Injector size conflicting information
#1
Injector size conflicting information
I've just finished getting my Haltech all wired in. I'm in a situation where I just need to get the car running and moving not yet looking to make mad power or anything. Wish I could afford nice injectors but for the short term I am just using the factory injectors I have available. Thing is I only have 4 injector driver on the haltech so I am just running primaries and secondaries no P2s. The haltech works on volumetric efficiency so I just need accurate values for the injector flow rates and I should be ok. Here's what Ive found thus far
But then I see this
According to the logic in the second thread I should be able to get away with yellow primaries (475cc)and de-capped yellows (850cc) in the secondaries to get stock fueling (2650cc) level which should be fine for my setup anyway I'm only looking to hit 250ish whp anyway.
So now the question is which values are actually accurate for me to enter as my injector size in the Haltech?
Using that MazdaManiac fellows sizing I feel like I would be way short fuel. 380cc+(676cc approx) x 2 = 2112cc
I believe the scaled output figure used in the ECU is actually a fairer indication of injector output than what you get from a flow test which is done at a lower pressure than our system pressure, so that's what I'm using here.
Injectors listed In this order: P1/secondary/P2
Stock injectors
red/yellow/yellow .................................369/475/475 x2 = 2638cc = up to 270whp
good for a stock greddy turbo kit
Stage 1:
yellow/yellow/blue .................................475/475/626 x2 = 3152cc = up to 330whp
Upgraded greddy turbo
Yellow/blue/blue.......................................475/626/626 x2 = 3454cc = up to 360whp
Stage 2:
yellow/blue/uncapped yellow...................475/626/850 x2 = 3902cc = up to 400whp
Most kit turbos
Yellow/uncapped yellow/uncapped yellow...475/850/850 x2=4350cc = up to 450whp
Stage 3:
Blue/uncapped yellow/uncapped yellow ......626/850/850 x2 = 4652 = up to 480whp
Custom turbo systems
For Uncapped yellow injectors add 10% to all the numbers in the blue injector latency map for best results .
Injectors listed In this order: P1/secondary/P2
Stock injectors
red/yellow/yellow .................................369/475/475 x2 = 2638cc = up to 270whp
good for a stock greddy turbo kit
Stage 1:
yellow/yellow/blue .................................475/475/626 x2 = 3152cc = up to 330whp
Upgraded greddy turbo
Yellow/blue/blue.......................................475/626/626 x2 = 3454cc = up to 360whp
Stage 2:
yellow/blue/uncapped yellow...................475/626/850 x2 = 3902cc = up to 400whp
Most kit turbos
Yellow/uncapped yellow/uncapped yellow...475/850/850 x2=4350cc = up to 450whp
Stage 3:
Blue/uncapped yellow/uncapped yellow ......626/850/850 x2 = 4652 = up to 480whp
Custom turbo systems
For Uncapped yellow injectors add 10% to all the numbers in the blue injector latency map for best results .
So now the question is which values are actually accurate for me to enter as my injector size in the Haltech?
Using that MazdaManiac fellows sizing I feel like I would be way short fuel. 380cc+(676cc approx) x 2 = 2112cc
#2
The numbers MM quotes are the advertised flow rates which are worked out at the standard 43 psi. However our system runs at 58-60psi so those numbers are not relevant.
Being the second guy you quoted I'm gunna suggest you believe my comments
You also need to get the latency set correctly to get that flow .
Pity you opted for the Haltec ...the stock ecu does a much better job when tuned properly.
Being the second guy you quoted I'm gunna suggest you believe my comments
You also need to get the latency set correctly to get that flow .
Pity you opted for the Haltec ...the stock ecu does a much better job when tuned properly.
#3
Thanks Brettus I was really hoping you'd see this. This project has taken a couple left turns ecu wise. I think I damaged the factory pcm welding on the car, it didn't want to fire the spark plugs anymore. Battery was removed so not sure what happened there.
Went with the haltech for the DBW capability and it opens the door to an easy REW or RE swap down the road. I also just wanted to learn how to actually wire in a standalone. I am annoyed that currently I haven't figured out the CAN bus setting to get the tacho working.
The latency charts in the thread I quoted you from, close enough for what I'm doing?
Went with the haltech for the DBW capability and it opens the door to an easy REW or RE swap down the road. I also just wanted to learn how to actually wire in a standalone. I am annoyed that currently I haven't figured out the CAN bus setting to get the tacho working.
The latency charts in the thread I quoted you from, close enough for what I'm doing?
#4
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