apparently the actuator can be taken apart (if you are clever) and a larger spring put in . There could be a little adjustment with the stock spring (just wind in the clevis as far as it will go ) but not sure that will get you much


edited

 

you can just buy a new actuator assembly. you can't really take the other one apart and get it back together.

 

cool - where from and what part no ?

 

i've been looking on Himni Racing. not sure if they have any for the greddy turbo but they have them for the GT3071R.

 

This is really confusing me .
Currently i'm at 41 lbs /min and 6.3 psi . so P1/P2 = 1.45

this puts my turbo way off the chart - what gives ?

Even if im losing say 1.5 psi through the piping my PR would still be off the chart at 1.53 .

 

Charge temperature.

 

are you saying my charge temp will be too high and I shouldn't run it up there ?
I still don't get it - at 6psi you would need to be around 220g/s to be on the chart which is what the car makes NA .....

 

The charge temps will be high, but they are also throwing off your calculations.
At max flow, the NA Renesis only pulls about 190 g/sec, which is about 25 lbs.
At a Pr or 1.6 (8psi), you are off the efficiency chart at 280 g/sec.
That doesn't mean the turbo cant push that air, it just means its really hot.
Which, in turn, actually lowers the effective flow.

 

So , that tells me that i'm better off raising the psi to say 10psi and changing gear earlier 7000 -7500 to stay safe (ish) rather than wind it out to 8500 or so at a lower psi

 

Yes.
Plus, the motor pretty much stops making boosted power at 7500 RPM, anyway.

 

ok thanks for that - may have to somehow stage the p2s a little earlier if i am to do that . The secondaries are already at 100% duty cycle (according to my powermod) .

 

has anyone done a dyno yet with the upgrade?

for the upgrade cost, you may as well get a ball bearing turbo though.

 

I have it gave me 260hp with no drop off at all after 7500 - but with only 5-6psi from 6500 onwards . May dyno again once io'm back on the road and got it humming at 10psi (if i'm feeling brave)
agree about the ball bearing thing but if you allready have the upgrade I don't think the jump to the MM turbo will be nearly as dramatic ....

 

whut? no drop off, but it dropped off? Can you hold 9 psi to redline?

 

I meant no power drop off .

I can get 10psi at 7500 but had issues there . Not sure what I can get at redline - not game to try as my IATs will probably be through the roof

 

The power always drops off. It may not feel like it, which is why we need a dyno chart to see what it's doing

 

/\ not necessarily - it only drops off if you go past a certain hp level .
At 260hp with the upgrade turbo it doesn't drop off and I have the dyno to prove it

 

yeah, I guess you're low enough that it doesn't drop off much. If you raised boost, you'll get a nice midrange gain, but it will drop down to where your peak is now.

 

i should've been saying this all along.

btw, turbo looks clean. hope you enjoy it.

 

wonder what happened to carbon - that was his last post ...

 

Some have less tolerance to the "forum crap" than others

Personally I find it entertaining......better than TV

 

I am around. With the "end-of-year" issues at work and at home, I haven't had time to do much else. I hadn't seen this thread since and am surprised that it has gone so long.

I decided to ditch the int-x (which will go on sale at some ridiculous price) and run the accessport (or more accurately the stock pcm.) I got it from Jeff and have it already. I also decided to buy Jeff's upgrade. I bought it and am awaiting delivery sometime in March. I will likely install the Mazsport upgrade this week, tune the car with it, then install the Lucifer's Lighter (or whatever you all are calling the Honeywell 3076 that jeff mods) when I get it in the spring. I might then sell the mitsu unit cheap.

I am currently working on deciding how to stage the injectors that I have. I bought the 650cc and 720(780?)cc from Mazsport but because I am going to ditch the int-x I think I should rearrange the injectors from what scott suggested. I am thinking of keeping the 290 (reds) in their P1 spot, then put the 650s in secondary and the 720s in P2 (or 720 at sec and 650 at p2.) Unfortunately, I dont have the sophistication to make that decision unaided and would welcome advice. I might post this question in its own thread.

I did install my new Bride Gias on lowmax rails. LOTS of headroom, even with a helmet. I will say that my USDM butt barely fits in that JDM seat.

 

^dibs on the upgraded greddy turbo! wouldn't mind having that lying around when mine craps out. let me know when you are ready to sell.

 

The upgraded Greddy kicks *** . True story !

 

Well, the car is approaching completion. I kinda made a iffy decision that bit me in the ***. I sent off my downpipe and exhaust manifold to JetHot for their e-series ceramic coating. I dealt with them before and had good turn around.

Not this time. After numerous calls where they told me that they would call back and let me know where things stood, and after a month of having my parts, I eventually called and asked for my parts back. I got them the next week...coated. The coat looks great and they do good work, but I am a little shocked at their CS. I would be hesitant to send them stuff again (but would still call, I suppose.)

So the day I got the parts, I started bolting things up. Turbo is such a PITA to get in that small space. I should be able to fire things up this weekend. AFTER NEARLY A YEAR IN MY GARAGE!!!!

We will see.

If any one has tips on how to get the turbo and manifold in place while they are in one piece, please post up. I shifted the motor over and everything and still had to put them in one at a time. Such a pain.