OD's engine build
05-10-2011, 08:23 AM
#134
Patience guys.
I have a LOT coming.
One thing i can say now. I know its subjective, but after having done installs and driving many different Rx8's--this is the smoothest engine I have ever felt. Seriously. It was very apparate from the start. Damn good balancing job? Dont know but I sure like it.
You know video may be easier for me to do--!
Hopefully tonight.
Team--trying to instruct me in computer use may be a real challange
I have a LOT coming.
One thing i can say now. I know its subjective, but after having done installs and driving many different Rx8's--this is the smoothest engine I have ever felt. Seriously. It was very apparate from the start. Damn good balancing job? Dont know but I sure like it.
You know video may be easier for me to do--!
Hopefully tonight.
Team--trying to instruct me in computer use may be a real challange
05-12-2011, 08:33 PM
#139
try again...............
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1305250532
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1305250532
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1305250532
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1305250532
ok this is better?
OD
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1305250532
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1305250532
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1305250532
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1305250532
ok this is better?
OD
Last edited by olddragger; 05-12-2011 at 08:38 PM.
05-13-2011, 08:27 AM
#144
Shhhhhh---stash for cash the wife doesnt know about!!!
No really the red cap thing next to the oil cooler is my upgraded a/w coolant pump. The oridginal pump from Pettit fits almost immediately behind their plastic coolant tank. When I upgraded to the aluminin moroso tank I also move the pump to this location. Worked out great.
The 1st cooler is my a/w coolant cooler-- its much different than Pettits oridginal. Pettits worked well, very well, but there is a lot of plumbing with them.
The cooler that is almost flat?--thats my secondary radiator. Believe it or not that position works out the best for me. The relief openings in the belly pan are left open and air flow through that cooler is good--without being too good.
These 2 coolers are a very open fin type and air flow through them is excellant.
NOTICE HOW I CUT THE FRONT SUPPORT BEAM.
This ended up being a true cold air scoop for my inside the engine bay air filter. I also cut open the grill diamond shaped things in the top two rows and that feeds a steady stream of coll ambient air directly to the air filter. I also opened the space inside the front mazda badge for more ventilation. Very Stealt.
Information for turbo guys with large a/a intercoolers that may be of some use?
The front support beam is actually two beams in one. There is an inside steel plate that is runs down the middle of the beam all the way across. You can cut this beam in half (laterally) without messing it up. That will give you 3-4 inches of more space to play with. Cut it from the top or the bottom. Youre welcome
I didnt get a picture of it but I now have capped holes inbetween the leading and trailing sparkplugs----hehehe.
I dont know how Cam does it but my oil pressures are "different" than even with my previous mazmart bypass valve install. I will try to explain this further later. Its better to me.Maybe he uses a different oil pump? I know he does some oil passage work. Where and what--i dont know.
Its is so cool to have an engine that is difficult to crank. With the taller apex seals an engine is a little harder to start for the 1st few hundred miles.
THIS ENGINE IS SMOOTH. Maybe I have said this before--I dont remember. But the damn thing is smooth. I have driven and set behind many a rotary powered car, and this engine is the smoothest one I have ever set behind. Juan, who has the same engine build as this one, reports the same thing. I also have poly filled Motor mounts so if their was any roughness I would feel it. Cam did balance and blueprint the engine but I wasnt expecting to be like this.
VERY NICE.
No I will not increased my redline of 7.5--8K -- although Cam says I can take it to 8.5K all day.
Notice also the Cribbing I built to put the car on while I worked on it. Its easy to do and IT WILL NOT FAIL. I will not get under a car comfortably with just jack stands anymore. Sometimes you have too, but I dont like it. Plus the cribbing can go as high as you want it. Makes working under the car a LOT easier.l
More to come as i dont have a pic of the finished engine bay etc
No really the red cap thing next to the oil cooler is my upgraded a/w coolant pump. The oridginal pump from Pettit fits almost immediately behind their plastic coolant tank. When I upgraded to the aluminin moroso tank I also move the pump to this location. Worked out great.
The 1st cooler is my a/w coolant cooler-- its much different than Pettits oridginal. Pettits worked well, very well, but there is a lot of plumbing with them.
The cooler that is almost flat?--thats my secondary radiator. Believe it or not that position works out the best for me. The relief openings in the belly pan are left open and air flow through that cooler is good--without being too good.
These 2 coolers are a very open fin type and air flow through them is excellant.
NOTICE HOW I CUT THE FRONT SUPPORT BEAM.
This ended up being a true cold air scoop for my inside the engine bay air filter. I also cut open the grill diamond shaped things in the top two rows and that feeds a steady stream of coll ambient air directly to the air filter. I also opened the space inside the front mazda badge for more ventilation. Very Stealt.
Information for turbo guys with large a/a intercoolers that may be of some use?
The front support beam is actually two beams in one. There is an inside steel plate that is runs down the middle of the beam all the way across. You can cut this beam in half (laterally) without messing it up. That will give you 3-4 inches of more space to play with. Cut it from the top or the bottom. Youre welcome
I didnt get a picture of it but I now have capped holes inbetween the leading and trailing sparkplugs----hehehe.
I dont know how Cam does it but my oil pressures are "different" than even with my previous mazmart bypass valve install. I will try to explain this further later. Its better to me.Maybe he uses a different oil pump? I know he does some oil passage work. Where and what--i dont know.
Its is so cool to have an engine that is difficult to crank. With the taller apex seals an engine is a little harder to start for the 1st few hundred miles.
THIS ENGINE IS SMOOTH. Maybe I have said this before--I dont remember. But the damn thing is smooth. I have driven and set behind many a rotary powered car, and this engine is the smoothest one I have ever set behind. Juan, who has the same engine build as this one, reports the same thing. I also have poly filled Motor mounts so if their was any roughness I would feel it. Cam did balance and blueprint the engine but I wasnt expecting to be like this.
VERY NICE.
No I will not increased my redline of 7.5--8K -- although Cam says I can take it to 8.5K all day.
Notice also the Cribbing I built to put the car on while I worked on it. Its easy to do and IT WILL NOT FAIL. I will not get under a car comfortably with just jack stands anymore. Sometimes you have too, but I dont like it. Plus the cribbing can go as high as you want it. Makes working under the car a LOT easier.l
More to come as i dont have a pic of the finished engine bay etc
05-14-2011, 09:00 AM
#150
Registered
You will find quantifyable gains by making any entirely closed airbox beginning at the front of the car (very large) and then to and headed to and enclosing the air filter. This is definitely a fabricating effort. Big measureable gains will come at speed and we've recorded higher air flow in our ECU at Daytona on the highbank. An airbox pressure sensor would easily show you this. I highly recommend a paper element and not the metal mesh style. You MAY lose 1 (or two with your higher hp sc) but the filtration is superior. Superior. Superior. AEM makes one that works very well. The rotary retains any injested yucky stuff and harder debris like sand actually sand blasts the aluminum rotor housings where it enters into the combustion event. Ask me how I know this twice. At Daytona and homestead when your following others closely they pick up sand and the K&N style is not as good at filtration. Not many people know this but the SpeedSource built 3 rotor Rolex cars use................a stock rx-8 paper air filter. Truth.
Regardless of filter, make a larger gathering scoop to our airbox opening. You WILL benefit
Regardless of filter, make a larger gathering scoop to our airbox opening. You WILL benefit