finally finished my turbo install last night and was able to drive the car tonight at first car felt pretty smooth but as soon as i would come to a stop car will stall so as i come to a stop i have to hold the gas (above 3k rpm) while braking to keep the car running, i have tried all the maps that worked before (this is the second time running the turbo kit) i even tried a short wot in 1st and 2nd gear and afr was in the lower 11's....hope you guys can help with some info

here my setup:
greddy turbo kit
atp silicone couplers and t-bolt clamps
greddy type rs bov
mazsport cai
cobb ap
mazsport DR mid pipe
hks hi power exhaust

 

Is your BOV recirc-ed or not?

 

not recirc-ed, what gets me is it was not before

 

mine runs fine not recirculated

how's your vacuum?

 

i dont have the boost gauge hooked up rite now so im not sure where its at

 

No recirc - how are your AFR's when you let off the throttle?

I got mad backfires with the RS.

 

i get mad backfires with the hks
i like it

 

I'd get a vac reading...maybe you got a leak

 

If you have no vac readings; give us your AFR and MAF readings at idle.

 

if he can keep it at idle that is...

 

ill give some more detailed info on that tomorrow when i run the car again when it was able to idle on its own while starting at cold start it was sitting around mid 14 afr

 

First, eliminate the AccessPORT as a variable. Uninstall it and see if it idles.

 

i should be fine flashing back to my factory flash as long as i dont go into boost correct? if so ill try that tomorrow morning..thanks again for the info and help guys

 

Mine did this seemingly randomly a few times. I just reset the ECU with the AP and then reflashed the same correct map, turned the key off for at least 5 minuets and then restarted and it works.

My car wouldn't idle and I had to hold the gas to keep it running, but once I was driving it was fine. Try re flashing and letting it sit for a few minuets. Are you restarting the car almost immediately after re flashing?

Also adjust your BOV so it's pretty tight.

If none of that works, do like Jeff said and uninstall the AP and see if it will idle. Just don't go into boost!

 

good luck greg, your success might determine if i decide to go turbo or not! =P

 

I do start the car immediately after i cylcle the car on/off shortly after the flash, ill try both of your recommendations, when i flashed from the 0 to 5b calibration it ran worse immediately so i flashed back to the 0 calibration but it made no difference ill try waiting before starting the car

 

so today i tightend the greddy type rs bov almost all the way, hooked up my boost gauge (inHG sits at 17/18 at idle) i uninstalled the the cobb ap let the car sit for about 5/10 minutes started the car and at first the car was idling perfect but as soon as i rev the car past 4k and above i get a long whoosh from the bov and car actually stays on but almost turns off where the coolant light flikers as the car struggles to stay on, i monitored my maf and it would vary between 5 up to 8 while idling perfect once i rev the engine to about 4k it will bounce around to its highest at 28, the short fuel trim sits at about -12 at idle long term fuel trim sits about 0 at idle afr sits at 14.4 at idle as i rev the car to about 4k rpm it will jump to 28 and dramatically drop to about 12.2 and work its way back to 14.4 as the idle improves. holding about 3-4k rpm the boost vacuum on my gauge will drop to 10 and slowly move to 20 and stat at the number untill i let off the gas

 

also: i sprayed parts wash all throughout my couplers and vacuum hoses, intake manifold, no change in idle whats so ever

 

coils/plugs? man I don't know what to tell you. hopefully someone with more knowledge can figure this out

 

I vote BOV; I had the RS VTA - and it would go stupid rich after the MAF lost all that air.

It is like a huge unmetered vacuum leak.

 

turborx8 uses the type RS I think, but he may have it recirculated too.

I think as far as BOVs though the synapse sychronic or HKS SSQV is your best bet for use with the ap

 

Anything re-circulated would work IMO. But the RS does stay open an awful long time under heavy vacuum.

 

makes plenty of sense kane the part that keeps me un-easy about that is it worked fine before unrecirculated...i think im going to order this tonight and see if it makes a difference

 

^but you were also using a different engine management that didn't care about your MAF

 

i remember gregs car at the so cal dyno day. he ran the cobb ap back then when jeff tuned it and it was working good. probably the only turbo'd 8 that day that was running fine.