Grrr, I have been driving around and logging and noticed I see this hiccup occur at the 6500 rpm range. Looking at my flash notes on the tunes on what I have been adjusting and noticed at 6500 at a load of 130-200 i increased it 1.02. Going to scale it down, and hopefully I see some improvement.... Thinking I overshot it here since the tune before that, I also tweaked the same range at 6500-7500 RPM; Load 120-200 @ 1.03. Hopefully I see some progress... Radar detector keeps going off and a state trooper is always around the corner on the country roads... maybe time to just goto a track and tune day at the drag strip so I can be worry free.

 

can we get an Engrish translation?

 

post some logs. What do you mean by hiccup? Is the car leaning out or going rich? Hesitation during WOT runs in this area?

 

It is goin too rich in my opinion, the logs don't show much since the stock sensor is pegged at 11. Going to lean up a little bit so I can see some hovering at the low 11's until I get my wideband working.

 

Did you change something between the two logs previously posted? First log seemed fine to me. Second log went to AFR flatline way too early IMO.

lazy *** + turbo boost = boom

 

I was adjusting the VE table at the load ranges to richen it up a little, I am going to revert the tune back a couple of versions and head to a dyno this week to tune it up if they have some openings. I will be able to see the afrs and get a couple of good logs to tune as I won't be sitting on a backroad worrying about cops at least.

Spoke to an Rx7 tuner about my Innovate wideband, and he said the couple that he has had never worked so he ended up recommending an AEM or PLX over the innovate that I currently have. Unfortunately, I am out of the period to return it or exchange it, so thinking I will get a new one... Just going to do a little research on the PLX or AEM. Any thoughts on the two others? I know the innovate works with the Cobb, just I can't even get the Cobb to connect to my computer live as I have the second version and it appears to be bugged like other 2nd editions.

 

On a good note, side skirts painted and on the car finally. Fitment was ok, just amazed that the 3M is holding as there was some flex required as the back would be flush and in the front it was about 3 to 4 inches away from the car. The clips on the back and front should help keep the 3M stay bonded.

 

Why would you adjust VE rather than the appropriate fuel map cells on a MAF system?

 

I've got an Innovate on backorder, so keen to hear how it's not working - does it read differently from your OBD AFRs or flakey below 11? Sensor placement makes a difference-I'm gonna use the 2nd bung in my BHR midpipe, approx 15cm downstream from where the OE sensor is located in the Greddy down pipe. Any feedback appreciated.

 

^This. If your MAF and injectors are calibrated correctly the fuel map cells should be within 3% deviation. VE shouldn't really be needed unless fine tuning in certain areas. This could be what you're doing.
Only using VE to tune is a huge band-aid more or less... In N/A format I've only had to adjust VE at 6000-6100rpm due to the lean spike I was seeing at WOT at 6200-6300rpm. I haven't personally experienced tuning a turbo car yet, but in theory it should work the same.

 

I think people read MAP tuning theory/tips which is highly VE dependent and don't understand the difference with MAF tuning ...

 

that makes a lot of sense Team.

 

Right before it started snowing Kane had me go in and do the MAF and injectors, there really is not much needed on the tune imo, he just advised me to slightly adjust the VE so I am x% within the MAF targets.

If it ends up not being where it looks like it should be, I will reach out to Kane for another tuning session.

On the Innovate though, I know there are members that have it working, just mine did not work unfortunately.

Natto really doesn't have a smell, unless my sense are off...

 

Or imo jochu either by my own standards, but a lot of other people not accustomed to either disagree

I don't dispute Kane's way of tuning it, but VE is a system wide change and a coarser one at that IMO.



.

 

on the innovate issues, I never received a bad one. I've had 2 in the past that fired up with no problem. What exactly what the issue? My first install I wired up the "recalibration" wire so it never read correctly. I quickly realized my mistake and went back through the wires to leave that particular one unconnected. Did you calibrate it outside of the piping in fresh air? If you do change I recommend PLX over AEM. I've never seen a bad PLX but I've seen plenty issues with AEM. This is pulling instances just from locals. I'm sure via internet you can find issues with them all.

 

Looks like AEM, PLX and Innovate all use the same UEGO sensor (Bosch LSU 4.2).

 

Good to know . I have had to replace mine once but only after i ran over a possum - was cheap to replace and I have had good reliability with it and the AEM gauge - (100,000 turbo kms )

 

This is the same exact issue that I was having that I could never get sorted working with Kane and then Brett. Many ideas were thrown around, injectors were replaced, etc. and nothing fixed it completely.

When I finally gave up and took the road trip (tough trip with the issue) to Steve Kane, he had that issue fixed after about five minutes on the dyno and the frustrating part is that I don't know how since he just does his thing and doesn't share (understandingly).

I have the PLX with the DM-6 and I hate it. When it works it works, but it freezes and just doesn't work sometimes. Same for the Boost gauge. PLX replaced it and it worked for a while and then started doing the same thing all over again. When it works I like it and it has some cool features.

 

Harsh ...... I think i saw a couple of logs and was starting to see what the problem might be when you dropped me like a lead balloon and took up the offer from Steve .

Good on him for finding it straight away though ... being there is always easier .

 

^ so what was it?

 

never got the chance to find out ..............

 

Well took the car to my buddy's lift and interesting enough, i lost 3 of the 5 8MM studs on the turbo with one missing nut, so it was sealing with only 1 stud. Ordering the the studs online as not one auto store around me carries metric studs and has only standard.

Looks like I will try another LC-1 , hurry and connect it this time and if it does not work, I will return it.

 

I've been told cone nuts are the ones to go for. They deform when you tighten them, like nylock but made of metal. They're a throw away item. Tighten during install. Drive a few cycles and tighten a bit more then leave them alone. If you ever undo them, replace with new nuts. Dunno about retaining compound or anti-seize on the studs though. Perhaps nuts fell off and studs loosened after.

 

 

So I bought the LC1 again, and they sent me the LC2... The LC2 is much better as calibrating is not such a pain in the *** like the LC1. I would definitely recommend it over the LC1.

The vendors sent me the wrong studs, but I was tinkering around True Value and amazingly enough they sold my studs, never knew they had an automotive section. Ended up getting longer studs, and they work like a charm. This time I received some nice lock nuts.