Problem is it is gear driven at the front cover....what are you going to use to turn it?

 

I don't know. I have never taken it off to look. Just random theorising

 

I'm having a problem with too much oil consumption.
I just got an oil change and 146 miles later my oil light came on and I'm at the bottom line on the dipstick.
I changed my plugs yesterday and two of the, we're oily but all four were black.
My compression is good. Had it tested last week which leads me to believe its not an internal problem. Could the OPM be open too far which is causing it to burn too much oil?
If so where should it be positioned? I've been searching all day and can't find any answers to my questions.

 

I'm having a problem with too much oil consumption.
I just got an oil change and 146 miles later my oil light came on and I'm at the bottom line on the dipstick.
I changed my plugs yesterday and two of the, we're oily but all four were black.
My compression is good. Had it tested last week which leads me to believe its not an internal problem. Could the OPM be open too far which is causing it to burn too much oil?
If so where should it be positioned? I've been searching all day and can't find any answers to my questions.

 

I replaced my engine myself a little over a year ago and the OMP sensor on the doner engine was smashed. I transfered the sensor over but got a CEL and limp mode. What worked for me was turning the OMP all the way clockwise and then back counterclockwise just a little bit. I've not had a problem since and use about a quart every 2000 miles or so. But I drive mostly highway. It uses less on a steady state cruise and more the harder and higher you rev it.

 

Oil control ring / Side seal failure

If you suspect oil your OMP being problem, you can try swapping OMP lines/injectors from front to back, running new or clean spark plugs and see if oily plugs will move too, or if they stay same.....if they move, problem is OMP or oil injectors, if they stay, its internal engine problem...

Fastest test would be just blocking out OMP lines for few minutes of engine running with new/clean spark plugs.....if you still will get oil on spar plugs, its rebuild time......

 

Has anyone tried restricting the vaccum line to the OMP to increase flow? They talk about it in his tread, just thought....

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=OMP

 

^^when in Tardville, do as the Tards do ....

 

Haven't done anything my 8, has been turbo for the last four years I never pre-mix nor have I made any changes to my OMP and I never had any issues, just a thought everyone is so worried about this but has anyone blow a motor cause of this issue? There's plenty people who think pre-mixing dose nothing benifitial to and or for the 8 just my two cents....

 

I was specifically referring to that thread and commented there appropriately

 

^word understood....

 

So does anyone conclusively know what the max safe or effective number to use in the oiling map table? This post https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=173 seems to give that number as 60. However in this one, https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=150 Delmeister indicates an *assumption* that 60 is max. I'm not entirely sure where that assumption stops. Naively, I scaled entire table by 1.33 which means my new max was 80. There don't seem to be any ill effects so far, but if more than 72 steps disengages the stepper gear, I'm also rather wondering if something bad may have happened without me noticing yet. Oil consumption does seem to be up quite a bit over the stock map, but I've only driven ~ 600 miles since the change.

 

RT will let you scale it up to 100 maximum

 

RT will let you, but it seems not to be the right thing to do. Threads for reference around this area: https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...1&postcount=21

 

about to start researching the position sensor for the RX8 OMP, getting a lot of inquiries for them and Mazda doesn't sell this separate from the OMP. Seems rather nonsensical to make people pay $1500 for a new OMP just to get a sensor.

both the OMP and sensor are made by Mikuni.

I have two sensors with slightly different part #s. The part # is on the side of the sensor facing towards the rear of the car. Would like to collect some more #s to see if there is any general commonality between them if anyone else can contribute. Thanks.

 

I will check the part numbers on my sensor when I get home, I have a broken one off the car. Luckily a member on here had an extra I just received I'll check that one as well. I'm also going to take some resistance readings. I want to also go pick up the TPS (from the Mazda KL series V6) that look identical to the omp sensor, and get resistance readings off that part as well to see if it's usable.

 

The only sensor, if you want to call it that, is an on/off switch. Most of the time the pump is running 'blind'. The computer 'assumes' the volume flow rate is where it's supposed to be by keeping track of the positive and negative steps it has sent to the pump.

Every so often the computer directs the pump to go back to zero (and probably sends a few more pulses to make sure it is hard against the stop). It then runs the pump up to 52 or so steps and looks for a change in the state of the switch. If it detects the change within its allotted step window, it's good to go and starts controlling the pump keeping track of the steps.

 

Yes, I likely have as much info compiled on the OMP as anyone. Regardless of what you want to call it, there is still a need for a cost effective replacement.

 

Spare from '05 6 port M/T : 426616
One on car from JDM (not that it matters) '04 4 port M/T: 434533
One sent to Bose originally on a '05 4 port A/T: ??

 

Thanks again, I'll report back if this one works. Haven't had time to install it yet.

It shouldn't matter if it's from an AT and mine's MT, should it?

 

Shouldn't matter. I had the pump your sensor came off of on 2 engines. None threw a code, both went through what I'd consider an average amount of oil per 1,000 mi.

Plus if it doesn't work, for whatever reason, I have another I can send from a 148,000 mile 6 port. The sensor is fine but the pump itself is past it (but didn't throw any codes either...).

Break.

Team: the closest I found after about 45 minutes of keyboard-commando'ing it on the taxpayer's dime was a TPS from a Grand Vitara / Chevy Tracker. P/N 91175256.

Form factor is similar but not 100% the same. Eyeballing it, the part where the sensor interfaces with the MOP on the Tracker TPS looks to be of a larger diameter than the one on the RX8 MOP. According to the internets:

0.5 – 1.2 V
Ignition switch turned ON and throttle
valve at idle position with
warmed engine

3.4 – 4.7 V
Ignition switch turned ON and throttle
valve at full open position

Mazda was clueless when I called. I think I confused the operator at Mikuni American when I said "metering oil pump." She transferred me to Carburetor sales. ha ha.

I'll keep looking.

 

Got through to Mikuni's Chicago office, the answer I got from them was "due to liability reasons, we can't recommend that you use the RX8 MOP position sensor on any other vehicle, or vice versa use the position sensor from another vehicle on your Mazda RX8."

You might have better luck. I was asking about parts interchange. Perhaps if you phrase it differently you might get a better answer?

The lady who answered was very helpful. 847-781-2000 is the number. Don't be fooled by the robot that answers, if you wait long enough it'll either go to a general delivery voicemail or the operator.

 

Killer, should be all set then. I'll be installing in about 2 hours when I get off work.

 

It's like talking to a wall. Resistances? Voltages?

It's just a switch!! It is highly unlikely that it is defective, unless it is physically smashed. Who has test data that to show otherwise?

 

Switches, any switch, can and do go bad. Sometimes they get melted in some FI applications due to the exhaust manifold routing. Or any number of other reasons like maybe just doing something stupid like misplacing it, etc.. I don't question their ability to determine if a simple switch is bad or not or how it happened. I'm just trying to find an easy replacement for the people who say they need one.