Jimmy’s First Turbo Build (Greddy)
#251
SPOOLN8
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 2,251
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Other than that situation I've had no reason to change my SSQV to recirc either.
Last edited by RotaryMachineRx; 11-06-2018 at 05:29 PM.
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JimmyBlack (11-06-2018)
#252
Hybrid Greddy Boosted
Thread Starter
Road tuning of the car is going well. The wastegate has a 6psi spring installed, and I've configured the boost controller to get 11psi using Duty Cycle. I'm hitting about 7psi around 3800rpm in 3rd gear, and hitting 11psi around 4100rpm. Boost tapers down from 11psi to 6-7psi as rpm increase, due to the exhaust pressure pushing the wastegate open. I should be able to address the boost drop off by adjusting boost controller Sensitivity setting.
Will post a virtual dyno once I get boost level consistent after a few more road tuning sessions.
Car issue I'm aware of is that there's a slow oil drip. When I'm sorting that out I'll check everything over and see how it's holding up to the heat.
Will post a virtual dyno once I get boost level consistent after a few more road tuning sessions.
Car issue I'm aware of is that there's a slow oil drip. When I'm sorting that out I'll check everything over and see how it's holding up to the heat.
#254
Hybrid Greddy Boosted
Thread Starter
When I was running wastegate pressure with no controller settings, the boost was very consistent. You're right about the controller sensitivity not being able to tune out the boost drop - when I set it to max, peak boost of 12.5psi dropped to 9psi by redline. The tune is good now, so I'll see about replacing the spring with a stronger one. Lol there goes the boost controller's Wife setting.
#255
Hybrid Greddy Boosted
Thread Starter
My wastegate came with 2x 7psi springs. Initially I had one of them installed, showing a consistent 6psi of boost at upper intake manifold (with no boost controller settings). I've now installed the 2nd spring alongside the first spring, so upper intake manifold boost pressure is now reading 12psi. I haven't revved it out yet to see whether it holds constant pressure to redline.
I have a slow oil leak dripping off the oil pan to the floor. I got under the car and tightened a few worm clamps on the oil drain piping, but the leak is still there, so suspect it's from a break in the sealant between pan and block, caused when I trimmed the edge of the oil pan to fit the new motor mount. I'll need to drain the oil and re-seal the pan to stop the leak.
While re-inspecting the turbo install under the car I noticed some black soot around the outside of the turbo beanie that looks to be coming from the jet air fuel mix nipple. The nipple is a sleeve that is pressed into the block. During install, I bent the nipple upwards slightly to clear the oil feed line into the turbo core. This left the jet air nipple sleeve slightly loose, though the attached hose keeps it secured in place. The soot around the turbo beanie indicates there's some sooty gas coming out of the block around the edges of the jet air sleeve, probably being released after each combustion cycle as the intake port opens. This would also indicate there may be a small boost leak in the same area, which will require fixing. I can't find much info on the function of the jet air fuel mixing line, other than a rough description that it helps atomize fuel at low engine speeds, presumably for emissions or fuel efficiency.
I'm considering pulling the jet air sleeve out of the block permanently, and blocking the hole with an epoxy, e.g. JB Weld. Before proceeding with this, I'll run the car for a few days with the jet air hose blocked to see if I notice any side effects.
I have a slow oil leak dripping off the oil pan to the floor. I got under the car and tightened a few worm clamps on the oil drain piping, but the leak is still there, so suspect it's from a break in the sealant between pan and block, caused when I trimmed the edge of the oil pan to fit the new motor mount. I'll need to drain the oil and re-seal the pan to stop the leak.
While re-inspecting the turbo install under the car I noticed some black soot around the outside of the turbo beanie that looks to be coming from the jet air fuel mix nipple. The nipple is a sleeve that is pressed into the block. During install, I bent the nipple upwards slightly to clear the oil feed line into the turbo core. This left the jet air nipple sleeve slightly loose, though the attached hose keeps it secured in place. The soot around the turbo beanie indicates there's some sooty gas coming out of the block around the edges of the jet air sleeve, probably being released after each combustion cycle as the intake port opens. This would also indicate there may be a small boost leak in the same area, which will require fixing. I can't find much info on the function of the jet air fuel mixing line, other than a rough description that it helps atomize fuel at low engine speeds, presumably for emissions or fuel efficiency.
I'm considering pulling the jet air sleeve out of the block permanently, and blocking the hole with an epoxy, e.g. JB Weld. Before proceeding with this, I'll run the car for a few days with the jet air hose blocked to see if I notice any side effects.
