Starting to believe the only way to get power out of these near 2stroke motors is to boost or spray them. I guess a port job on the rotor housings would help some, but as far as bolt one I'm thinking one could expect a mere 20hp at best. Maybe do some free mods to boost airflow and lighten the car up anyway possible (carbon fiber body panels/chunck the interior). Treat it like a dirt bike? Maybe a different gear ratio out back? What else is there when u don't have displacement LOL.

 

Well I've found the electrical problem that was causing my ABS, DSC and Power steering to go out. Dont ever drill through the main wireway grommet in the firewall(drivers side) to run wires Turns out I cut several wires in doing so. The bitch of it was that that grommet is melted around the wires from the factory, so it wasnt as simple as just pulling out the broken wires on both sides and patching them. I had to completely unhook the entire harness from under my dash and pull it out to operate on it. Still need to finish soldering that back together then put everything back and hope I didnt damage anything else in the process
Hopefully I can put these elctrical issues behind me and get back on track for my turbo build

EDIT- Its alive! I now have all my fancy features back. If I were the devious type...I could have put a switch on the wire that disabled my speedo/odometer

 

Ok, I finally think everything I need is on the way. Every fitting, bit, piece, gasket, flange is all ordered. From the engine all the way back to my shiney new 3" magnaflow exhaust tips Only thing I will have to buy are a few random coolant hoses to clear the hot stuff.

Hope to start work on it in the next couple weeks.

 

wrong - you never have everything you need

 

LOL yea, I know it. Spent the last couple of days going over my sketches and blueprints going "oh yea! still need that" and ordering it.

The only things that I am still unsure of are:
-If I have enough 3" bends for my exhaust, may have to get some bent.

-If my oil return line will be long enough to reach the oil pan(it'll be close)

-Still have to put together a base tune for it. I'm still pouring over the Racetuner help and tuning forum trying to get all the 'rotorycentricies' into my head. My only tuning experience is with EFIlive on my vette, but that was after getting a rough base tune from one of the best LS1 tuners in the country.

 

you turbo is in Fed ex hands now.

 

Woot! Thanks again Bryan!

 

Yesterday Fedex tried to deliver my turbo 20 minutes after I left for work(9:30am). Today I have to be at work at 2pm, it was 1:15pm and I was in the middle of posting a thread complaining I was gonna miss it again. Instead, Fedex showed up just in time. Now I"m gonna be late to work because I had to open it and take pics

Its beautiful!

Thanks again Bryan!

 

A quick vent.

I've spent the last 4 F#$ing hours looking all over the web for the best way to connect the coolant lines to my turbo. The turbo threads are 16mm x 1.5 . Now, I can go to summit racing and through a collection of half a dozen NPT adapters and fittings(at $20 a pop) get it converted to a steel braided line that wont match any fitting on our cars. They DO make banjo fittings for turbos with 16mm threads but google shows the ONLY place that you can buy them is Ebay, and the ONLY two shops selling them are in F@#$ing Australia or Japan! Seriously WTF? Am I the only person in this country running this turbo? Is it too much to ask that the turbo manufacturers use a standard thread size so you can just screw a f@#ing hose barb into it?

Its now 4am and I think I'm going to go try to sleep before I go out in the garage and start welding pipes onto the coolant ports on my turbo.

 

There is a NPT fitting that will seal up in a 16/1.5 banjo thread. Go to lowes, or H depot with the turbo and see which one is the closest. You can get the banjo fittings from Mazda. Order them for a 87-91 rx7 turbo II.

Remember you can clock that turbocharger any way you want. Make sure that the oil feed is between 11 and 1 o clock. All you do is loosen the turbine housing and compressor housing bolts and turn them any way you want.

Bryan

 

Thanks for the info Bryan

Yea I figured clocking it would be just like with my procharger. I may even polish up the compressor housing before I install it.

Edit- Just ordered the banjo bolts and barbs from japan. Supposedly they are very fast at shipping, we shall see. Of course now the problem is I wont know what size hose fits the barbs until they get here. I'd like to tap into the heater core outlet to get some quality flow for it, but not if the banjo fittings are going to be too restrictive.

 

It's much easier just to use the throttle body coolant circuit.

 

yea but that line is so...tiny. I use larger coolant lines in my computer!

 

It's all you need. Don't worry about reinventing the wheel here........

 

I second the chickenwafer! :D

 

TB line it is then.

Thanks guys. I really do appreciate all the input and advice

 

Updated original post with some pics!

Just waiting on a couple of my intake parts and the coolant fittings to arrive. I work...alot the next couple weeks, but I will try to arrange some time off around the end of the month to start work on it.

 

So the AccessPort is DEFINITELY the best way to control and tune your car. However, it is very very picky about the air flow across the MAF sensor so I would make sure you do plenty of homework about the tubing surrounding the MAF. I know it's been discussed on a few threads in here, or message some of the "overboosted overlords" about it. I can't help you more than that, just something you need to be sure to address before you start assembling things.

 

Yep, I've read every bit of info on the issues with the Cobb. I have 32" of 3.5" straight tubing coming.

I will be removing the maf tube from the factory box to use intact in my setup. The setup will be:

3" inlet filter (in the bumper) --> Small section of 3" tubing --> 90 degree silicon reducer 3.5" to 3" --> ~10" Section of straight 3.5" tube --> Maf tube --> section of 3.5" tube(as long as I have room for) --> 90 degree silicon reducer 3.5" to 3" --> Turbo

 

Snagged a good deal on an AEM Tru Boost Guage/Controller. Now I'll have the matching AEM setup on my steering column
Still not sure if its a good thing for me to have a boost controller. While it will allow me to fine tune things, it will also be right there infront of me saying "Just push that little button for more boost!"

I wonder how long I will really go before upgrading everything so I can turn it up

 

Well, the carnage begins next week. I've taken most of next week off to start work on it. I"m 'hoping' I can get it together in that time. If not I'll at least try to finish all the fab work and then do the install on a free weekend.

 

Tomorrow is D-day(deconstruction).
After I get home from work I'll get the front bumper and exhaust removed before I go to bed. I wont have work till friday so I hope to knock it out. My plan is:

Mon - Manifold/Downpipe(Cutting&Welding day!)
Tues - Oil pan/oil lines/coolant lines
Wed - Intercooler, Cold piping, Intake/MAF
Thurs - Guages, misc button up- hopefully Startup!

Even I'm looking at this schedule saying "Yea right!" But I'm gonna give it a shot. I'll try to post updates before I pass out every night.

 

wow, hope everything goes as planned
usually it's the little things that end up holding you up...like stuck bolts
GL dude; take lots of pics

 

That bc fails hard, good luck

 

^+1 aem tru boost ftl.