okay man ... i just wanted to throw that out there before you went too far ...

either way ... I am here to help ... just a recommendation that's all

I fully support custom turbo builds ... they are few and far between

I am going to be doing one myself at some point

 

After looking over some of the oil pressure treads "i actually looked b/4 asking this" It appears the series 1 rx8 have over 30-40 psi of oil pressure at as low as only 3k. So doing some research Ive came to the conclusion that I will need a ristrictor size of 0.065 what's your input on this i will attach a pix for reference.
BTW garrets web site states that on journal barring turbos the restrictor is not needed as long as the turbo doesn't see over 40psi but at higher oil pressure I imagine we would be well over that psi. I dont want to starve the turbo but obvisouly I do not want to flood it Please help

 

I am running that restrictor without issue. I actually just purchased and an oil pressure gauge to mount on the turbo feed line so I can see what the exact pressure is.

 

I was actually thinking of using the same Idea you need to post a pix so I can get a clean install.

 

I will post pics in my build thread when I install it. I already have a "T" fitting installed with NPT fittings and I just have the 3rd port plugged for now so I just need to screw the gauge in and that's it.

 

you would be better to do a flow test and compare that with what they got in the oil restrictor thread .

 

Yeah I plan on doing that my next oil change. Let's see what kind of a mess I can make

 

What condition is your rear iron and housing in? I just picked up a blown engine that I want to rebuild ... guy said he drove through a puddle ... and then I found a piece of an apex seal in the intake runner ... coils had cracks in them

 

Everything's good shape cleaned and inspected I was originally going to rebuild the engines but I got an engine out of a wrecked 8 and swapped it in for a much better price than rebuilding I have the rotors and ecc shaft intake manifold pretty much all with the exception of the starter alt and oil pan and Im have away both housings well actually one and I plan on keeping the other for a conversation piece

 

let me tear apart the shortblock i bought and i will let you know ... the rear rotor is toast for sure ... I am hoping the center iron is okay ... but I already found shavings in the intake and the exhaust so i am not so sure.....

 

Need help guys what oil feed flange fitting will fit this.
From bolt hole to bolt hole it measures 2 inches
From edge to edge its 2 1/2 full inches?

I have ordered 2 and ones to big ones to small Im pissed rite now.

 

Your turbo is a GT28?

http://www.pcpa.com.au/store/proper-...t-3-8-npt.html

 

I started installing everything the first step was to modify the 7psi waist gate flange so I could use instead of going external. first step i decided to just modify the factory bracket so I could use the same bolts that brace the bracket. 1step was to cut in half. The next step is a slow process but I repositioned the waist gate until It would fit and the shaft of the Waistgate was perfectly straight and welded everything up.

The reason this is a must is because of the limited room we have the waistgate can not work unless the bracket is modified.

 

nice job

 

Update I got 2 days off work so I can start Installing I have a few issues 1st is the oil return I have only ab 1/2'' to work with any suggestion's on how I should do this ill post a pix of the problem.

2. Is the downpipe I have a pretty big gap from the d/p to the cat I could problem pull it in but I'm not so sure of the long time effects of this like possibly cracking the downpipe? I was thing ab just Modifying the exhaust like possible cutting the exhaust adding a little more piping in the straight part after the cat.
What you guys think.

3. Insulating the car from the heat The turbo housing is so close to the body of the car Im afraid of this catching fire also the omp and all the hoses attached to the manifold I dont think they would be to happy with all that extra heat as well . Ive seen the heat blankets avb whats your thoughts on that or whats worked the best for you. all and all Its Been a Productive day.

 

get a custom mid pipe made. You dont want to run a cat with a turbo anyway


make sure to hammer in around where the turbo sits. just about everyone does this. Kane has a good thread with pics with what I am referring to. here kanes build

 

make sure to hammer in around where the turbo sits. just about everyone does this. Kane has a good thread with pics with what I am referring to. here kanes build[/quote]


Sweet I will give that a try Also It just crossed my mind that I have an old factory mid pipe that the cat was gutted in so I may give that a try or just fab my own. Ill just put that on the back burrner for now.

Next question I found a way that I can Utilize the factory connection at the manifold Do you guys see any problem with the 3 lines seeing boost pressure I will attach a pix for ref. I Would like to use this because Its got the ripples in it so It can flex with the movment of the engine.

 

no, you will want OMP plumbed pre turbo (no boost)

jet air can go post turbo

 

I recently found a drawback to plumbing the jet air and omp post turbo - air bypasses the throttle at part throttle . This can lead to a lean condition (14.7 at over 100% load) as the ecu wont exit CL . Almost impossible to tune this out with CL exit throttle maps.

 

so jet air back to pre turbo with check valve?

 

My jet air hose is plumbed to the AEM MAF housing. Which reminds me that I need a check valve there, I keep forgetting to get one.

 

I think this is the best setup - yes . It does work either way and i doubt most people would even notice the lean condition at part throttle. Even with it set up pre turbo you need to adjust exit throttle maps to get it out of CL early enough to prevent a lean condition.

 

Sweet so essentially The line that goes to the jet air and the oil filling tube Will be fine just run the omp on the pipeing the maf goes on. Also I guess the smart think to do would be to keep the distance ab the same as stock locaition so Its not to interfere with the maf Ruffly 6-8'' ?

 

Has anyone verified flow back ... I am thinking a check valve may be unnecessary due to venturi effect

 

Have not heard anyone verify - do it !