Last edited by JimmyBlack; 11-19-2018 at 03:57 PM.
#256
Hybrid Greddy Boosted
Thread Starter
Just found this PDF detailing benefits of jet air fuel mixing.
http://www.rotarydevelopment.net/Rot...790_Rotary.pdf
Summary:
- Decreases hydro carbon emissions at idle by 30%.
- Decreases fuel consumption at idle by 7%.
Interesting read - contains some interesting comparisons with other rotary engine models.
http://www.rotarydevelopment.net/Rot...790_Rotary.pdf
Summary:
- Decreases hydro carbon emissions at idle by 30%.
- Decreases fuel consumption at idle by 7%.
Interesting read - contains some interesting comparisons with other rotary engine models.
#257
I have found I really dislike boost controllers, they are a pain to setup, and if they fail then you will boost to the moon. I have found my syncronic wastegate with the adjustable port configs to change boost much more simple and reliable. the boost never drops off and it kicks right in. no worries about failures.
but thats just my two sense
good progress!!
but thats just my two sense
good progress!!
The following users liked this post:
JimmyBlack (11-20-2018)
#259
Hybrid Greddy Boosted
Thread Starter
14psi wastegate springs fitted, now showing 11-12psi in the upper intake manifold.
Two slow oil leaks have now been sorted. I removed the oil pan and replaced/improved the turbo oil train line, including new hose push lock fitting and re-welding the bung on the pan. Gave the pan a fresh coat of flat black paint and re-installed it. Looks a lot nicer now.
Fitted new spark plugs: NGK R7420-9 Leading. NGK R7420-105 Trailing with added washer from previous trailing plug. Old plugs were OEM. They were very dirty having done about 20,000 km. I don't notice any performance difference but it's good to know I should have reliable spark for the next little while.
High temp RTV silicone sealant added around the jet air nipple on the block. It's running a little leaner now, so I think there was a small boost leak there previously. Tune not looking too bad, but needs a bit of a tweak. My open fuel tables are all at 11.3 AFR, so once tuning is done I'll set it back to a smoother table with higher AFRs at lower loads, which will make driving a little nicer.
Two slow oil leaks have now been sorted. I removed the oil pan and replaced/improved the turbo oil train line, including new hose push lock fitting and re-welding the bung on the pan. Gave the pan a fresh coat of flat black paint and re-installed it. Looks a lot nicer now.
Fitted new spark plugs: NGK R7420-9 Leading. NGK R7420-105 Trailing with added washer from previous trailing plug. Old plugs were OEM. They were very dirty having done about 20,000 km. I don't notice any performance difference but it's good to know I should have reliable spark for the next little while.
High temp RTV silicone sealant added around the jet air nipple on the block. It's running a little leaner now, so I think there was a small boost leak there previously. Tune not looking too bad, but needs a bit of a tweak. My open fuel tables are all at 11.3 AFR, so once tuning is done I'll set it back to a smoother table with higher AFRs at lower loads, which will make driving a little nicer.
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Brettus (12-03-2018)
#260
...
High temp RTV silicone sealant added around the jet air nipple on the block. It's running a little leaner now, so I think there was a small boost leak there previously. Tune not looking too bad, but needs a bit of a tweak. My open fuel tables are all at 11.3 AFR, so once tuning is done I'll set it back to a smoother table with higher AFRs at lower loads, which will make driving a little nicer.
High temp RTV silicone sealant added around the jet air nipple on the block. It's running a little leaner now, so I think there was a small boost leak there previously. Tune not looking too bad, but needs a bit of a tweak. My open fuel tables are all at 11.3 AFR, so once tuning is done I'll set it back to a smoother table with higher AFRs at lower loads, which will make driving a little nicer.
#262
Hybrid Greddy Boosted
Thread Starter
Car is going well, running at 13psi, and it's the fastest it's been. Spool is not quite as good as the t25 turbine housing, probably increased by around 200-300rpm. I've set the RPM Limiter to 8250, and top end doesn't taper off like it did with the t25.
NPD gas stations now offer 100 Octane here in New Zealand, so I've been using this for the last 2 months. It's Unleaded, non-ethanol based with ratings of 101.5 RON and 89 MON, equivalent to US 95 octane (average of RON and MON). According to my quick read through the Octane Rating article on Wiki, E85 has a similar US Octane rating of 95-96. I'm getting no additional fuel consumption from the higher octane - still the same lousy mileage. I sometimes drive the Leaf to work to keep my conscience clear.
