Oh well, here comes another turbo...
#278
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by romycha1
What about your wastegate? How is that set up?
First I get annoyed then pissed wit something, then I go and change things.
It is working now.
I pulled off all the hoses, took the regulator apart and cleaned it, put it together and put it back on leaving out the T valve that has too hard of a spring in it.
Holds pressure at 6 PSI well, but if I do an extra click toward more (7-8), It starts spiking up.
6 PSI will be OK for now, I guess but I need to get a new (Better) regulator.
#279
Nope
iTrader: (9)
I totally just stumbled across this thread and.....WOW. You are awesome. You don't play around, you just do it!
And the more I think about this idea, I think I could totally rock it for under $4k (not to steal anything from you tho). I think it would be cheaper than a convetional exhaust manifold-mounted turbo, mainly because the cost of a custom manifold, downpipe and uppipe, and a few other things you avoided.
I read all the pages but I must have missed what you're doing with your oil system? Originally you said you were putting a resivoir in your trunk so the turbo has it's own self-contained oil system- did you do that or just tap off the enigne oil?
And how is your filter doing just sitting out there like that? I was thinking I would make a pipe from the the turbo air inlet to do a soft 90-degree wrap so the intake is facing the oncoming air and use the Umnitza carbon fiber box as a cover for the filter.
I did some quick E-Bay shopping and have found some really nice deal. I had no idea you could get a turbo for that cheap!
I might do this, I dunno. I need to save and plan it out more, first.
Dave
And the more I think about this idea, I think I could totally rock it for under $4k (not to steal anything from you tho). I think it would be cheaper than a convetional exhaust manifold-mounted turbo, mainly because the cost of a custom manifold, downpipe and uppipe, and a few other things you avoided.
I read all the pages but I must have missed what you're doing with your oil system? Originally you said you were putting a resivoir in your trunk so the turbo has it's own self-contained oil system- did you do that or just tap off the enigne oil?
And how is your filter doing just sitting out there like that? I was thinking I would make a pipe from the the turbo air inlet to do a soft 90-degree wrap so the intake is facing the oncoming air and use the Umnitza carbon fiber box as a cover for the filter.
I did some quick E-Bay shopping and have found some really nice deal. I had no idea you could get a turbo for that cheap!
I might do this, I dunno. I need to save and plan it out more, first.
Dave
#280
RotoRocks Powered
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by chickenwafer
I totally just stumbled across this thread and.....WOW. You are awesome. You don't play around, you just do it!
And the more I think about this idea, I think I could totally rock it for under $4k (not to steal anything from you tho). I think it would be cheaper than a convetional exhaust manifold-mounted turbo, mainly because the cost of a custom manifold, downpipe and uppipe, and a few other things you avoided.
I read all the pages but I must have missed what you're doing with your oil system? Originally you said you were putting a resivoir in your trunk so the turbo has it's own self-contained oil system- did you do that or just tap off the enigne oil?
And how is your filter doing just sitting out there like that? I was thinking I would make a pipe from the the turbo air inlet to do a soft 90-degree wrap so the intake is facing the oncoming air and use the Umnitza carbon fiber box as a cover for the filter.
I did some quick E-Bay shopping and have found some really nice deal. I had no idea you could get a turbo for that cheap!
I might do this, I dunno. I need to save and plan it out more, first.
Dave
And the more I think about this idea, I think I could totally rock it for under $4k (not to steal anything from you tho). I think it would be cheaper than a convetional exhaust manifold-mounted turbo, mainly because the cost of a custom manifold, downpipe and uppipe, and a few other things you avoided.
I read all the pages but I must have missed what you're doing with your oil system? Originally you said you were putting a resivoir in your trunk so the turbo has it's own self-contained oil system- did you do that or just tap off the enigne oil?
And how is your filter doing just sitting out there like that? I was thinking I would make a pipe from the the turbo air inlet to do a soft 90-degree wrap so the intake is facing the oncoming air and use the Umnitza carbon fiber box as a cover for the filter.
