Redmond07

Hi all, I've been lurking around these forums for a few months now and feel I finally have a legitimate question that I cannot answer by searching.
So my situation is I just purchased a NOS brand wet kit complete with bottle warmer, all switches, and automatic bottle opener-so my kit is more or less complete. All that's left before I can install is changing the NGK oem plugs out, and replacing them with the NGK 3795 (L) and the NGK 5009 (T.) My question is, these racing plugs retail locally for about $78 a piece, so are there any other cold plugs FI users have tried and seemed to work well? If I have to, I don't mind spending the money, but if there's something cheaper that is equally effective I wouldn't mind giving it a try.

So, NGK racing plugs or something else?

-David.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

what shot are you gonna be running? 55 is the highest recommended w/o tuning and even thats iffy. why did you go with nos over zex which has been proven on our cars? the stock plugs are fine unless your gonna do something crazy which is not recommended. make sure your coils plugs and wires are in good working order. only spray at wot above 4-4.5k. gl

wcs

iTrader: (2)

+1 with everything said ... except the 55 shot being iffy ...
Has been rock solid for me .... no issues using a Zex Wet kit which requires no tuning just the correct jet settings.

The OP didn't indicate if he was using a Wet or Dry kit .....

edit:
OP did indicate wet kit, sorry

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

he did say he got a wet kit. i wonder if he has an auto or 6mt? and what year. what shot are you running? do you have a cobb?

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Ran a 55 shot for a year or so, then went to a 65 shot and 3 degrees retarded timing.
The 65 shot was solid but I couldn't stop myself and I went to a 75 shot on the same 3 degrees of retarded timing.
I had a manifold back fire at this shot however I must note the bottle pressure was over 1200 psi ...... I escaped with only a damaged maf screen.

I have the Cobb and I used the BHR TB Spacer.

Over this last winter I removed the Zex kit and installed a top mount turbo.
The Zex kit is sitting in my garage now, I'm not sure if I'm going to use it as a Cyro spray kit or install it on my neighbours lawn tractor.

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

Or rock turbo and nitrous!!!!


But as far as a common FI spark plug set-up, alot of guys use NGK BUR9EQP (LEADING) NGK RE9BT (TRAILING).
I myself have a relatively new set of Stock plugs in my 8 so I haven't made the switch yet, but when it's needed I will be going with these along with a BHR coil upgrade.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Hahaha .. don't think I'm going to pioneer that one. Besides I'm not sure if it would be worth it.
You would want the nitrous in the sub 4k rpm to help the turbo lag and it's proven that running a 55 shot under the 4k rpm threshold is "iffy" (lol). I guess you could try and 25 shot, or even a staged setup to help throughout the entire rpm range.
The nitrous would help lower the IAT's that's for sure.

I'm still using my stock plugs as well during the tuning process however I have a two brand new packs of the NGK BUR9EQP and the NGK RE9BT .... which oooooh reminds me....

Do you need to add anymore washers as spacers to the BUR9EQP's or do they fit in without any problems?

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

add washers??? I haven't heard of this I assumed they are direct replacements

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Stock plugs will work fine. I have never had an issue. BTW, you username is my last name

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Yeah some of the other NGK plugs are too long and you need to add some extra washers (say from old plugs) to make sure the plug doesn't actually extend into the chamber and get clipped by the apex seal.

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

Nasty are they needed for the NGK BUR9EQP (LEADING) NGK RE9BT (TRAILING) plugs then?

wcs

iTrader: (2)

I'm not positive about the BUR9EQP that's why I was asking

The BUR9EQP is the stock RX7 trailing plug that we are going to use as a leading plug in the RX8
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1993-1...ion/11535.html

The RE9BT is the stock RX8 trailing plug so, no you do not need to worry about adding any spacers.
http://www.racingbeat.com/RX8/Ignition/11549.html

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

haha my bad got confused between you and 9k for a second

Redmond07

Thanks for the replies and help, I was about to spend $70 a pop for four racing plugs.
As far as the Rx-8 goes, it's a stock 2007 6mt. I'm planning on going no higher than a 50 or 55 shot. Currently I do not have a cobb, but I have been using the scan gauge II--which allows me to watch all of the car's vitals, without the ability to change anything. Oh yeah, I went with NOS brand because someone locally was selling a new kit with a bunch of accessories for $200.00, so I had to jump on it.

Thanks again for all of your help, I'm looking forward to getting this installed over the weekend and then having some fun with it.

Redmond07

Nice, Redmond is also my last name...Couldn't think of a cool, rotary-styled user name, so I stuck with my own. Hey, ya never know maybe we're related...

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Cool. Are you Irish? My entire extended family is in NY, I moved to Texas in 92'.

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

$70 a plug... wtf somebody somewhere is making some sick dough off those

Redmond07

Irish and English, though my family lives in Utah and extended is from Chicago. Guess no relation...To bad, woulda been a good connection to be related to a senior member.

Redmond07

Yeah I'd say there's quite a markup, glad they wont be making that money off of me thanks to you guys. Picking up my OEM plugs right now, hoping everything will be installed by the end of the weekend.

Redmond07

So thanks again guys for all of your help, I'm now in the process of actually installing the kit and doing all the electrical work.

I only have two quick questions to ask you guys, the spray jets I have are 35 and a 60 shot, with retarded timing will the 60 shot be okay? And since I'm spraying over 50, is there a mechanical adjustment to retard my timing, or will I need an interface to actually alter my timing maps? I ask about the mechanical adjustment, because on my 3 I could slide the tps sensor up or down about 10 degrees.

Thanks again.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Well CHR is the nitrious godfather so any words of wisdom from him should be well regarded.
What I think Ray is saying is (respectfully) that is you don't know that the RX8 cannnot have its timing retarded manually than sticking to sub 60 shot is very advisable.
I would suggest starting at the 35 shot.
It is easy enough to buy the 55 shot jet settings.
No tuning, no nothing, just a lot of happy spray!!

Redmond07

Will do, I was also thinking of starting off around 35 and seeing how everything handles, then step it up...and I guess I'll cap it at 55. I too have seen, and take to heart, everything that Ray has posted regarding the subject, and that is exactly why I'm asking you guys prior to me doing anything.

In respect to the 8, I hold your opinions much higher than I hold my own right now, So thanks again.

By the way, getting to the fuel injectors is a bigger pain in the *** than I would have thought...aw-well it'll be worth it when I get to finally spray.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

I'm guess that you are trying to get to the fuel line that attaches to the fuel rail?
There is no need to get to the fuel injectors????

Ray is able to snake his arm back under the intake somehow and disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail.

If you are human like the rest of us taking the UIM off is likely what you will have to to do ...
I've done it sooo many times now it's not the big of a deal but the first time can be a bit nerve racking.

Redmond07

Well I wasn't aiming for the injectors themselves, rather the rail, I was hoping there might be a test port or a cap for me to tap into, but from what I'm hearing it's doubtful. And yes I did indeed end up pulling off the upper manifold, and it was also a pain but all in all not horrble.

"Aeromotive #15120 alleviates the need to modify the OEM fuel line." Hey thanks! this is great, I love the idea of being able to take it back to stock if I ever need to.

Redmond07

So would you recommend not tapping the fuel rail? I'm not as much considered about warranty issues, because I do have a spare rail being shipped to me. Are there possible issues with fuel pressure or injectors not getting the proper amount of fuel they need if I tap it?