I've been changing back and forth between 11.5psi (WG spring) and 13psi (elec. boost controller), and that extra 1.5psi seems to give a bigger step up in performance than I would have expected. Probably because the turbo compressor is coming into it's efficiency zone without being held back by excessive exhaust back pressure from the restrictive t25.
One minor item that requires a bit of attention is a bit of knocking/vibration sometimes at idle. It'll most likely be the exhaust pipe hitting a cross brace, or a slight sag in the engine mount causing the manifold/turbo to touch the subframe. This is quite likely as there was minimal clearance during install. I'm expecting an additional spacer on the mount should resolve this permanently.
NPD gas stations now offer 100 Octane here in New Zealand, so I've been using this for the last 2 months. It's Unleaded, non-ethanol based with ratings of 101.5 RON and 89 MON, equivalent to US 95 octane (average of RON and MON). According to my quick read through the Octane Rating article on Wiki, E85 has a similar US Octane rating of 95-96. I'm getting no additional fuel consumption from the higher octane - still the same lousy mileage. I sometimes drive the Leaf to work to keep my conscience clear.
I've been changing back and forth between 11.5psi (WG spring) and 13psi (elec. boost controller), and that extra 1.5psi seems to give a bigger step up in performance than I would have expected. Probably because the turbo compressor is coming into it's efficiency zone without being held back by excessive exhaust back pressure from the restrictive t25.
One minor item that requires a bit of attention is a bit of knocking/vibration sometimes at idle. It'll most likely be the exhaust pipe hitting a cross brace, or a slight sag in the engine mount causing the manifold/turbo to touch the subframe. This is quite likely as there was minimal clearance during install. I'm expecting an additional spacer on the mount should resolve this permanently.
The following 2 users liked this post by JimmyBlack:
RotaryMachineRx (03-05-2019),
Williard (03-10-2019)
#264
Hybrid Greddy Boosted
Thread Starter
Turbo inlet pipe got a bit of attention this last weekend. The left side of the pip already existed, finishing in the straight middle section. I added a 45 degree onto the right side of the straight pipe in the photo above. This replaces a 45 degree silicon joiner. Also added a BOV inlet.
The vent to atmosphere BOV was creating a lot of loud backfires. Was getting a bit too raucous for pretty much everyone except me. My son refused to ride in the car, and more than once a pedestrian jumped off the sidewalk when I eased off the gas at just the right time. It made me laugh a lot, but not that safe or pleasant for others.
Car is a lot more pleasant to drive now - no backfires or rich running after revving it out. Son also approves.
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JimmyBlack (03-06-2019)
#266
Boosted Kiwi
iTrader: (2)
Nice work ! My only suggestion (based on zoom zoom-boom experience) is to limit rpm to under 8000 at that boost level . For extra safety - have a look at your g/s logs and set rev cut at the point where g/s level off .
FWIW : I set my boost cut at around 7400 and rev cut to around 8300 . I hardly notice the dropoff after 7400 .. i think it's worth it to have a setup that can do that.
FWIW : I set my boost cut at around 7400 and rev cut to around 8300 . I hardly notice the dropoff after 7400 .. i think it's worth it to have a setup that can do that.
Last edited by Brettus; 03-05-2019 at 05:33 PM.
#267
Hybrid Greddy Boosted
Thread Starter
Thanks. Feels like it pulls harder as it gets closer to rev limit but I'll check g/s all the same. I don't have a fancy boost cut by RPM feature, so I'll just have to wing it
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JimmyBlack (03-06-2019)
The following users liked this post:
JimmyBlack (03-06-2019)
#270
Hybrid Greddy Boosted
Thread Starter
What a sneaky guy.
What boost level would you gauge as "not too dangerous" after the boost cut is triggered (I.e. recommended WG spring pressure)? I may have to trim down my WG springs to calibrate this as the LIM is showing around 10.5psi at 8krpm currently.
What boost level would you gauge as "not too dangerous" after the boost cut is triggered (I.e. recommended WG spring pressure)? I may have to trim down my WG springs to calibrate this as the LIM is showing around 10.5psi at 8krpm currently.
The following users liked this post:
JimmyBlack (02-10-2020)
The following 2 users liked this post by TeamRX8:
Brettus (02-06-2020),
JimmyBlack (02-10-2020)
#274
Hybrid Greddy Boosted
Thread Starter
I'm still loitering - I love seeing the incremental progress with the renesis. I was sad to see my 8 go, but feel it's in good hands with the new owner.
The final tally to date is:
The final tally to date is:
- 5 years since undertaking the NA to turbo conversion
- 3 different turbo wheel and housing combinations
- 0 blown motors
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