I did some quick E-Bay shopping and have found some really nice deal. I had no idea you could get a turbo for that cheap!
I might do this, I dunno. I need to save and plan it out more, first.
Dave
Oil: I put a plate and run a 1/4" copper line back to the turbo, and then use a pump to drain the oil and push back into the engine.
I did this because I like the cooling the oil gets while going back and forth through all the copper lines.
Turbo gets it's oil nice and cold, and by the time it reaches the engine again, it is much colder than when it left it.
I can barely touch the oil feed line when it is out of the engine, and I can easily touch and hold my hand on the oil return line after a hard drive without risking a burn.
Yes you can definitely get it to work within that budget, but prepare to sink more as you start working out the bugs.
I had to rework my pressure tubing like 3 times before I figured it out. (That cost me $$$)
Same with the exhaust.
Speaking of which: If you'd like I can fab the pressure pipe, turbo mount and single exhaust with the resonator piece for you. I have it figured pretty much to the point where it can't get any better.
All the rest you can just get quality stuff from STS (Universal Kit) or on ebay.
PM me If interested.
#281
RotoRocks Powered
Thread Starter
Update:
ever since I get the car working after blowing the cat and flooding, I just couldn't get it to a decent tune.
I seemed like no matter what I did, the tune just wouldn't hold. The AF would bounce, the injectors would max out at 5PSI and 7-8K RPM...
Nightmare...
Anyway, today I was driving on the Highway to work, while watching the laptop Load gauge and suddenly it struck me... Holy ****, even at the constant RPM the load reading fluctuates like 10 - 15 measuring units 5 times per second in vacuum, and in boost it would constantly bounce from like 3-8 PSI and back.
I thought WTF? off course the tune won't work in such condition. There is no clear load reading.
I was taking the reading from one of the nipple on the manifold (Passenger side) with a very short stretch of line directly back to the Int-X. (I changed it to read from that location when the car wasn't working, as I looked for any possible solution back then, and thought that reading it there may give a clearer signal) how can it be that the reading is so effed up?
But whatever it might be, it is too sensitive there.
i stopped at the parts store on the way to work, got some vac hose, and reconnected it to the under the TB nipple (like I had it before) and what do you know!!!
Hesitations are gone, the engine became as smooth as baby's bottom, and is holding nicely all the way to the red-line with no problems.
all I gotta do now is to trim a little fuel here and there, as it is getting too fat in some areas, and that's it.
I am going to start a new thread on this topic to see if anyone else had experienced similar misreadings...
ever since I get the car working after blowing the cat and flooding, I just couldn't get it to a decent tune.
I seemed like no matter what I did, the tune just wouldn't hold. The AF would bounce, the injectors would max out at 5PSI and 7-8K RPM...
Nightmare...
Anyway, today I was driving on the Highway to work, while watching the laptop Load gauge and suddenly it struck me... Holy ****, even at the constant RPM the load reading fluctuates like 10 - 15 measuring units 5 times per second in vacuum, and in boost it would constantly bounce from like 3-8 PSI and back.
I thought WTF? off course the tune won't work in such condition. There is no clear load reading.
I was taking the reading from one of the nipple on the manifold (Passenger side) with a very short stretch of line directly back to the Int-X. (I changed it to read from that location when the car wasn't working, as I looked for any possible solution back then, and thought that reading it there may give a clearer signal) how can it be that the reading is so effed up?
But whatever it might be, it is too sensitive there.
i stopped at the parts store on the way to work, got some vac hose, and reconnected it to the under the TB nipple (like I had it before) and what do you know!!!
Hesitations are gone, the engine became as smooth as baby's bottom, and is holding nicely all the way to the red-line with no problems.
all I gotta do now is to trim a little fuel here and there, as it is getting too fat in some areas, and that's it.
I am going to start a new thread on this topic to see if anyone else had experienced similar misreadings...
Last edited by rotorocks; 03-02-2007 at 10:39 AM.
#282
I don't think you'll find anyone with problems like that - because the int-x install video specifically tells you to route the hose to the TB and not the side of the engine.
