The fuel system needs help. Lot of us insane folks have been a studying on this issue for a while now--lots of good work has been done.
One option for this lazy/cheap old man seems to be the kenne bell boost a pump set up
Lets talk about it a little.
link---http://www.kennebell.net/accessories/boostapump/boostapump.htm

Now i understand that walbro pumps dont take to increased voltage well?-- this is something i dont know for sure--just something i have read about from a good source-
anyone with experience here--and i dont mean THAT kind.

i hhave installed an 09 assembly in my car and so i have a denso. i HEAR its more tolerant--again dont really know for sure.
i am more concerned with constant and reliable fuel pressures than anything else--say a road track with 1/2 tank.

questions? Answers? Old gypsy curses?

 

I am thinking of installing two fuel cells in place of the saddle tank, Tee everything, and use the stock feed line for a return.
An Aeroquip pump and 1 to 1 boost referenced pressure regulator would top off this mad dream.

But the ECU fuel pressure/AF mixture control would be gone.

 

I saw a dyno sheet from an Evo doing 870ish awhp on E85 with this Boost-A-Pump (not positive what pump is was boosting tho, I will see if I can find it) so it may work.

I honestly feel the factory fuel feed being only 5/16" is the limitation above 420-rwhp or so and it is a huge limitation on E85 fuel.

 

I ran one with my vette. Worked like a charm. Stock pump was moving enough fuel for 660RWHP without a hiccup. Though the pump in the vettes didnt have failure issues, they just ran out of steam above 550rwhp

If our pumps are failure prone though..seems to me this would only hasten its demise =/

 

good info guys---agree that the arron pumps may be streached as it is? But i am thinking the 09 denso can take it.
It can be set to only come on during set lbs of boost so in cruising it will not be activated? Right?
I know we are getting a little over 12 volts to the pump during the high pumping phase--bumping that up to 14 volts may help.
yep damn 5/16 line does have some restrictions--sigh. and it would be a fair amount of work to swape over to a bigger line with bigger fuel rails etc. Dang soda straw set up..
But i am hoping that the bap + 09 assembly will solve this. You can get an 09 unit now for $200 and you can find the bap for less than $200. A little investmant but to have a secure fuel supply would be worth it and keep the oem pump parameters.
Now those of us that want to explore over 400hp to the wheels-----wellll can you say aeromotive? external pump and sump tanks?
I may get one soon as I break in my engine. Heck cant even open the apv's yet.
600+hp vette?? Whoo Ha--can you say drivetrain? Bet that felt good--that back in your seat TQ and the smell of burning rubber. Ahhhh---American beast!
OD

 

Posted this over on the GA site. Hadn't found this thread so will post it here too..

My only question is if it might make the pop off valve on the venturi open when the boost-a-pump is operating?

If so, this is going to make the right to left gas draw problem worse because you're not going to be drawing any fuel from the right side of the tank when you are in boost? I'm thinking track use here. I know you're just looking for more reliable fuel delivery period...

 

Yea the BAP comes with a PSI switch that kicks it on above 5PSI if I recall correctly. And then you have a gain switch which lets you adjust how much it overvolts the pump. So it only overvolts the pump when you get into real boost to make sure it keeps the pressure steady when you are really sucking down the gas. If you are looking for a deal on one check out the LS1Tech forusm or the corvette forums, always people selling them at a decent discount.

And yes, spent many many weekends rebuilding my driveline from the clutch back
Heres some pics of where I installed the BAP in it..and some pics of how it spent every other weekend (between the ones at the track lol)

 

i see more than one power tube on the floor? Fun? That set up works well(transaxle like) but it can be labor intensive.
Very very nice dude--was it all motor?

The 09 pump assembly has a different and bigger venturi set up On Rails and I think it will be oK. Moving to 14 volts for a little while will not affect this --i dont think.
Lots of testing will need to be done to understand this more.
OD

 

Denny I would stay away from Aeromotive pumps- their reliability isn't too good and they are ungodly loud. The best pump IMO is a Bosch 044 Motorsports pump, one can support over 500rwhp on pump gas and just around 400rwhp on E85.

 

Yep, thats a replacement torque tube. I blew the torque tube power shifting 3rd to 4th at full boost Yea its a solid driveline setup so you cant just drop the driveshaft and pull the tranny like on most cars. To work on any of it you have to remove the ENTIRE driveline form the clutch back. And with Long tube headers you have to pull the plugs and headers as well. I got really good at it though I went through several clutches, clutch slaves, clutch masters, a couple pilot bearings, an input shaft, a torque tube, a differential and a few other things I cant recall atm. And all this was on my second engine. The first one spun a rod bearing before I started modding it.

Setup was heads, cam(221/221 .575/.575 112), Stock bottom end, Long tubes, full exhaust and a custom built(by me) procharger setup using a P1SC head unit @11psi. Made 666rwhp(yea i know lol) And I ran a best 10.98@131 on plain old BFG KDWs leaving soft at 2k rpm. I never put stickies on it as I was running stock tranny, rear and output shafts.

 

thanks cw just to know about the pumps. By the way I now have good motor mounts for us.!! PM me.

Mawee---yep understand! No stickes! Its hard to do dragging now a days with a stock clutched drivetrain.
You street drive it? 11 psi on a 10.5 compression engine?
I ran (in my time lol) a 55 chev coupe with the factory rated 396ci 375 hp (it was a LIE!) the one with the aluminum heads and oval exhausts ports. juiced it a little (not nitrous just a little engine work) munci 4 speed 2:20 1st , either a 4/11 or 4/56 rear gear, 10 inch wide flypapers and the other usual stuff. it was a heavy street DD car but i was in the low11's. I use to bend the leaf springs in the rear from all the tq---damn car would ride sideways for a day or 2 until fixed! replaced my sharge of u joints also. Only thing is I couldnt stop the beast--55 chev brakes aint that good. And if it rain i couldnt drive it because i still had the old vacum assisted windshield wipers lol! I was 17 yrs old. American Graffiti for real.
Now look what I am doing!!
olddragger

 

Nice!

The heads on the vette were 72cc 6.0 truck heads to lower the compression for the boost. And I drove it to work nearly every day(if it wasnt broke) Once I was on the second engine and did all the mods the engine was absolutely trouble free. All that tracking and daily driving it never missed a beat. It was just the driveline parts that couldnt take the abuse. I reached a crossroads with it where I either had to let the car go or spend 10-15k on a custom built Torque tube, built tranny, Differential and hardened halfshafts.
I ended up demodding it and trading it in on my Rx8 (vette had almost 100k on it). Still undecided if that was a good choice

 

vettes are tougher than most realize. interesting that you used the truck heads. smart too.

well 2 past muscle folks playing around with a rotary--who would have tunk?
FI on this engine does make a BIG difference I am finding out a lot. I never would have though diesel oil was good for this engine.
It aint a drag car at all, but the road track is like a 20 min drag race.
And it has good brakes, wipers and the plugs that last a little longer than a week like they did in the 396!.
OD