My Greddy Turbo Install
10-06-2005, 08:00 PM
#1
My Greddy Turbo Install
Started installing the greddy kit recently. so far the battery is out, intake is out, strut bar is off, oil pan drained and soon to come off, the cross bar underneath is off b/c we couldnt get to the bolts on the oil pan, and now the cat will come off tomorrow. It sure is hard without a lift and air tools, lol. Im trying to get 4 jack stands by tomorrow so i can get underneath the car easier, wish me luck! Any suggestions from those who have done this and know sum tricks of the trade are always appreciated too 
.
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10-06-2005, 10:53 PM
#2
Registered User
I used a floor jack to hold the engine/transmission up while the engine mount was off and two jackstands to hold the front of the car up, only place it was really tight was at the back cat bolts but I am skinny so it worked fine for me
10-07-2005, 01:04 PM
#4
just take your time one peace of advice .
Make sure all your bolts are tight especially the oil line heheh
a few(including myself) thought we tighten all the bolts and when we start our car
oil start pouring down.. heh
one peace of advice .Make sure all your bolts are tight especially the oil line
heheh a few(including myself) thought we tighten all the bolts and when we start our car
oil start pouring down.. heh
10-07-2005, 01:06 PM
#5
Originally Posted by adrian-1
Did you verify all the parts were in the box? Mine was missing a few nuts, but another member was missing an intercooler pipe.
Yup check your parts.. I pre assemble mine in the dinning room then took it apart and put the nuts and bolts on a zip lock bag and labled it.
10-08-2005, 12:53 PM
#7
Consiglieri
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put teflon tape on all legs of the oil tee.
you might need to move the engine and tranny up and down a bit to get the turbo in there.
a little soapy water will help you put the rubber sleeves between the pipes.
anti-seezing compound on the bolts around the manifold, turbo and downpipe.
I found the oil swtich was 15/16ths. Yes, it is standard, not metric. Take the clutch line out of the bracket to make some room. Then, slip a 15/16 deep-well socket on the switch. Due to the length of the socket that I used, I didn't have enough room left over to use the ratchet. I used visegrips to turn the socket. It worked pretty well.
Use some high temp epoxy (available at Lowes, made by JB weld folks) to put the thermotec insulation on. Use it around the edges and behind it. That stuff claims 2000deg. temperature rating, but it separates from the adhesive and will fall across the turbo, making a nice burning smell.
that's all for now. I might think of some more later.
-MD
you might need to move the engine and tranny up and down a bit to get the turbo in there.
a little soapy water will help you put the rubber sleeves between the pipes.
anti-seezing compound on the bolts around the manifold, turbo and downpipe.
I found the oil swtich was 15/16ths. Yes, it is standard, not metric. Take the clutch line out of the bracket to make some room. Then, slip a 15/16 deep-well socket on the switch. Due to the length of the socket that I used, I didn't have enough room left over to use the ratchet. I used visegrips to turn the socket. It worked pretty well.
Use some high temp epoxy (available at Lowes, made by JB weld folks) to put the thermotec insulation on. Use it around the edges and behind it. That stuff claims 2000deg. temperature rating, but it separates from the adhesive and will fall across the turbo, making a nice burning smell.
that's all for now. I might think of some more later.
-MD
10-08-2005, 01:09 PM
#8
thanks everyone, sound like sum good advice. Yea zoom zoom, i have 2 jackstands on the front, and today i'm gonna use the jack to hold the engine mount. I think I have to get sum pb blaster to get the bolts off of the manifold b/c those suckers are on there really tightly. I think there a lil rusted and no matter how hard we tried we couldnt get them off yesterday. Anyway, i get that manifold off and I"m ready to put that turbo on.
10-08-2005, 04:00 PM
#9
Registered User
yea, pb blaster and a leverage bar on your socket wrench will nudge those bolts loose. Just apply pressure easy so you don't round them off. Damn, i wish I was there helping, this thread makes me miss my 8 even more!
10-08-2005, 06:00 PM
#10
So i get one of the 2 bolts off of each side of the cat and exhaust manifold. Those bolts on the other side are sons of bithces and won't budge for ****. But, i i wiggled the cat enough with my hands that it came lose from the manifold. So, i guess that works. Anyhow, I am now ready for the engine mount to come off...but I have to admit I'm afraid. I wish there was an alternative, but I guess I'm gonna have to deal with it. I think a 16mm works for the mount, but I am unsure where to let the jack rest underneath it. Should i put a piece of wood in place of where my old oil pan was, or is there a specific place that u let ur jack hit. Zoom Zoom, I wish u were here too since u've alrdy done this, lol.
10-08-2005, 06:24 PM
#12
sure thing. great price huh? Anyway, I think that i can place the jack on the transmission so when i take that mount off it should hold. I should place it as close to the oil pan as possible is what im guessing, please tell me if this isnt a good idea and if yall did anything different that is better, thanks.
10-08-2005, 09:55 PM
#14
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you've probably done it already, but...
put the jack underneath the flat part at the front of the tranny, behind the engine. That's what the service manual shows.
put the jack underneath the flat part at the front of the tranny, behind the engine. That's what the service manual shows.
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