I have my boost controller and boost gauge reading from the side of the engine though. No problems.
didn't want too many hoses routed from one spot.
I have my boost controller and boost gauge reading from the side of the engine though. No problems.
didn't want too many hoses routed from one spot.
#285
RotoRocks Powered
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by romycha1
That's tight that everything is running good. Have you dyno'd it yet, or checked your gas mileage?
I get around 500 from the tank of gas when driving aggressively, and more if stay outta boost.
Last dyno I pulled I was getting 470 WHP at 5PSI
Seriously though, I just got it to finally work OK today (like in This Morning).
#286
Banned
iTrader: (3)
500 from a tank?!? Is that a typo? That is 250% over my economy without the turbo!
In any even, SQL is right - NEVER use those nipples to measure anything. They are too close to the engine, so they see the reversion pulses during intake and they also get bonky when the other ports open.
Are you running a restrictor in the hose as well?
In any even, SQL is right - NEVER use those nipples to measure anything. They are too close to the engine, so they see the reversion pulses during intake and they also get bonky when the other ports open.
Are you running a restrictor in the hose as well?
#289
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
500 from a tank?!? Is that a typo? That is 250% over my economy without the turbo!
In any even, SQL is right - NEVER use those nipples to measure anything. They are too close to the engine, so they see the reversion pulses during intake and they also get bonky when the other ports open.
Are you running a restrictor in the hose as well?
In any even, SQL is right - NEVER use those nipples to measure anything. They are too close to the engine, so they see the reversion pulses during intake and they also get bonky when the other ports open.
Are you running a restrictor in the hose as well?
Nope, No restrictor on the line.
WTF those nipples are there for? I have my boost gauge and BOV hooked to one of them, and it seems to work perfectly well. Boost gauge does have a restrictor in the line though.
#291
Banned
iTrader: (3)
Heh!
My connection is slow today, so I'm not waiting for graphics to load before I hit "reply".
Plus I'm just plain tired - I've been out late trying to completely master my boost curve with the E-01. Burned up an entire tank of gas last night.
There is always an opportunity to make fun of me! Just watch Easy_E1, he's good at it!
I'm not sure what those nipples are for, but I know that Mazda has issued instructions in the past to utilize them in some test procedures. I guess they are just for diagnostic purposes.
I look at them as another failure point - one more place to develop a vacuum leak.
My connection is slow today, so I'm not waiting for graphics to load before I hit "reply".
Plus I'm just plain tired - I've been out late trying to completely master my boost curve with the E-01. Burned up an entire tank of gas last night.
There is always an opportunity to make fun of me! Just watch Easy_E1, he's good at it!
I'm not sure what those nipples are for, but I know that Mazda has issued instructions in the past to utilize them in some test procedures. I guess they are just for diagnostic purposes.
I look at them as another failure point - one more place to develop a vacuum leak.
#293
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by R-Styles
@rotorocks
Do you drive the "matrix mode"?
Do you drive the "matrix mode"?
I was working on a matrix map, but had some issues a month ago that set me back, and I lost that tune.
Since then I was just trying to get the "Normal" mode to work.
Actually I spent about an hour during my lunch driving back and forth tuning out stuff, so at this point I think I got the best tune I ever had on it. (well except for the fact that my ignition under boost is pulled way back, and I don't run more than 6PSI.
I will be testing the tune as it is for a few days, and then raise the boost to about 8.
After that, I'll start making the Matrix Map, and then once it is all done, I was thinking of going over to Petitte and beg Cam to give me a break on dyno tuning to squeeze some HP out of it.
#295
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Thread Starter
I pretty much use SQL101 Ignition Map Except since I couldn't get a handle on the boost, I had pulled the t_MAP back even further.
Currently my timing is like this.
Sorry, I don't have the laptop to pull the images from, just plotting it by memory
Any suggestions on how to make it better are appreciated
Currently my timing is like this.
Sorry, I don't have the laptop to pull the images from, just plotting it by memory
Any suggestions on how to make it better are appreciated