dyno and tuned. That now looks to be 3 weeks away. Keep the suggestions for the idling problems coming. THANKS!!!

adrian-1

Almost everyone that had a problem with shutting off when coming to a stop was due to the BOV not being set tight enough, but you said you haven't installed your BOV yet, so I don't know.

Definitely get it dyno tuned!
I've added a hiflow cat and found out I was running lean. So lean it was knocking in high rpm's, but I couldn't hear it on the road since my exhaust and turbo were drowning it out.
I've reloaded my dongle as per my tuner's suggestion and they've also ordered the 3rd dongle (cel fix) to come in from Greddy. I'm going to get an O2 bung installed precat for more accurate AFR's and then go back to tune it some more.

Few clips of my 8 on the dyno here.

BigOLundh

iTrader: (1)

Adrian-1...
yes, the dyno is a must. I am ordering the BOV, and it will probably be here by the time i get a chance to get on a dyno. I can't wait to open it up and tune it. After that, i'll finally be able to open this up. Right now i am refraining from getting too deep into the boost range of the RPM band.

I'll let you know how it all goes.

-HS

Speedrx8er

Adrian what was the reason for reloading your dongle? Does your car still run the same with dongle reloaded?

adrian-1

The car suprisingly runs good with the dongle back in (no hesistation and smooth shifting).
I've also switched to Greddy's latest map. The tuning shop contacted Greddy and got a copy. I'm not sure how different it is, since the shop changed it by adding fuel in some areas while dyno tuning.
I reloaded it becaused the tuning shop did a greddy turbo install and dyno tune on somebody else's 8 and didn't have a problem with hesistation.

One big difference I've noticed is that the car is more driveable shortly after startup now. Before I had to wait for it to warm up before I could even go above 50mph. Couldn't go above 3k or the car would start bucking. Once the car was up to temp (5min) it drove fine.
I'm not talking about redlining it 2 mins after startup, but just getting up to the speedlimit.
I don't know if that's due to the dongle being back in or the new map.

Greddyturbo1

Hey guys keep the Dongle on , its seems to run alittle lean without it... also if you don't have the third black box, install that it also helps from getting the cel when cooler out, and one more thing if you don't have a check vavle between the jet air metering line I would install one , it makes the car smoother between shifts, All these things have made mine run much better...

Of course I tweaked alittle on the maps , But I'am running 8psi and not running lean...

rkostolni

I installed a check valve and didn't notice and difference either way. I've since removed it. I am questioning the valve I used though thinking maybe it was not the proper valve for the job.

Greddyturbo1

I believe that as long as the check valve was the same size openning( or larger) as the hose used for the the jet air metering which I believe is 5mm openning, you should be alright.. Unless it was smaller or just very cheap were it couldn't hold the pressure.. I picked mine up at a truck parts store that was for a brake booster check valve, I know that will hold any pressure... Greddy said they used one from the 94-96 240z brake booster check valve....

GrRx8MaZdA

Anyone have english instructions on how to install the greddy oil pan???I ve got the japan installation instruction and can't read a word....please help me...
Saturday i am going for the installation