I'm going to keep it simple. I have 54,000k on my car. It's in good runing condition. Compression feels good. It gets drivin EVERYDAY! Its a daily. at least 12k to 16k a year. Do you guys believe its worth to go TURBO?

 

compression "feels" good? I hope when you say "feel" you mean it feels good when looking at a compression gauge displaying decent numbers.

 

Honestly, odds are about even you'll blow your motor with 10 or 100,000 miles.... so I would say go for it.

It is all in the tune.

 

It's always worth it to go turbo. I would recommend getting your compression actually checked beforehand.
Many people DD their turbo'd 8's. There will be more things to keep an eye on however. It does complicate things a bit....but hey, might as well enjoy the car.

 

If you go turbo (or hymee supercharge ) have a couple grand on the side incase of a rebuilt, especially since its a daily.

 

or keep a spare on hand ^_^, i plan on daily driving mine when complete, i second checking compression before though, nothing like voiding your warrenty with a engine that needs to be replaced first

 

Ok so I will definitly get the compression checked. Now the engine is still under warenty till 80'000k right. So a compression test should be free with a lack of power complaint?

 

Yes, provided it's done in a conservative manner and is setup well. No eBay SS-Autochrome garbage and no hackjobs to try and make it turbo quickly.

B

 

there's SO much more to this question.
- are you good at working on cars?
- What is your budget for the entire project? Whatever it is, add $1500 to it because things will come up
- Do you have another car to drive while you install the turbo?
- Are you good at diagnosing problems?
- What do you want out of your turbo? 400whp, 300whp?

I could keep going but this'll give you something to think about...

 

i believe its 100k 8 years. i know they charge 200 for the test at the dealer but i would also like to know if i have a complaint of lack of power if they will check it for free. that would be awesome. i have 77k miles

 

If you need to second guess yourself, it's probably not the best idea..

But if you want to, may as well. You only live once, do what you want

 

dude, we will talk, come once awhile in the meeting , and we can make a list what you need to buy and how to support it. in otherwords, you have to have extra money, just prepare it. as you know, it's now only turbo, but if you wanna play save, do it carefully and do it slowly, everything will be fine. if you believe that your motor is healthy, then turbo it. pm me or call me, we can talk man.
steven

 

there's SO much more to this question.
- are you good at working on cars?

-------Yes I am.

- What is your budget for the entire project? Whatever it is, add $1500 to it because things will come up.

-------what ever it cost to do it right. I even want to go as far as HDAI.

- Do you have another car to drive while you install the turbo?

--------Yes I do.

- Are you good at diagnosing problems?

-------Yes.

- What do you want out of your turbo? 400whp, 300whp?

-------350whp.

I could keep going but this'll give you something to think about...

 

Steven, I sent you a email on the subject. Check it out.

 

I would never recommend putting a turbo on any nonturbo car (rotary or otherwise) if you depend on it exclusively. If you are still making payments on this and it's your only car, stop right now.

 

Huh?

 

Whats up! Thanks for your help getting me on the forum.

I have a 323 GTX and I put a NA 1.8 BP engine out of a 92 protege LX, I didn't have problems with that engine till I ran 18 psi on pump gas. Not too bad for a untouched non turbo converted turbo engine with 130K miles :D.

My thoughts on a rotary compression. If the compression is low (70 psi on each face), its okay to run it turbocharged. My FD had terrible compression right on the 70 mark on the front and 75-80 on the back lol. It made 435 RWHP. It had 100K mile rotor housings and the irons had 150 K on them when I was done. You just have to run more boost to compensate for the low compression. If you have a higher milage engine the apex seals get more brittle after around 60K miles. If you keep the boost down below 10-12, you should be okay if it is tuned properly.

Bryan@BNR

 

dude, i didn't get anything from you....call me
steven

 

If you turbo this car, plan on needing a new engine within 50k miles.

You might be in luck with the Mazda Maniac turbo upgrade & find it more reliable, but to be on the safe side, plan on blowing engines.

 

If you guys blow your engines so much, just put a REW in. Screw all this cant boost it stuff...

 

^^^
Nothing wrong with using the Renesis for boost.

 

i think a lot of people dont understand that this motor isnt "special" if you cant make this one last XXXXX miles, odds are you couldnt make an REW last it either. its a combination of people not knowing what they are doing well enough, and up until a while back, tuning limitations and a lot of junk being used

 

he knows just tired of hearing ppl complain about how this motor is so special and cant be boosted like the older rotaries....

 

You guys read too much. I boost and my car is strong. I think some people make this engine out to be more sensitive to boost than it really is. As Kane said, tuning is everything. With MM and the Cobb AP there is no reason not to go FI. Happy driving.

 

OK well DUDES I'm meeting with STEVEn tonight to get the plan going for the turbo upgrade. I should be making my first purchase next week on the INT-X...